A tower house in red stone
Dunguaire Castle
Built c. 1520 on a stone promontory into Kinvara Bay, Dunguaire was the keep of one of the Burke families — or possibly the O'Hynes, depending on which story you hear. The stone is red, the light on it at evening is reason enough to come. The castle held out under siege, was abandoned, was reoccupied, was left to the weather. The Office of Public Works restored it in the twentieth century and now it is open to visitors — a short walk from the village, straight up to the top, views of the bay from the ramparts. The interior is a spiral stair and stone walls, which is all a tower house is.
The working boats of Connacht
The Galway Hookers
The bád mór, the leath bhád, the gleoteog, the púcán — different sizes of the same boat, a narrow-hulled wooden fishing boat built for rough water and shallow harbours. The black sail was the traditional finish, and most still carry the black though not all still fish. The hooker was the working boat of Galway, Mayo and Connacht for centuries — you see them in paintings and photographs dating back decades. The Cruinniú na mBád brings them all home in August. The village still builds them; one-man operations with traditional tools. To watch a hooker being built is to watch someone carve the boat out of the wood the way it came to them.
August festival, boats and music
The Cruinniú na mBád
The Gathering of the Boats happens every August, a long weekend of racing, rowing, music sessions, food and the village turned on its head with visitors. The hookers race — real races with real crews and real competitiveness. The pubs stay open late. The sessions run long. It books the village solid and is worth planning for, though the August heat and crowds mean some people prefer to come any other month.
Limestone on one side, water on the other
The Burren and the bay
Kinvara sits at the exact meeting point — the Burren limestone climbs out of the bay to the south, visible from the harbour wall. To the north is open water. This peculiarity of position means visitors can walk the bay or walk the stone within fifteen minutes of the village. The Burren side is a landscape; the water side is a fishery. The village is the hinge.