County Tyrone Ireland · Co. Tyrone · Aughnacloy Save · Share
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AUGHNACLOY
CO. TYRONE · IE

Aughnacloy
Achadh na Cloiche

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 08 / 08
Achadh na Cloiche · Co. Tyrone

For thirty years this was one of the most fortified border crossings in Europe. Now the A5 runs straight through without a pause. The gap between those two sentences is almost everything.

Aughnacloy is a village of just over a thousand people at the exact point where the main Dublin-to-Belfast road crosses from Co. Monaghan into Co. Tyrone. The River Blackwater marks the line. You cross it without noticing - a bridge, a slight dip in the road, and you're in a different jurisdiction. That effortlessness is twenty-five years old. Before that, the crossing was the business of this place.

From the early 1970s through the late 1990s, Aughnacloy had one of the heaviest security installations on the Irish border. Fortified sangars, raised watchtowers, permanent army and RUC presence, vehicle inspection bays. Travellers on the A5 could wait the best part of an hour. The checkpoint was designed to be impenetrable. It also became, by that design, a site of daily friction and humiliation for local people who had to pass through it simply to go about their lives.

On 21 February 1988, Aidan McAnespie - a twenty-three-year-old from the area - walked through the checkpoint as he had done many times before, heading to Aghaloo GAA grounds for a match. A soldier at the checkpoint fired a general purpose machine gun. McAnespie was struck in the back and killed. The British Army initially claimed the weapon discharged accidentally because the soldier's hands were wet. An inquest recorded an open verdict. It took until 2022 - a thirty-four-year span - for the soldier responsible, David Holden, to be found guilty of manslaughter by a Belfast Crown Court. He received a three-year suspended sentence.

The checkpoint infrastructure was largely demolished after the Good Friday Agreement and the normalisation of the border that followed through the early 2000s. What you find now is a village that carries that history quietly and gets on with things. Salley's Bar and Restaurant has been on Moore Street since 1995 and remains the most reliable reason to stop rather than pass through. The wide main street - evidence of an older market function entirely independent of twentieth-century politics - gives the village an open, unhurried feel that sits oddly with what you know of the place. That tension, between the width of the street and the weight of recent decades, is what Aughnacloy actually is.

Population
1,162
Coords
54.4128° N, 6.9931° W
01 / 08

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 08

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Salley's Bar

Family-run, long-established, no fuss
Bar attached to restaurant, Moore Street

Part of the same operation as Salley's Restaurant at 90-92 Moore Street. The kind of place that's been here long enough to have regulars who remember everything. Bar open when the restaurant is.

03 / 08

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Salley's Restaurant Traditional Irish restaurant ££ 90-92 Moore Street, Aughnacloy. Established 1995. Traditional Irish cooking with locally sourced produce - the Sunday lunch is what people come for. Open Wednesday through Sunday, roughly 10am to 9-10pm. Booking advisable at weekends. One of those places that earns its reputation over decades.
04 / 08

Where to sleep.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Ashbrook House B&B B&B and self-catering, near village Four-star B&B on 5-acre private grounds outside Aughnacloy. Also operates self-catering apartments. Consistently well reviewed. The most established accommodation option in the immediate area - Aughnacloy itself has very limited overnight options so this is the one to book.
05 / 08

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

One of the most fortified crossings in Europe

The checkpoint

The Aughnacloy checkpoint on the A5 was established in the early 1970s as the Troubles intensified and the British government imposed strict controls on movement across the Irish border. At its peak it was among the most heavily fortified border crossings in Europe - raised watchtowers giving soldiers sightlines over the surrounding countryside, permanent vehicle inspection bays, a permanent RUC and British Army presence. For people living in the area, crossing into the Republic and back was a daily or weekly event that involved stopping, papers, searches, and whatever mood the soldiers on duty happened to be in. Lorry drivers on the A5 freight route could be delayed for hours. The crossing funnelled one of the busiest north-south traffic arteries in Ireland through a security bottleneck that announced, with concrete and steel, the nature of the border it guarded. The Good Friday Agreement of 1998 set in motion the normalisation process. The checkpoint infrastructure was dismantled in the early 2000s. By the mid-2000s the last of the physical structures were gone. What remained was the road, the river, and the village.

21 February 1988

Aidan McAnespie

Aidan McAnespie was twenty-three years old and from Aughnacloy. On the morning of 21 February 1988, he walked through the checkpoint on his way to Aghaloo GAA grounds in Tircrevan, where he was expected for a Gaelic football match. McAnespie had been under regular harassment at the checkpoint - his family and local sources later described a pattern of delay, targeting, and intimidation at the crossing that had been ongoing for some time. As he cleared the barrier, a British soldier in a watchtower above fired a general purpose machine gun. McAnespie was struck in the back. He died of his injuries. The soldier, a Private David Jonathan Holden, claimed the weapon discharged accidentally because his hands were wet. No criminal proceedings followed at the time. A historical inquiry was initiated decades later under the Historical Enquiries Team and subsequently transferred to the Police Service of Northern Ireland's Legacy Investigation Branch. In November 2022 - thirty-four years after the killing - Holden was found guilty of manslaughter by gross negligence at Belfast Crown Court. The judge found he had pointed the weapon at McAnespie and pulled the trigger while assuming, wrongly, that it was not cocked. In February 2023, Holden received a three-year sentence, suspended for three years. McAnespie's family and the wider nationalist community had waited more than three decades for the conviction. Many considered the sentence inadequate. A mural commemorating Aidan McAnespie remains in the area.

The watchtowers come down, the road opens up

After the Agreement

The period between the Good Friday Agreement of April 1998 and the mid-2000s was one of visible physical change in Aughnacloy. The normalisation process - decommissioning of paramilitary weapons, drawdown of military infrastructure - was slow and contested in some places, but the border itself changed faster than expected. Customs checks had already been removed when Ireland and the United Kingdom entered the European single market in 1993, which meant the customs infrastructure was already redundant by the time the security installations were dismantled. What had been a village defined by its checkpoint became a village defined by the absence of one. The A5 is now a busy north-south artery used daily by commuters, freight, and visitors without pause. The Irish government's long-promised dualling of the A5 between Derry and the border - part of the St Andrews Agreement commitments - has been in planning and contested for years and remains unfinished at time of writing. When the road works come, Aughnacloy will be at the centre of a construction project that will reshape the crossing once more. The river will still be there.

06 / 08

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

The Blackwater valley has good walking country nearby and the roads are quiet. Best time to drive the border landscape unhurried.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

The A5 is busy with through-traffic but the village itself is easy. Salley's is at its busiest - book ahead for weekend lunch.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

GAA season runs through autumn and Aghaloo GAA grounds have club matches worth catching. The drumlin country on both sides of the border is at its best in October light.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Salley's closes on Mondays and Tuesdays. Not a destination in winter - a stopping point. Confirm opening hours before you plan around them.

◐ Mind yourself
07 / 08

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Looking for physical traces of the checkpoint

The security infrastructure is gone. There's no formal memorial at the checkpoint site, no interpretive panel, no museum. The absence is historically significant - it was partly the point of demolition - but if you're expecting something to look at, you'll be disappointed.

×
A night out

Aughnacloy is a village of just over a thousand people on a trunk road. Salley's is the offer. Monaghan town is twelve minutes south across the border and has a considerably wider choice.

×
Passing through without stopping

Most people on the A5 do exactly this. That's understandable - it's a transit route. But if you drive through Aughnacloy without knowing what happened here, you've missed something the road doesn't tell you about.

+

Getting there.

By car

Aughnacloy is on the A5, 12 km north of Monaghan town (about 12 minutes) and 54 km south of Dungannon. Dublin is roughly 2 hours south on the N2/A5. Belfast is about 1 hour 20 minutes north via Dungannon and the M1. Parking in the village is straightforward.

By bus

Translink Ulsterbus 261 runs between Armagh and Aughnacloy via Middletown, with a small number of services per day. Bus Éireann route 30 links Monaghan town with the north and stops near the border. Neither service is frequent - check timetables. A car is by far the most practical way to reach and move on from Aughnacloy.

By train

No rail connection. The nearest stations are Portadown (about 40 km northeast, on the Belfast-Newry line) and Monaghan - which has not had rail service since the mid-twentieth century. This is car or bus country.