Baile Locha Riach · Co. Galway
Medieval walls, Celtic Revival glass, and a lake that won't stop talking back.
Loughrea sits on the grey-speckled lake it's named for, 30 kilometres south of Galway city. The town is small enough that the cathedral dominates every view. That's not coincidence. St Brendan's was built 1897-1902, and it carries more Celtic Revival glass than almost any other single building in Ireland. Ten windows by Michael Healy. Work by Sarah Purser, Evie Hone, Alfred E. Child. The whole thing is a museum of a moment when Irish art decided to look Irish again.
The town has medieval walls - actual 13th-century walls, built when Richard de Burgo founded the place as a military garrison. The Porchfield gate still stands. So do the ruins of an abbey. The lake is clean and cold and has always been there. The Carmelite friary dates to the 13th century as well. The Williamite Wars passed through here. The railway came and went. Nothing stopped the lake.
Come for the glass, stay because the light changes it every hour. Walk the medieval walls and realise you're 800 years downwind of a practical decision. Rent a boat or just sit on the shore and watch the water birds that migrate through in winter. This isn't a postcard town. It's a working town that happens to contain some of the most important examples of Ireland deciding who it was.