Baile an Bhiataigh · Co. Meath
A holiday strand on the east Meath coast where, in 1850, children digging in the sand turned up the finest brooch in early-medieval Ireland.
Bettystown is a seaside village on the east coast of Meath, sitting on a five-kilometre run of sand between the Nanny estuary at Laytown and the mouth of the Boyne at Mornington. It runs straight into Laytown to the south - the two are really one settlement, and the census counts them together with Mornington and Donacarney as a single urban area of 15,642 people. The beach is the whole point. Long, flat, hard sand at low water, the sea a fair walk out, the Cooley hills and the Mournes across the bay on a clear day.
In 1850 children digging on this strand turned up a small brooch: eighth-century gilt silver, set with glass, amber and enamel, the filigree work as fine as anything that survives from early-medieval Ireland. A Dublin jeweller bought it and called it the Tara Brooch to shift replicas during the Celtic Revival, though it has nothing to do with the Hill of Tara. It sits in the National Museum in Dublin now, and the beach that produced it is none the richer for it. Some scholars reckon it was actually found inland and the beach story was invented to dodge a landowner's claim. Either way, Bettystown wears the name.
Beyond the brooch, this is a working holiday village rather than a heritage town. It was a Dublin summer resort for generations - caravan parks, amusements, day-trippers off the train - and the Celtic Tiger turned it into a commuter belt for people driving or training to the city. Reddans of Bettystown, also trading as Neptune Beach, has anchored the Coast Road for well over a century and is the main place to eat, drink and sleep. There is a links golf club, a long beach, and not a great deal else. That is not a complaint. It is what a seaside village is for.