Baile an Bheallaigh · Co. Meath
A hill, a racecourse three centuries old, and a view to the Mournes. The horses are the reason; the light is the bonus.
Bellewstown is the races and the Hill of Crockafotha, and not much else - which is exactly the point. It is a small place, under five hundred people in the last full census, strung along a rise of high ground about 11 km south of Drogheda. There is a primary school, a Catholic church, a pub, a golf course, and a racecourse that is older than the United States. Most of the year nothing happens. For one week in July the whole hill comes alive.
The name belongs to the Bellews, an Anglo-Norman family who held this land from the thirteenth century to the seventeenth. Their castle, built in the 1470s by Richard Bellew, is a ruin now in the grounds of Bellewstown House, and the shell of a medieval parish church sits in the same farmyard. The hill itself was lived on long before the Bellews - the surrounding townlands carry cist burials, a standing stone, ring ditches and ringforts, the usual quiet evidence that high dry ground was always worth holding.
But the reason to come is the racing. The first record is from August 1726, and in 1780 George Tandy - a former Mayor of Drogheda and brother of Napper Tandy of the United Irishmen - talked King George III into sponsoring a race here, His Majesty's Plate, worth £100. That is when a hillside with horses on it became a racecourse. The track is a tight left-handed mile and a furlong, the gradient changes under you, and the going is usually firm because the water runs off the hill. No two cards play the same. The terrain has a vote.
Come for the festival in early July and Bellewstown is one of the great small race meetings in Ireland - country racing, a hilltop, a view, and a crowd that knows the form. Come any other week and it is a quiet rural village with a pub and a long view. Both versions are honest. Just know which one you are arriving for.