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KILMACTHOMAS
CO. WATERFORD · IE

Kilmacthomas
Coill Mhic Thomáisín

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 03 / 06
Coill Mhic Thomáisín · Co. Waterford

The midpoint of the Greenway, a Famine workhouse, and a highwayman in the hills above.

Kilmacthomas is the village in the middle of the Greenway. Twenty-two kilometres east of it is Waterford City; twenty-four west of it is Dungarvan. People who set out to do the whole 46 km in a day stop here for coffee and a sit-down whether they meant to or not. The Mahon river runs under the eight-arch viaduct that carried the old Mallow line; the village climbs the hill above it; the Comeraghs sit behind, blue on a clear day.

The set-piece is the Famine Workhouse on the south-eastern edge of the village. George Wilkinson designed it for the Poor Law Commissioners; the new Kilmacthomas Union came into existence in June 1850; the first admissions were in 1853. It closed in 1919 and the buildings drifted through other uses. When the Greenway opened in 2017 the Workhouse complex was reborn as a hub — Coach House Coffee, Waterford Greenway Bike Hire, Mayfield Birds of Prey — with a car park and seventy people working on a site that once existed to manage destitution. The history is not buried under a plaque. You can still read the building.

The other thing here is Crotty. William Crotty, the Comeragh highwayman, ran a gang out of these mountains from 1738 until he was betrayed, captured and hanged on 18 March 1742. His head went up over the gate of Waterford jail. His wife Mary, the local story goes, jumped from Crotty's Rock into the lake below rather than be taken — though the duller record suggests she was transported. Either way the lake is up there, an hour's walk off the Comeragh Drive, and the silence around it is the same silence Crotty knew. It is the kind of detail that makes Kilmacthomas more than a coffee stop on a bike trail.

Population
~1,768
Walk score
Top of the village to the viaduct in ten minutes
Founded
Workhouse 1850; viaduct 1878
Coords
52.2056° N, 7.4222° W
01 / 08

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 08

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Danny's Bar

Locals, five generations
Pub, foodstore & off-licence on Main Street

Officially D. Kirwan / Mulhearne, known to everyone as Danny's. The same family have kept the village fed and watered since 1850. Pub, deli, off-licence under one roof. Soup-and-sandwich at the bar at lunchtime; pints in the evening.

Rockett's Bar

Steady, Greenway-friendly
Pub & food on Main Street

Used to be Kiersey's Bar and Tearoom; same building, new name, same idea. Food until 4pm most days, pints later, a roofed seating area outside for Greenway cyclists who don't want to take the lycra indoors.

03 / 08

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Coach House Coffee Café in the Famine Workhouse The named coffee stop on the Greenway, set inside the restored Workhouse complex. Hand-roasted coffee, loose-leaf tea, scones and traybakes that the Lycra crowd levels by mid-afternoon. The setting is the point — you are drinking flat whites in a Famine building.
Danny's foodstore Deli, soup, sandwiches The off-licence side of Danny's Bar runs as a deli through the day. Homemade soup, sandwiches, things to take onto the Greenway. Open from 7am, six days a week — the only proper early-morning option in the village.
Rockett's kitchen Pub kitchen €€ Pub food until 4pm. Chowder, toasties, a roast on a Sunday. Not a destination dinner; a proper feed after a 25 km cycle, which is the use case.
04 / 08

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

A highwayman in the Comeraghs

Crotty the Robber

William Crotty led a gang of Tories and rapparees through Waterford, Tipperary and Kilkenny from about 1738. He shod his horses backwards to confuse pursuers, hid in a cave above what is now Crotty's Lake, and gave away enough of his takings to be remembered as a Robin Hood figure. He was betrayed by a partner's wife, captured after a struggle in which he was shot in the mouth, and hanged in Waterford on 18 March 1742. His head was spiked over the jail gate. His wife Mary is said to have thrown herself from Crotty's Rock above the lake. The Dictionary of Irish Biography reckons she was probably transported instead. Take the version you like; both are true to the place.

A Famine building, reused

The Workhouse

The Kilmacthomas Poor Law Union was created on 7 June 1850, late in the Famine sequence — most workhouses were built in the early 1840s; this one was a backfill. George Wilkinson, the Commissioners' architect, drew it. Construction cost £5,650 plus £955 for fittings. The first admissions were in 1853. It closed in 1919 and limped through the twentieth century as a fever hospital, a creamery store, anything that needed walls. The Greenway gave it a third act in 2017: Coach House Coffee in the front, bike hire in the yard, falconry in the outbuildings, seventy jobs on a six-acre site.

46 km of railway, reborn

The Greenway

The Waterford and Mallow line ran through Kilmacthomas from the 1870s; the eight-arch stone viaduct over the Mahon was finished in 1878. Passenger services ended in 1967. The track was lifted, the bridges held, and for half a century the corridor went to seed. The Waterford Greenway opened in March 2017 along the old bed and the country took to it almost immediately — a quarter of a million users in the first nine months. Kilmacthomas, halfway along, was the village that benefited most. The Workhouse complex was already there, waiting for a use.

Stone the railway left behind

The Mahon viaducts

The Kilmacthomas viaduct is the postcard but it is not the only one. The line crosses the Mahon valley on a sequence of stone arches, the longest of them at Kilmacthomas itself; it runs through the Ballyvoile tunnel a few kilometres west, and over a second viaduct beyond. Walking or cycling the Greenway is the easiest engineering history lesson in Ireland — the Victorian railway builders did not waste a metre of stone, and the route has been left almost exactly as they laid it.

05 / 08

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

The Waterford Greenway — Kilmacthomas section The two best halves of the Greenway both start here. East to Kilmeaden runs through the Comeragh foothills with the river below. West to Durrow goes through the Ballyvoile tunnel and out to the coast. Hire a bike at the Workhouse and pick a direction.
13.5 km east / 12 km westdistance
1 hour each way by biketime
Kilmacthomas viaduct & village loop Out from the Workhouse car park, onto the Greenway, across the eight-arch viaduct over the Mahon, down to the village, back up the Main Street. The shortest version of the place that still shows you the bones of it.
~3 kmdistance
45 minutestime
Mahon Falls Drive 25 minutes into the Comeraghs via Mahon Bridge and the Comeragh Drive. An 80-metre waterfall in a glacial corrie, a gravel path to the foot of it, and the road in is half the show. Best after rain.
1.5 km return on footdistance
40 minutes plus the drivetime
Crotty's Lake Off the Comeragh Drive, into the high ground above Kilrossanty. A rougher walk than Mahon Falls, mostly on bog and rock, ending at a small mountain lake under a cliff. The cliff is Crotty's Rock. Bring a map; the path is not signposted.
~5 km returndistance
2 hourstime
06 / 08

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

The Greenway is open and not yet busy. Lambs in the fields above the viaduct. Mahon Falls in full flow off the winter rain.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

Bike-hire weekends book out. Coach House Coffee has a queue out the door by eleven. Long evenings on the Greenway are the compensation.

◐ Mind yourself
Autumn
Sep–Oct

The Comeraghs go orange. Greenway empties. The pubs get back to themselves. The locals' season.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

Coach House Coffee shortens its hours; some bike hire pauses. The Greenway in January, with frost on the viaduct, is yours alone if you have the gear.

◐ Mind yourself
07 / 08

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Driving up to do the viaduct as a photo stop

You can see it from the car park in three minutes and you have learned nothing. Walk a kilometre east on the Greenway and look back at it; that is the view that makes the trip.

×
The Greenway in one day on foot

46 km on a flat tarmac corridor is a slog and Kilmacthomas is the only proper midway stop. Cycle it, or split it over two days and overnight here.

×
Looking for Crotty's Lake without a map

The path is not waymarked from the road. People wander the wrong contour every weekend. Use a 1:50,000 sheet or a GPS track. The lake hides until you are above it.

×
A coach-stop visit to the Workhouse

A toilet break and a flat white is not a Famine workhouse visit. Take the guided tour, or read the boards properly, or come back when you have an hour.

+

Getting there.

By car

Waterford City to Kilmacthomas is 30 minutes on the N25. Dungarvan is 20 minutes the same road. The village is signposted off the N25 — you go in, not past.

By bus

Bus Éireann 40 (Cork–Waterford–Rosslare) and the Local Link routes serve Kilmacthomas. Several services daily. The stop is on Main Street.

By train

No station. The line that became the Greenway shut to passengers in 1967. Nearest station is Waterford (Plunkett), then bus or Greenway.

By air

Cork (ORK) is 1h 45m by car. Dublin is 2h 30m. Waterford Airport currently has limited service; check before booking.