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ABBEYKNOCKMOY
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Abbeyknockmoy
Mainistir Chnoc Muaidhe

The East Galway
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Mainistir Chnoc Muaidhe · Co. Galway

A Cistercian abbey ruin with medieval paintings of Irish kings on the wall.

Abbeyknockmoy is a Cistercian abbey founded in 1189 by Cathal Crobhdearg Ua Conchobair, King of Connacht. It sits on the northern bank of the River Abbert in the east Galway countryside, about a kilometre from the small village of the same name. The abbey is now a ruin. The church still stands. The domestic buildings are mostly rubble. The reason you come here is the medieval wall-paintings inside the chancel.

The paintings are tempera—egg and pigment, mixed and applied to dry plaster—not fresco, which is applied to wet plaster. This is an important distinction because true fresco is extremely rare in medieval Ireland. Knockmoy has one of only four medieval tempera artworks on the island. The paintings depict Irish kings: Roderic O'Conor is recognizable in the centre. There is also a scene of the death of Mac Murrough's son. The work dates to the early medieval period, though the exact century is debated. Long exposed to the elements, the Office of Public Works weatherproofed the segment of the abbey which houses them in the 1980s, and the paintings have survived.

The abbey itself is worth walking through: the chancel with its rib-vaulted ceiling, the nave where the laybrothers worshipped, the narrow transepts to the north and south, each with its own side chapels. The chapter room, the refectory (where the monks ate in silence while someone read aloud), the kitchens. The cloister is now a burial ground. The monastery is claustral in layout—the buildings arranged around a central courtyard—which was standard for Cistercian houses of this period. The buildings you see date mostly from the early thirteenth century, with later repairs and additions in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. In 1542, following the dissolution of the monasteries, the abbot surrendered the abbey to Henry VIII. What you see now is what was left after.

Population
~150
Founded
1189
Coords
53.4403° N, 8.7428° W
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At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

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Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

A king built this monastery

Founded by Cathal Crobhdearg

Cathal Crobhdearg Ua Conchobair—"Cathal of the Red Hand"—was King of Connacht, one of the most powerful rulers in medieval Ireland. In 1189, he founded Knockmoy Abbey and settled it with monks from Boyle Abbey in County Roscommon. He was a patron of the Cistercians, as was common among Irish kings at the time. The abbey became a significant religious establishment in the north-east of County Galway. Cathal Crobhdearg died in 1224. The abbey outlasted him by more than three centuries until the dissolution of the monasteries in 1542. On the south-west corner of the church is a sculpture of a king—possibly Ua Conchobair himself. The nose and chin have broken away. The eyes, hair, and crown remain.

Medieval kings on the chancel wall

The Tempera Wall-Paintings

The north wall of the chancel is covered with tempera paintings depicting scenes from Irish history: Roderic O'Conor, High King of Ireland, is shown in the centre. There is also a scene showing the death of Mac Murrough's son. These paintings are not frescoes—a common misunderstanding. Fresco is applied wet-on-wet, and true medieval frescoes are vanishingly rare in Ireland. Tempera—egg-binder, pigment, applied to dry plaster—is what covers this wall. The technique is permanent. The paintings survive. They are one of only four medieval tempera artworks in Ireland, which makes them significant. The condition of the paintings is poor after centuries of exposure to the weather, but the office of Public Works protected them in the 1980s, and they remain visible.

From monastery to ruin

Dissolution and Afterlife

The abbey was plundered multiple times in its history. William de Burgh raided it in either 1202 or 1203. There were subsequent raids in 1228 and beyond. But the abbey survived as a working monastery for more than three and a half centuries. In 1542, following Henry VIII's dissolution of the monasteries, Hugh O'Kelly, the abbot in commendam, surrendered the abbey to the Crown. The monks left. The buildings were left to the weather and to repurposing by the locals. What stands now is what remains: the church with its vaults and sculptures, the cloister, the outline of the domestic buildings. The ruins are a national monument. The wall-paintings are protected. Knockmoy Abbey is one of the best-preserved Cistercian houses in Ireland.

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Getting there.

By car

From Galway city, take the N6 east toward Dublin for about 30km. Turn south at Ballinasloe (exit for Birr/Kinnitty). Abbeyknockmoy is a small village about 15 minutes south-east of Ballinasloe on the R446. The abbey is on the edge of the village. Parking is available at the site. Total time from Galway: about 1 hour.

By bus

No direct bus to the abbey. The nearest scheduled stops are Ballinasloe (on the Bus Éireann 10/11/12 routes from Galway) or Loughrea (on the 50 routes). From either, taxi or arrange transport in advance. The village is not served by public transport.

By train

Nearest station is Ballinasloe, about 20 minutes north by road. From Ballinasloe, taxi to the abbey.

By air

Shannon is about 1 hour south by car. Cork is 1 hour 30 minutes south. From either airport, car or arranged transport.