County Down Ireland · Co. Down · Kilclief Save · Share
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KILCLIEF
CO. DOWN · IE

Kilclief
Cill Chléithe

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 06 / 06
Cill Chléithe · Co. Down

A castle, a strand, and a road to somewhere else. That is the whole village.

Kilclief is a hamlet on the Strangford-to-Ardglass road, in the Lecale corner of County Down where the land tips into the Irish Sea. A castle, a Church of Ireland parish church from 1839, a strand under the castle, a GAA pitch, and the houses of the parish that takes its name from the place. Two hundred and fifty people, give or take. That's the village.

What brings you here is the castle. Kilclief Castle is a four-storey tower-house built around 1413 by John Sely, then bishop of Down, and it is the earliest of its kind in the county — the one archaeologists use to date all the others. The first floor is vaulted in stone. Two turrets jut from the front, one holding a spiral stair, the other a stack of garderobes, and a high arch joins them at roof level with a murder-hole punched through for dropping things on people you did not want to see. The bishop lived in it with a married woman named Lettice Savage and was eventually thrown out of the see for it, in 1443. The tower outlasted him by nearly six centuries.

Make it a stop, not a base. There is nothing to eat in Kilclief and nothing to drink. Park at the castle, walk down to the strand, swim if the tide is in, climb the tower if the door is unlocked, and drive on. Strangford is three kilometres back the way you came; Ardglass is fifteen minutes the other direction. Both have pubs. Kilclief has a churchyard and a view of the Irish Sea.

Population
~250
Walk score
Castle, strand and a churchyard — twenty minutes end to end
Founded
Church site granted to Down Abbey in 1183; castle c. 1413
Coords
54.3306° N, 5.5447° W
01 / 06

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 06

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

How a tower-house gets you sacked

Bishop Sely and the lady

John Sely was Bishop of Down from 1429 to 1443. He built the tower at Kilclief either just before he became bishop or just after, around 1413, which makes it the oldest dated tower-house in the county. He then proceeded to live in it with Lettice Whailey Savage, the wife of a local lord, which the church noticed. He was ejected from the bishopric in 1443. The tower remained. So, presumably, did Lettice.

A roof detail with a job

The murder hole

The two turrets on the front of the castle — the spiral-stair one to the south-east, the garderobe stack to the north-east — are joined at roof level by a tall machicolation arch. There is a drop-hole punched through it directly above the front door. The point was simple: if someone you did not invite reached the threshold, you dropped something heavy or hot on them from four storeys up. Many tower-houses in Lecale have machicolations. Kilclief's came first.

Church of wattle

Cill Cléithe

The Irish name means 'church of wattle' — a building of woven rods and daub, of the kind that stood here in the early Christian period long before there was any thought of a tower. The site was granted to the Benedictine Abbey of St Patrick of Down by Bishop Malachy III in 1183. The present small Church of Ireland church on the same site dates from 1839. Three churches deep, on the same plot, on the road to Ardglass.

03 / 06

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

The castle and the strand Park at the castle, walk through the gate when it is open, climb to the roof for the view down the Irish Sea, then drop down to the beach. Sand at the north end, rock at the south, seals occasionally on the rocks at low tide. No toilets, no lifeguard, no cafe. Bring everything.
1 km loopdistance
30–45 mintime
Kilclief to Ballyhornan South on the Ardglass road, past Benderg Bay and Gunn's Island offshore. Quiet road with views to the right the whole way. Turn back at Ballyhornan or push on toward Ardglass for another half hour.
6 km return along the coast roaddistance
1.5 hourstime
Lecale Way (Strangford section) Kilclief sits on the Lecale Way, the long-distance coastal trail that runs Strangford to Newcastle. The Strangford-to-Ardglass leg passes through. Pick it up at the castle and walk either direction; the path is mostly coast road with field sections.
Variabledistance
time
04 / 06

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

Castle reopens for the season, strand is empty, the wind off Strangford Lough is sharp but the light is the best of the year.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

The car park fills by mid-morning on a hot day. Come early or come on a weekday. Sea swimmers know about this beach now.

◐ Mind yourself
Autumn
Sep–Oct

Quiet again. Storms blowing in across the mouth of the lough. The castle still open most weekends.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

The castle is usually shut. There is nothing to eat or drink for three kilometres. Bring a flask and a coat that means it.

◐ Mind yourself
05 / 06

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Expecting a village

Kilclief is a hamlet of about 250 people with a castle and a strand. There is no pub, no shop, no chipper. If you arrive hungry, you will be hungry until Strangford or Ardglass.

×
Driving past the castle in a hurry

Half the cars on this road are headed to Ardglass for golf or fish, and they slow for the castle without stopping. Stop. It is the oldest tower-house in the county. The door is sometimes open. The roof has the view.

×
Swimming alone at low tide

No lifeguard, rocks on one side, a serious tide running through Strangford Narrows just to the north. The beach is safe enough on a calm day at high water. It is not safe enough to be stupid on.

+

Getting there.

By car

From Strangford take the A2 south toward Ardglass; Kilclief is 3 km / 5 minutes on the right, castle visible from the road. From Belfast, allow about an hour via the A20 down the Ards Peninsula and the Strangford–Portaferry car ferry.

By bus

Translink Ulsterbus 16E runs Downpatrick–Strangford via Kilclief a handful of times a day. Limited Sunday service. Check current timetable.

By train

No train. The line from Belfast stops at Downpatrick (heritage railway only) and Newry. Nearest mainline station is Belfast Lanyon Place.

By air

Belfast City (BHD) is 50 km / 1 hour. Belfast International (BFS) is 80 km / 1h 15m. Dublin is 2h 30m.