County Galway Ireland · Co. Galway · Milltown Save · Share
POSTED FROM
MILLTOWN
CO. GALWAY · IE

Milltown
Baile an Mhuilinn, Co. Galway

The Ireland's Hidden Heartlands
STOP 07 / 07
Baile an Mhuilinn · Co. Galway

A mill village on the River Clare that, for its size, has produced a startling number of people - a playwright, an astronomer who found a new star, and a President's wife.

Milltown sits on the River Clare on the old Tuam to Sligo road, eleven kilometres north of Tuam and close to the Mayo border. It is a small place - just over two hundred people at the last count - in the kind of north Galway farming country that does not perform for visitors. Limestone, small fields, stone walls older than names. The river is why the village is here: two mills once turned on it, O'Grady's at Milltown and Bermingham's down at Lack, and the Irish name Baile an Mhuilinn means simply the town of the mill.

What is remarkable about Milltown is not its size but its output. The astronomer John Birmingham discovered a new star here in 1866. The playwright M.J. Molloy, who Garry Hynes of Druid called a master of Irish folk theatre, was born and died in the village. Sabina Higgins, the wife of President Michael D. Higgins, comes from the parish. For a place this small, that is a striking roll of names, and the village knows it - there is a small community museum that holds Birmingham's own telescope.

Do not come expecting a tourist town. There is no heritage-centre tour, no coastal drive, no postcard main street. There is a river walk, a couple of churches, a long history written in the townlands, and at least one bar that has been in the same family since before the Famine. Come for an hour, walk the river path, look at the place the way it actually is, and move on to Tuam or up into Mayo.

Population
207 (2016)
Walk score
Through the village in ten minutes
Founded
First recorded 1589; two mills on the River Clare
Coords
53.6150° N, 8.9006° W
01 / 07

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 07

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Sheridan's Bar & Restaurant

Family-run, food and a local crowd
Bar & restaurant, village centre

The Sheridan family have been at it in Milltown since 1827, which makes this older than most things in the village. Lounge bar at the front, a dining room doing lunch and evening menus, and the lively local atmosphere you would hope for in a village this size. If you stop in Milltown for one thing, this is it.

03 / 07

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

John Birmingham at Millbrook, 1866

The man who found a new star

John Birmingham (1816-1884) grew up on the Millbrook estate just outside Milltown - a landlord's son who turned polymath, geologist, linguist and poet. On the night of 12 May 1866, walking home from a friend's house, he looked up and saw a star in Corona Borealis that had not been there before. He had discovered T Coronae Borealis, the recurrent nova now nicknamed the Blaze Star. He built his first observatory at Millbrook - a wooden house with a sliding roof - and later bought a telescope from Cooke of York with a Grubb of Dublin lens. His catalogue of red stars won the Royal Irish Academy's Cunningham Medal in 1876, and a crater region on the Moon carries his name. His telescope is on display in the Milltown community museum. The Blaze Star is due to erupt again, visible to the naked eye, any year now - the same star, from the same constellation, that a Galway man caught on a walk home.

Born and died in the village, 1917-1994

M.J. Molloy and the folk theatre

Michael Joseph Molloy was a Milltown man through and through - born in the village and buried in it. He meant to be a priest until tuberculosis put him in hospital for long stretches, and it was there he began writing plays. His best-known work, The King of Friday's Men (1948), played in London and New York and was revived by the Abbey for decades. He drew his material straight from home: through the 1940s and 50s, before electricity reached the area, he cycled within a ten-mile radius of Milltown collecting stories and folklore from rural houses, much of it gathered at the forge of the local blacksmith Michael Silke. Druid's Garry Hynes called the world he made strange and utterly unique, dominated by great baroque characters from the folklore of the west. He has been described as the greatest master of Irish folk theatre since Synge.

Berminghams, O'Flahertys and a bardic school

The castle and the mills

The first record of Milltown is a violent one: in 1589 Sir Murrough O'Flaherty and his men stormed Edward Bermingham's castle, burned half the village and destroyed the grain fields, and still failed to take it. The Berminghams were the local Anglo-Norman family; their corn-and-tuck mill at Lack and O'Grady's mill at Milltown are what gave the village its name. Nearby Kilclooney Castle housed the O hUiginn (O'Higgin) bardic family, hereditary poets who ran a school of poetry through the winter months - twelve years of training to make a file. The parish itself is made up of two medieval civil parishes, Addergoole and Liskeevy.

Four thousand years out of the bog

The Lurgan logboat

In August 1902, turf-cutters in Lurgan Bog near Milltown uncovered an enormous dugout boat carved from a single oak. Radiocarbon-dated to around 2200 BC, the Lurgan logboat is one of the great Bronze Age finds from the Irish midlands and now sits in the National Museum of Ireland in Dublin. It is not in Milltown - but it came out of the ground here, and it is a reminder that the River Clare country has been worked and travelled for four thousand years.

04 / 07

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

River Clare walk A short riverside path along the River Clare through the village - the reason the place exists, at walking pace. Easy, flat, good for stretching the legs if you have stopped for lunch at Sheridan's.
550 m pathdistance
20 minutestime
Milltown rural walk A waymarked loop out through the farming townlands around the village. Quiet roads, stone walls, the kind of north Galway country M.J. Molloy cycled gathering stories. Boots after rain.
4.5 km loopdistance
1 hourtime
05 / 07

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

The river country greens up and the walking is at its best. Note the date: Birmingham found his star on 12 May, and the Blaze Star is overdue another eruption - worth a look up.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Long evenings, the river walk at its easiest, and the village quiet. A good base-of-the-day stop on the run between Galway and Mayo.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

Soft light over the farmland and few people about. The GAA championship season is on if you want a match in a small Galway club.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Short days and wet roads. The pub keeps going and the museum can be arranged, but there is little to draw you outdoors.

◐ Mind yourself
06 / 07

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Expecting a Wild Atlantic Way village

Milltown is inland north Galway, in the Hidden Heartlands - no coast, no cliffs, no Connemara. If you came looking for the Atlantic you have driven the wrong road. Take it for what it is: a quiet river village with a long memory.

×
The N17 fly-by

Most people pass Milltown at speed on the way between Galway and Sligo and never stop. Fair enough - but the village that produced the man who found a new star deserves ten minutes and a walk along the river.

+

Getting there.

By car

From Tuam, 11 km north on the old N17 (now largely the R332 corridor) toward Sligo. Galway city is about 47 km south, roughly an hour.

By bus

Bus services on the Galway-Tuam-Sligo corridor pass nearby; Local Link covers the rural routes around north Galway. Check timetables - rural service is not frequent.

By train

No station - the Milltown railway station on the old Western Railway Corridor closed in 1963. Nearest working rail is at Galway or, on the Western corridor, the Galway-Limerick line; for most visitors the car is the realistic option.

By air

Shannon (about 90 minutes south) and Ireland West Airport Knock (about 45 minutes north in Mayo) are the nearest airports.