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SCARTAGLEN
CO. KERRY · IE

Scartaglen
Scairteach an Ghlinne

The Sliabh Luachra
STOP 07 / 07
Scairteach an Ghlinne · Co. Kerry

The village on the green where Padraig O'Keeffe drank, taught and is still in bronze.

Scartaglen is a small village on the R577, four and a bit miles north-east of Castleisland, in the Sliabh Luachra uplands where Kerry, Cork and Limerick run into each other. A hundred and sixty-three people at the last census. A church Connolly built in 1928, a national school with a hundred and twenty kids in it, a GAA pitch, a green, and two pubs facing each other across the square — Lyons' and Fleming's. Drive through and you have already missed it. Stop, and you are standing in the middle of one of the most important square miles in Irish music.

Padraig O'Keeffe (1887–1963), the schoolmaster-fiddler from Glountane Cross up the road, drank in Lyons' for forty years. He taught fiddle around the parishes of Sliabh Luachra by bicycle and copybook, and the parishes round here learned what he knew. His pupils Denis Murphy and Julia Clifford carried the tradition out into the world on Topic Records in the 1960s. On the 29th of July 1983, the village put a bust of him on the edge of the green, looking across at the pub he never quite left. It is still there. So is the pub.

What matters about Scartaglen now is the Heritage Centre. It opened in May 2000, two hundred seats and a working kitchen, and it has been the engine of the local music ever since. World Fiddle Day Scartaglin runs on the Saturday nearest the 19th of May and pulls fiddlers from Cork, Clare, Donegal and abroad for a day of recitals and céilí. The Handed Down series puts a concert on each month — players who learned from people who learned from O'Keeffe. The rest of the year is two-pubs quiet. That is the deal, and it is the right deal.

Population
163
Pubs
2and counting
Walk score
Square, two pubs, a green and a bust — done in five minutes
Founded
Our Lady of Lourdes built 1928–1930
Coords
52.1792° N, 9.4061° W
01 / 07

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 07

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Lyons' Bar

Padraig O'Keeffe's haunt
Old village pub

Jack Lyons' to anyone who knew it in the old days. The pub Padraig O'Keeffe drank and played in for forty years — there's a 1961 photo of him and Denis Murphy at the bar that everyone in Sliabh Luachra has seen. Still pulling pints. Sessions when the players are around, quiet most other nights.

Fleming's Bar

Local, steady
Village pub

Across the square from Lyons'. The other half of the village's social life — football crowd on a Sunday, a session when one breaks out. The two pubs work as a pair: when one is quiet, you cross the road.

03 / 07

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Polka country, mapped from the green

The heart of Sliabh Luachra

Sliabh Luachra is a region, not a town — a high rushy plain where Cork, Kerry and Limerick meet — but every region has a centre, and Scartaglen is as close to Sliabh Luachra's as you'll find on a map. Brosna is twenty minutes north. Knocknagree is fifteen minutes south, across the Munster Blackwater into Cork. Gneeveguilla is twenty minutes west. Castleisland sits on the N21 just below. Padraig O'Keeffe walked and cycled the lot of them for forty years. The triangle is the music. Scartaglen is the pin in the middle.

A village hall that does the work

The Sliabh Luachra Heritage Centre

The Heritage Centre opened in May 2000 — a 200-seat auditorium, a kitchen, meeting rooms, the kind of building that ten years earlier would have been a closed-down dance hall. It runs the Handed Down series, the Young Musicians Gathering, World Fiddle Day, archive recital nights, and a céilí or three a year. The point is not to museum the music. The point is to keep playing it in the room where it gets played. The centre is the reason you can drive to Scartaglen on a wet Saturday in November and find sixty fiddlers in the hall.

Why it sounds different from the rest

The polka and the slide

Most of Irish trad is jigs and reels in 6/8 and 4/4. Sliabh Luachra is polkas and slides — 2/4 and 12/8 — faster, lighter, made for set-dancers in farmhouse kitchens. The bowing is short and hammered, the ornaments tight, the swing a little lonelier than what you'll hear in Clare or Galway. The Napoleonic dancing-masters left polkas and quadrilles around Munster in the 1840s; up on the rushy plain the dancers kept dancing them, and the players kept playing for them, and the radio collectors arrived a hundred years later to find a tradition that had not been told it was meant to die.

Padraig O'Keeffe in bronze, 1983

The bust on the green

On the 29th of July 1983, twenty years after he died, the village unveiled a portrait bust of Padraig O'Keeffe on the edge of the green. It looks across the square at Lyons' Bar, which is where you would have found him most evenings. He had no statue when he was alive — he was a fiddle teacher in a country that didn't make statues for fiddle teachers. The village made him one anyway. World Fiddle Day every May ends with a tune in front of it, more or less by accident, more or less the right thing.

04 / 07

Music, by day of the week.

Schedules drift. This is roughly right. The real answer is "ask in the first pub you find."

Mon
Quiet outside event nights
Tue
Cooraclare-style Tuesday session in Knocknagree (Dan O'Connell's, Co. Cork) — 15 min south. The Sliabh Luachra Tuesday.
Wed
Quiet
Thu
Occasional session in Lyons' or Fleming's — ask
Fri
Pub session if players are around
Sat
Handed Down series at the Heritage Centre — one Saturday a month, 8pm
Sun
GAA day. Pub afterwards. Music if someone starts it.
05 / 07

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

World Fiddle Day Scartaglin lands on the Saturday nearest 19 May — recitals all afternoon, céilí in the evening, sessions in both pubs after. The reason to come if you're coming once.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

Long evenings, but the Heritage Centre programme thins out for summer. Patrick O'Keeffe Festival weekend at the end of October is the next big one — pencil it in instead.

◐ Mind yourself
Autumn
Sep–Oct

October is the month. The Patrick O'Keeffe Traditional Music Festival runs in Castleisland the last weekend of the month and pulls Scartaglen players out for the long weekend. Stay in Castleisland, drive up here for the daytime sessions.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

The Handed Down concerts continue through the dark months and the hall is warm. Outside concert nights the village is two pubs and a fire.

◐ Mind yourself
06 / 07

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Showing up on a random Tuesday expecting a session in the village

The Tuesday-night Sliabh Luachra session is in Dan O'Connell's of Knocknagree, fifteen minutes south across the Cork line. Drive the road. The pubs in Scartaglen are quiet most weeknights and that is the truth of it.

×
Looking for a hotel, a restaurant or a coffee bar

There aren't any. Two pubs, a shop, a chipper near the school, the Heritage Centre. Stay in Castleisland (15 min) or Killarney (35 min) and drive in for the music.

×
Confusing the Patrick O'Keeffe Festival with World Fiddle Day

Two different weekends, both his. World Fiddle Day is here in Scartaglen on the Saturday closest to 19 May. The Patrick O'Keeffe Traditional Music Festival is in Castleisland the last weekend of October. Same musical world, different dates, different villages.

×
Treating Sliabh Luachra as one venue

It's a region. Scartaglen is the centre, but Brosna, Gneeveguilla, Knocknagree and Knocknagoshel each hold a piece of it. The tradition lives in the spread, not in any single bar.

+

Getting there.

By car

Castleisland to Scartaglen is 15 minutes north-east on the R577 — about 7.5km. Killarney is 35 minutes south-west via Castleisland. Brosna is 20 minutes further on the R577. The road is narrow in the last few miles. That's the point.

By bus

Local Link runs a limited service through the village. Useful if you've checked the timetable in advance; not something to plan a weekend around. Castleisland (Bus Éireann 13 and 14 from Tralee, Limerick and Dublin) is the practical drop-off — taxi or hire car the last 15 minutes.

By train

Nearest station is Tralee, 35 minutes by road. Then bus or hire car.

By air

Kerry Airport (KIR) is 25 minutes south. Cork is 1h 30m. Shannon is 1h 15m and may be the easier US arrival.