County Kilkenny Ireland · Co. Kilkenny · Jenkinstown Save · Share
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Jenkinstown

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 06 / 06
Jenkinstown · Co. Kilkenny

A beech wood with bluebells in May and the ghost of a poet. Ten minutes north of Kilkenny city. That is the whole story.

Jenkinstown is not a village — it is a wood. A few houses around the name, a crossroads on the R693 north of Kilkenny city, and the wood that gives the place its reason. Ten minutes by car and you are out of the city and into old beech forest, the kind of woodland that is managed now — Coillte, the state forest company, owns it — but has the feel of being much older. A green lane from the carpark climbs into it. The floor of the forest is what you came for.

The Thomas Moore connection is a local story — a house somewhere in the forest where the poet stayed, or lived, or spent a morning writing the opening lines of his best poem. Nobody can point to the exact spot. The ruin is supposed to be there. The tradition is clear. The proof is not. But 'Tis the last rose of summer / Left blooming alone' — all of summer and autumn in two lines — came from somewhere, and why not a beech wood on a May morning ten minutes north of Kilkenny?

What you do: Drive north from Kilkenny on the R693. Park at the Jenkinstown Wood entrance. Walk the green lane in. May morning, bluebell floor, the light through the old branches. Two hours if you circle; ninety minutes if you are just passing through. Buy a coffee in Kilkenny after. The wood does the work.

Population
~150
Walk score
The wood is the walk
Founded
Hamlet on the R693, ten minutes north of Kilkenny city
Coords
52.7003° N, 7.2711° W
01 / 06

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 06

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

A managed beech forest

Jenkinstown Wood

The woodland at Jenkinstown is old-growth beech, managed by Coillte as a public amenity. The trees are mature — one hundred, maybe two hundred years old by eye — and the forest feels it. No conifers, no clear-cutting history; just tall beech trunks with the light coming down in green shafts. In May the bluebell seed is triggered by the warming soil and the light under the branches. For four weeks the entire forest floor is blue — not purple, not violet, but a pure English-woodland blue that stops you walking and makes you stand still instead.

A poem, a poet, and a local story that nobody can prove

Thomas Moore and "The Last Rose of Summer"

Thomas Moore (1779–1852) was the Irish Romantic poet who made himself the voice of Ireland in England — a walk on Grafton Street is a statue of him, a walk on any literary shelf is a book of his verses. His most famous poem is 'The Last Rose of Summer', four stanzas about beauty, time, loss, and the end of summer in 'Tis the last rose of summer / Left blooming alone / All her lovely companions / Are faded and gone. The poem is in every anthology. The story in Jenkinstown is that he wrote it in a house on the grounds of the wood, or stayed there and the house inspired it. The ruins are supposed to be somewhere in the trees. No historian can confirm the spot. The local tradition is absolute. The truth is: he may have; we cannot say he did not; the wood is beautiful enough that it could have inspired that line.

03 / 06

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Jenkinstown Wood main circuit Park at the car park on the R693. Follow the green lane up into the wood. The main trail loops back. May is bluebell month and the only month to time a trip for — the floor of the entire forest is blue for four weeks. The rest of the year the wood is quiet beech. Come for May or come for October when the trees go gold. The Thomas Moore connection is a story; do not waste energy looking for the ruins.
5 km loopdistance
1.5 hourstime
04 / 06

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
May

Bluebell season. The forest floor is entirely blue for four weeks. Arrive early, arrive alone if you can, arrive with no expectations except for the light through the flowers and the old trees. This is why the walk exists.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

Green and quiet, but the bluebells are gone. Warm days, the wood is pleasant, but it is not the singular thing it is in May. Book Kilkenny instead and visit the wood as a half-hour detour.

◐ Mind yourself
Autumn
Sep–Oct

The beech trees go gold and then brown. October colour is the second-best month. Cold mornings, the wood is empty, the light is low and amber. Bring a coat. It is beautiful in a quieter way.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

Bare branches, wet leaves, the mud on the path is real. The light is brief — arrive by two o'clock. Do not come expecting magic. Come if you like winter woods; otherwise skip it.

◐ Mind yourself
05 / 06

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Searching for the Thomas Moore house ruins

You will not find them. The tradition is local and strong; the location is vague. Spend the time looking at the bluebells, the beech trunks, the light. That is why you came.

×
Visiting in summer to look for a poem

May is the month. Every other month the wood is pleasant but not singular. If you can only come June to August, come in May instead. It is why the place exists.

×
Expecting a village to visit

Jenkinstown is a wood. There is no village centre, no shops, no pubs. Park at the wood, walk it, leave. The next stop is Kilkenny city, ten minutes south.

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Getting there.

By car

From Kilkenny city centre, north on the R693 for 10 minutes. The car park is signposted on the left. Dublin to Kilkenny is 1h 30m on the M9; then 10 minutes north.

By bus

Bus Éireann serves Kilkenny frequently from Dublin. From Kilkenny city, the wood is a local taxi ride or a hire-car run north on the R693. No direct bus to the wood.

By train

Iarnród Éireann from Dublin Heuston to Kilkenny, hourly, 1h 30m. Then taxi or hire car north 10 minutes to the wood.

By air

Dublin is the nearest airport — 1h 30m to Kilkenny, then 10 minutes north to Jenkinstown. Cork is 2 hours to Kilkenny.