An Baile Nua · Co. County Tyrone
A Plantation town on the River Strule where a ruined O'Neill castle stands on a hill above the fields, and Gortin Glen is twenty minutes south.
Newtownstewart sits in a bend of the River Strule where the Owenkillew comes in from the south. The town itself is compact - a main street, a square, the ruined walls of a 17th-century Plantation castle rising above the river. It was called Lislas before the Plantation, then renamed by Sir William Stewart, who took the land in the 1620s after the original grantee forfeited it. That is the shape of northwest Tyrone: layers of ownership, each one stamped over the last.
The reason most people stop here - if they stop at all - is Harry Avery's Castle, half a mile south-west on a hill above the A5. It is not a ruin in the romantic sense: two D-shaped towers of rough stone, roofless for four centuries, looking out over farmland and river valley. But what it is matters. Almost every medieval stone castle in Ireland was built by the Anglo-Normans. This one was built by the O'Neill family - Gaelic, Irish, the clan that held Tír Eoghain before the Plantation ended it. Named for Henry Aimhréidh O'Neill, who died in 1392, it is a statement in stone that the chieftains here were building to last, in a tradition not their own. The English seized it in 1609. Then it became a quarry.
The town has a working, unpretentious character. The Cedar Country Hotel, a few minutes' drive in the Baronscourt estate forests, is the food and accommodation story for the area - it won Best Hotel and Guesthouse Restaurant at the Irish Restaurant Awards in 2023, which is more than most towns this size can say. The town centre itself is quiet, the kind of place that does its business without performing it.
Use it as a base - for Harry Avery's Castle in the afternoon, for Gortin Glen the next morning, for the Bessy Bell hill walk if the weather is right. The Sperrin hinterland here is wide and largely empty of other visitors. That is either the problem or the point, depending on what you came for.