Clár Chlainne Mhuiris · Co. Mayo
The junction town of south Mayo - trains, marts, and a square that still functions.
Claremorris is a market town in south-central Mayo at the crossing of the N17 and the N60 - a junction town in the most literal sense. The railway got here in 1862 and for a few decades this was the commercial hub of the whole region: five lines radiating out, goods moving through, farmers and merchants arriving for the Saturday mart. The mart is still going. The Saturday energy is still there, if quieter than the railway posters used to promise.
The town takes its name from Maurice de Prendergast, a Norman knight who arrived with Strongbow in 1170 and was granted the surrounding lands. Clár Chlainne Mhuiris - plain of the family of Muiris. The plain is still here: flat farming country ringed by low drumlins, the kind of south Mayo landscape that doesn't announce itself but rewards a second look on a clear morning when the light comes level across the fields.
In 1879 a gathering in Claremorris helped set in motion the Irish National Land League. Michael Davitt attended. Plans were made for the meeting at Irishtown that is usually called the beginning of the Land War. Three years of rent strikes and organised resistance followed, the boycott was invented, and the landlord system in Ireland was broken. This happened in stages, but Claremorris was part of where it started.
It is a service town, honestly - the kind of place people drive through on the way to Westport or Galway. The square, the mart, Gilligan's on the corner: these are the working parts. If you are passing through anyway, stop for the pint and the history. If you are making a detour, know what you are coming for.