Ros Fhionnghlaise · Co. Laois
The oldest Quaker village in Ireland, where the River Barrow rises and the Slieve Blooms begin.
Rosenallis is not a stop so much as a starting point. The Slieve Blooms press in from the west, the central plain rolls away to the east, and the village sits on the seam between them on the R422, about six kilometres northwest of Mountmellick. The name is Ros Fhionnghlaise, the wood of the clear stream. The stream is still here. So, more or less, are the Quakers who gave the village its shape.
William Edmundson brought the Society of Friends to Ireland and settled here in 1659. The village grew around them, and it kept their stamp: plain, quiet, practical. During the Famine the population of Rosenallis actually rose while the rest of the country emptied, because the Quakers fed and sheltered the people around them. The graveyard outside the village is the oldest Quaker burial ground in Ireland, and walking it is the main heritage reason to come.
The other reason is up the hill. Glenbarrow, five minutes by car, is where the River Barrow rises out of the bog before it becomes the great navigable river of the southeast. There are marked loops to the Clamphole Falls and the trailhead for the Slieve Bloom Way, the long waymarked circuit of the whole range. You can do an hour or you can do three days.
What is here in the village is modest and honest: two churches, a primary school, a community centre, a GAA and a soccer club, and one pub. The filling station and the shop are gone. Say that plainly. You come to Rosenallis for the graveyard, the well and the hills, not for a high street.