County Waterford Ireland · Co. Waterford · Portlaw Save · Share
POSTED FROM
PORTLAW
CO. WATERFORD · IE

Portlaw
Port Lách

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 04 / 08
Port Lách · Co. Waterford

A Quaker model village built around a cotton mill that ran the place.

Portlaw is not an old village pretending to be modern. It is the opposite — a planned village, dropped onto a riverbank in 1825 by a Quaker family from Lurgan who needed somewhere to put a cotton mill. David Malcomson and his sons leased Mayfield from a local landlord, dammed the Clodiagh, raised three thirty-foot water-wheels, and within twenty years had one of the largest cotton operations in Ireland running on the spot. The streets, the houses, the schools, the courthouse and the square all came from the same mind. Walk the layout and you can still read the plan.

The cottages are the giveaway. Look up at the rooflines: low, dome-shaped, fronted with slate tiles laid over a wooden frame and sealed with tar and calico — both by-products of the mill. They are called Portlaw roofs, they exist nowhere else, and most of the surviving ones are listed. The houses around Malcomson Square and along George's Street are the textbook examples. The village is small enough to walk in fifteen minutes and the rooflines are the most interesting thing in it.

Then there is Curraghmore. The Beresford family — Marquesses of Waterford — have held the estate since 1717, and the demesne wall is the southern edge of the village. Two and a half thousand acres of formal gardens, woodland and parkland, with a house that grew out of a Norman tower into a Georgian pile. Henry Beresford, the 9th Marquess, has run it since 2015 and opens it to the public on weekends in summer, by pre-booked tour only. It is the kind of grand-house visit you do once and remember.

Population
1,881
Walk score
Square to mill gates in ten minutes
Founded
Mill founded 1825
Coords
52.2867° N, 7.3217° W
01 / 06

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 06

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

A Quaker dynasty

The Malcomsons

David Malcomson came down from Lurgan in the 1790s, made his money in corn-milling, and in 1825 leased Mayfield in Portlaw to convert a derelict ironworks into a cotton factory. He brought his sons, his Quaker meeting, and a way of running a town that came with it: schools for the workers' children, sick clubs, a temperance hall, no pub on the company street. By the 1850s the mill employed over a thousand workers directly and shaped the village around it. The family went on to build ships in Waterford and run the Neptune Iron Works.

Cotton, then leather, then silence

Mayfield Mill

The mill's main weaving shed was once said to be the largest single-roofed space in the British Isles — 260 feet by 40. The Malcomson cotton operation went into trouble in the 1860s with the American Civil War, took another hit in the 1866 Overend Gurney collapse, and the company was liquidated in 1876, costing the village over a thousand jobs. Small-scale textile production continued until 1904 and a creamery operated in the buildings until 1914. Irish Tanners Ltd reopened the site in 1932. At its peak the tannery employed about 600 people and was, for a while, the largest in Europe. It closed in 1985 and has been derelict ever since. Plans for the site come and go.

A village's calling card

The Portlaw roofs

The signature feature of the workers' cottages is a low, vaulted, slate-tile-fronted roof — wooden ribs bent into a dome, sheeted with tar and calico, then faced with overlapping slate tiles. Cheap, watertight, and made from things the mill produced anyway. They are called Portlaw roofs, they are unique to the village, and a fair number of the surviving examples now have protected-structure status. The best run is along George's Street; the heritage centre will point out the rest.

Eight hundred years next door

The Beresfords

Curraghmore has been the seat of the de la Poer and Beresford families since the twelfth century in one form or another. The current house was raised around the original Norman tower house — the tower is still embedded in the central block — and the demesne was laid out by the 1st Earl of Tyrone around 1750, with the formal French garden in front of the house attributed to Louisa, third Lady Waterford. James Wyatt redecorated the principal interior rooms in the late 1770s on his one visit to Ireland. The shell house in the grounds, built in 1754 by the Countess of Tyrone over the course of several years, is decorated inside with shells she collected herself. The estate has its own distillery now, making single-estate whiskey from grain grown on the demesne.

03 / 06

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Portlaw Heritage Trail From Malcomson Square out past the old mill gates, along the Clodiagh, and back through George's Street with the Portlaw roofs in view. Established 2011. The heritage centre on George's Street has a free leaflet that names every building.
2.5 km loopdistance
45 minutestime
Clodiagh river walk Follow the river upstream from the village past the mill weir and into the woods. The weir and the fish-pass that powered the mill water-wheels are still in place. Quiet on a weekday.
3 km out and backdistance
1 hourtime
Curraghmore gardens Friday to Sunday and bank holidays, May to end-September, tours at 11am and 2pm. The estate gates are at the southern edge of the village. Book ahead through curraghmorehouse.ie — it is not a turn-up-and-pay place.
2 hours on footdistance
Pre-booked tour onlytime
Portlaw Woods loops Five waymarked woodland loops thread out from the village through Coillte forestry on the old demesne edge. Map at the heritage centre. Boots in winter — it gets boggy.
4 km optionsdistance
1.5 hourstime
04 / 06

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

Curraghmore's gardens reopen in May and the rhododendrons are the reason to come. The village itself is quiet either way.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

The only window when the heritage centre and Curraghmore are both reliably open. Saturday afternoons are the heritage centre's hours.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep–Oct

Curraghmore is open until end-September. The woodland walks come into their own. Bring a coat.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

Curraghmore is shut. The heritage centre is shut. You can still walk the village and the river, but there is no programmed visit to make.

◐ Mind yourself
05 / 06

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Turning up at Curraghmore without a booking

It is not a stately home with a ticket office. Tours are pre-booked, the gates are on a schedule, and you will be turned away.

×
Treating the mill ruin as an attraction

Mayfield Mill is private, derelict, and fenced. Photograph it from the road or the river path. Do not climb in.

×
Visiting on a winter Saturday expecting the heritage centre

It opens Saturday afternoons May to September only, 2:30 to 4:30. Outside that window, ring ahead or you will find the door locked.

+

Getting there.

By car

Waterford city to Portlaw is 16km on the R680, about 25 minutes. Carrick-on-Suir is the same distance the other way.

By bus

Local Link Waterford runs a service through Portlaw to Waterford city. Limited daily, check timetable.

By train

Nearest station is Waterford (Plunkett), 16km. Then bus or taxi.

By air

Cork (ORK) is 1h 45m by car. Dublin is 2 hours.