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RATHFRILAND
CO. DOWN · IE

Rathfriland
Ráth Fraoileann

The Mourne, Gullion & Ring of Gullion
STOP 06 / 06
Ráth Fraoileann · Co. Down

A hilltop market town with the Brontë family's first parish two miles down the road.

Rathfriland sits on top of a steep drumlin in south Down, eight miles north-east of Newry and seven south of Banbridge. The town is built around a Diamond at the summit — a small square that was the cattle market into the twentieth century — with three short streets running down the hillside off it. On a clear day the Mournes are laid out south of you and Slieve Croob lifts up to the north. The road in from any direction is uphill.

What pulls visitors onto the hill is not the hill itself. Two miles south-west, in the parish of Drumballyroney, Patrick Brontë was born in March 1777 in a two-roomed cottage at Emdale — son of Hugh Brunty, the local linen weaver, and Eleanor McClory. Patrick taught at Glascar school down the road, preached his first sermon at Drumballyroney Church, and left for Cambridge in 1802. He never came home. His three daughters in Yorkshire wrote the books that turned the family name into an industry. The church and schoolhouse where he preached and taught is now the Brontë Homeland Interpretative Centre, and a signed driving trail joins up the cottage, the school, the church and the family graves.

Before any of that, this was Magennis country. The Gaelic lords of Iveagh ran south Down from a tower-house on the Rathfriland hill from the late 1500s. The 1641 rising and the Confederate Wars that followed broke them — the castle was reduced to rubble, the lands granted to William Hawkins of London after the Restoration, and the stones of the keep ended up in the inns and houses of the new plantation town. The site on the summit is a field now; the foundations are still under it.

Don't come for a big day out. Rathfriland is a working market town with a literary half-day attached. Do the Brontë drive in the morning, walk up to the Diamond for lunch, look at the view of the Mournes and push on. The two obvious follow-ons are Banbridge for the shops and Newry for the bed.

Population
~2,500
Walk score
Hilltop Diamond at the top, three streets down the sides — twenty minutes end to end
Coords
54.2378° N, 6.1622° W
01 / 06

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 06

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

The Drumballyroney schoolmaster who fathered three novelists

Patrick Brontë

Patrick Brontë — born Patrick Brunty on 17 March 1777 in a two-roomed cottage at Emdale in the parish of Drumballyroney — was the eldest of ten children of Hugh Brunty, a Boyne-valley man working the lime kilns and the linen trade in south Down, and Eleanor McClory of Drumballyroney. Patrick taught at the Glascar Presbyterian school down the road as a teenager, then at the Drumballyroney parish school beside the church. He preached his first sermon in Drumballyroney Church on Church Hill Road. He sailed for St John's College, Cambridge, in 1802, anglicised the family name to Brontë, took Anglican orders, and ended up perpetual curate of Haworth in Yorkshire. His daughters — Charlotte, Emily and Anne — wrote Jane Eyre, Wuthering Heights and The Tenant of Wildfell Hall. The County Down half of the story stayed in County Down. The church, the schoolhouse and the family graveyard are still there, restored.

A Gaelic tower-house on the hilltop, taken down in the 1640s

The Magennis castle

The Magennises were the Gaelic lords of Iveagh, the great medieval lordship that covered most of south Down. They built a tower-house on the summit of the Rathfriland hill in the late sixteenth century — four storeys, stone-vaulted ground floor against fire, the seat of the chief. Art Roe Magennis was created Viscount Magennis of Iveagh by James I in 1623, but a generation later the family threw in with the 1641 rising and the Confederate cause. The Cromwellian and Restoration settlements broke them. The castle was battered down; the lands were granted to Alderman William Hawkins of London in 1668; Hawkins took the surviving stones and built them into the new town below. What is on the hill now is a field with foundations under it and a view that explains why anyone put a castle there in the first place.

A cattle market at the top of a 506-foot hill

The Diamond and the Friday market

Rathfriland was a planted market town from the 1660s, when Hawkins started laying out a square at the summit and streets running off it. The Friday cattle and butter market on the Diamond ran into the twentieth century — Bassett's Guide and Directory to County Down listed it in the 1880s as one of the substantial inland markets of south Down. The market shut decades ago, the cattle are sold at marts down off the hill, and the Diamond is a parking square with a war memorial on it. The shape of the place is the market town it was; the trade is gone.

Why the castle was here

The view from the top

From the top of the Rathfriland hill on a clear day you can see the Mournes lined up to the south, the rough back of Slieve Croob lifting north over the Dromara Hills, and the drumlin country rolling away east toward Strangford and west toward Slieve Gullion. It is not the highest hill in south Down — Slieve Croob is twice the height and the Mournes are higher again — but it is the one that sees everything. The Magennises did not pick it by accident, and nor did the planters who replaced them.

03 / 06

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

The Brontë Homeland Drive Signed from Rathfriland and Drumballyroney. Starts at the Drumballyroney Church and Schoolhouse — now the interpretative centre — and loops out to the birthplace cottage ruin at Emdale, the Glascar Presbyterian school where Patrick first taught, and the family graveyard. Park at the church; walk the church and schoolhouse yard; drive the rest. Get the leaflet from the centre or download it before you come, because the country roads are quiet and the signs are easy to miss.
16 km looped driving traildistance
2–3 hours with stopstime
Up to the Diamond Park at the bottom of any of the three streets and walk up. The view from the Diamond takes in the Mournes and Slieve Croob in one turn of the head. The war memorial in the centre and the Georgian shopfronts running down John Street give you the shape of the planted market town in five minutes.
500 m, any approachdistance
15 mintime
Slieve Croob, fifteen minutes north Drive north out of Rathfriland to the Dromara Hills and the start point at Pass Loaning above Finnis. The summit at 534 m is a stone cairn with — on a clear day — six counties laid out under you. The walk is short and steep rather than long. Boots, not trainers; weather changes quickly up there.
4 km returndistance
1.5–2 hourstime
04 / 06

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

St Patrick's Day weekend is the date — Patrick Brontë was born 17 March and the interpretative centre tends to mark it. The Brontë drive lanes are at their best with hedgerows greening up.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

Long evenings, the view from the Diamond is at its widest, and the drive south to the Mournes opens out for the day.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep–Oct

The drumlin country turns colour and the south Down lanes are quiet. The interpretative centre's seasonal hours start to close in; check before you drive out.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

Short days, the centre is on reduced winter hours or shut by arrangement, and the hill catches the wind from every direction. Phone ahead.

◐ Mind yourself
05 / 06

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Looking for the castle

There is no castle to look at. The Magennis tower was battered down in the 1640s and the stones were cannibalised into the town below. The summit is a field with foundations under it and a good view. Read the story; don't expect a ruin.

×
Treating Rathfriland as a full day on its own

It is a small market town with a literary half-day attached. Pair the Brontë drive with Banbridge for lunch and shops, or with Newry for the bed. A full day in Rathfriland on its own is a slow day.

×
Turning up at Drumballyroney without checking the centre's hours

The Brontë Homeland Interpretative Centre is run on seasonal and limited hours and is often opened by arrangement for groups outside the main season. The church and the graveyard are accessible any time; the centre itself is not. Phone or check Discover Northern Ireland before you drive out.

×
Driving the Brontë lanes in something big

The signed loop runs on single-track country roads with passing places and tractor traffic. A small car is the right car. A people-carrier reversing into a hedge is the wrong one.

+

Getting there.

By car

Newry to Rathfriland is about 20 minutes north-east via the B7 and B25 (13 km). Banbridge is about 15 minutes north on the B10. Belfast is about 45 minutes via the A1 to Banbridge then down the hill. Dublin is about 1 hour 30 by motorway to Newry, then 20 minutes.

By bus

Translink Ulsterbus runs a Newry–Rathfriland–Banbridge service several times a day on weekdays, with reduced services at weekends. Check Translink for the current timetable.

By train

No station. Newry (Bessbrook) is the nearest rail stop, on the Belfast–Dublin Enterprise line, about 20 minutes away by car. Banbridge has no rail station either; the line was closed in 1956.

By air

Belfast International (BFS) is about 1 hour. Belfast City (BHD) is about 1 hour. Dublin (DUB) is about 1 hour 45.