County Down Ireland · Co. Down · Killinchy Save · Share
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KILLINCHY
CO. DOWN · IE

Killinchy
Cill Dhuinsí

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 07 / 07
Cill Dhuinsí · Co. Down

A hill above Strangford Lough, a ruined tower on a causeway, and a restaurant people drive an hour for.

Killinchy is a crossroads village on a hill above the western shore of Strangford Lough. There is a church at the top, a primary school, a petrol station, and not much else in the village itself. The reason to come is two miles east — down the Whiterock Road to a stone causeway that runs out across the mudflats to Sketrick Island.

On Sketrick you get the ruin of a 15th-century tower house at the north end and a restaurant called Daft Eddy's at the south end. The castle stood mostly intact until a storm in 1896 knocked half of it down. The restaurant has been run by the same family for over twenty-five years and is the reason people in Belfast know where Killinchy is at all. The view from the deck is the lough and a thousand little drumlin islands and the Mournes in the distance on a clear day.

Stay for the Ulster-Scots story too. The Presbyterian congregation here dates to 1630, when John Livingstone arrived from Scotland and started preaching. Four years later the bishops silenced him. He sailed for America from Groomsport on the Eagle Wing in 1636 and the Atlantic sent him back. The meeting house went up in 1714 and was rebuilt on the same ground in 1739 — that cruciform building is what you see today, and the graveyard reads like a roll-call of County Down Presbyterianism.

Population
539 (2011 census)
Walk score
Crossroads, church, and a hill down to the lough
Founded
Presbyterian congregation gathered 1630
Coords
54.4842° N, 5.6386° W
01 / 07

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 07

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Daft Eddy's Bar & restaurant on Sketrick Island €€ The lough-side draw. Across the causeway, owned and run by the Stronge family for the guts of three decades. Local seafood, the deck for sun, the bar for wind. Book ahead at weekends or you'll be turned away.
Balloo House Bistro & grill, 1 Comber Road €€ Old coaching-inn building two miles up the road toward Comber. Sweeney family since 2004. Downstairs bistro for the everyday menu, Overwood grill upstairs at weekends for dry-aged steaks over wood fire. Long-standing reputation, holds it.
The Old Schoolhouse Inn Restaurant with rooms, Castle Espie Road €€€ Five minutes out of Comber on the way down to Castle Espie — close enough that locals here count it as a Killinchy option. Chef Will Brown came home from London in 2012 and turned it into a proper destination. Ten rooms upstairs, each named after a US president. Book it for an anniversary, not a Tuesday.
03 / 07

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

The tower that fell in a storm

Sketrick

The tower house on Sketrick Island is a 15th-century build — the Annals of the Four Masters record its capture in 1470. Four storeys originally, with a boat bay cut into the base and a stone passage that ran under the bawn wall to a fresh-water spring. It stood mostly intact for four centuries and then half of it came down in a single storm in 1896. The spring passage was rediscovered in 1957 when somebody crawled into the right gap. You can walk around the ruin for nothing; the gulls and the lough do the rest of the talking.

The smuggler the restaurant is named for

Daft Eddy

The story W. G. Lyttle put down in a Victorian penny serial: Eddy was the illegitimate son of one of the Londonderry family across the lough, left on a doorstep on Mahee Island in 1842 and reared by a family called White for £50 a year. He grew up to run brandy and tobacco for the Strangford smugglers in a lugger that could thread the islands at night while the revenue cutters stayed wide. The locals called him daft because he was always out after dark with a lantern — if anyone asked what the light was, the answer was "It's only Daft Eddy". He died in a shoot-out in Newtownards and was buried in Tullynakill graveyard under a stone that said only "To Eddy". The restaurant has carried the name for decades and the lough outside the window does exactly what it did then.

Killinchy 1630–1637

John Livingstone

Livingstone came over from Scotland in 1630 and gathered a Presbyterian congregation at Killinchy. By 1634 the Church of Ireland bishops had silenced him for refusing to conform. In September 1636 he sailed for America with three other ministers on the Eagle Wing, leaving Groomsport across the lough — the first organised emigration of Ulster Presbyterians. Atlantic storms drove them back. Livingstone went on to a long ministry in Scotland and the Netherlands. Michael Bruce, his Killinchy successor in spirit, kept the congregation alive through the 1641 rebellion and the Cromwellian settlement, and is the reason the church on the hill exists at all.

Why the lough looks the way it does

The drowned drumlins

Strangford Lough is a flooded valley of drumlins — the small egg-shaped hills the last ice age left behind. When the sea came in, the tops became islands and the dips became channels. Sketrick is one of those drumlins. So is every little wooded hump you can see from the causeway. There are over seventy of them. At low tide some of them stop being islands. At high tide some of the causeways disappear. The map you have is wrong in a small way twice a day.

04 / 07

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Sketrick Island & causeway Park near the causeway, walk across, round the ruin, back. Time it for high tide if you want the water lapping the road, low tide if you want to see the mud and the curlews working it.
1.5 km loopdistance
30 mintime
Whiterock to the yacht club shore From the SLYC end of Whiterock Bay along the shore path. Sails coming and going on a Saturday. A bench halfway looking across at Killyleagh.
2 km returndistance
40 mintime
Delamont Country Park (10 min south) Not in Killinchy but the obvious walking destination from here. 200 acres on the lough shore between Killinchy and Killyleagh. Pay-and-display car park. The Strangford Stone megalith at the south end is a 1999 build, not ancient — knowing that does not spoil it.
Up to 7 km of waymarked trailsdistance
1–3 hourstime
05 / 07

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

Lough wakes up. Brent geese still around in early March, then the sailing season starts. Daft Eddy's deck open on a good day.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

The deck at Sketrick is the whole point. Book the restaurant a week ahead for weekends.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep–Oct

Big light over the lough, the trees on the drumlins turning. Fewer boats, quieter restaurant.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

Storms come in from the south-east and the causeway gets weather. The village itself goes quiet. Daft Eddy's still opens — check the days.

◐ Mind yourself
06 / 07

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Driving down expecting a village to wander

Killinchy is a crossroads with a church. The walking and the eating are out at the lough, two miles east. Go straight there.

×
Swimming at Whiterock

Strangford Lough has the second-strongest tidal current in Europe at the Narrows. Up here is calmer but cold and shipping-busy. Sail it, kayak it with someone who knows it, don't swim it casually.

×
The Strangford Stone as ancient monument

It is a 10-metre megalith at Delamont, raised in 1999 for the millennium. Impressive object. Not a Neolithic site, despite looking like one.

×
Looking for live music in Killinchy

There is none to speak of. The village pub trade is thin. For a session, head down to Killyleagh or out to Comber.

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Getting there.

By car

Belfast to Killinchy is about 17 miles, 30 minutes, on the A22 via Comber. Then the Whiterock Road two miles east for Sketrick.

By bus

Translink Ulsterbus 14 runs Belfast–Killyleagh via Comber and Killinchy several times a day. Hourly-ish on weekdays, thinner at weekends.

By train

No rail. Nearest stations are Belfast — then bus or car.

By air

Belfast City (BHD) is 40 minutes by car. Belfast International (BFS) is an hour.