Ó Méith · Co. Louth
The last village before the border, on the south shore of the lough, looking across at Warrenpoint.
Omeath sits on the south shore of Carlingford Lough at the end of the Cooley Peninsula, the last Irish village before the border with Co. Down. Six hundred people, two hotels, a few bars, a pier, and a Calvary on the hillside above the road. The Mournes fill the view across the water. Warrenpoint is a five-minute ferry away when the boat is running.
It was a railway village. The Dundalk, Newry & Greenore line opened a station here in 1876 and Northern day-trippers came down for fresh air, fishing and the kind of drink they could not get on a Sunday at home. The line closed in 1951; the trackbed is now the Carlingford Lough Greenway. The earlier history is older and stranger - a Gaeltacht into the 1950s, the eastern outpost of Irish-speaking Ireland, with a dialect that linguists travelled north from Dublin to record.
Don't come for a checklist. Come for a slow cycle on the Greenway from Carlingford with the Mournes on the right shoulder, a pint at the Park Hotel looking across at Warrenpoint, a wander up to the Calvary that Italian missionaries built with French statues in 1908, a plate at Granvue's Seaview Restaurant where the lough does most of the work, and a foot-ferry crossing to the North if the boat is running. An afternoon, a long lunch, and back to Carlingford for the night. Or a night here, which is the quieter call.
The Narrow Water Bridge is finally being built, joining Omeath to Warrenpoint by road. By the time it opens, the village will be five minutes from a Northern town for the first time since the line closed. That changes things; whether for better depends on who you ask. Get here while the foot ferry still feels like a frontier.