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CO. WATERFORD · IE

Tallow
Tulach an Iarainn

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 06 / 06
Tulach an Iarainn · Co. Waterford

A market town on the Bride that turns out for one day a year and goes back to the fields.

Tallow is a small market town in west Waterford, on the River Bride, eight kilometres south of Lismore and five kilometres north of the Cork border. It does not pretend to be a tourist town. The square has a few shops, the Catholic church on Chapel Street has a tower added in 1868, and the Carnegie library sits where it was put down in 1909. The population in 2022 was 1,022. That is the size of the place.

What Tallow has is a history out of proportion to its present. The town's Irish name — Tulach an Iarainn, the hillock of the iron — points at smelting that went on here long before Sir Walter Raleigh was granted the seigniory in 1587 and laid out a settlement of sixty buildings as part of the Munster Plantation. That settlement burned in the rising of 1598, the lands passed to Richard Boyle in 1602, and the Boyle family — Earls of Cork, then Dukes of Devonshire — held the ground for the next three centuries. The grid of streets is the second draft of an English town that didn't quite take.

The other thing that puts Tallow on a map is the horse fair. It has been held here on the third of September every year since 1904, except for the two pandemic years, and it pulls horses, dealers, and a wide cross-section of the country into a town that's normally happy to be left alone. If you come on any other day, the place is what it is — a service town for the farms around it, a few good pubs, and the Bride running quietly past the bridge.

Population
1,022
Walk score
End to end in eight minutes
Founded
Re-laid by Sir Walter Raleigh's planters, 1580s
Coords
52.0895° N, 8.0040° W
01 / 06

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 06

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Clancy's Bar & Guesthouse

Family-run, local
Pub & guesthouse

On Barrack Street. Five generations of Clancys. Was the Devonshire Arms before that. The old Bianconi coach stop on the Youghal–Waterford road; the bones are 1860s and you can feel it.

Eamonn's Place

Quiet pint
Local bar

A regulars' pub. The kind where you say hello on the way in or you don't, but you get the same pint either way.

03 / 06

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

The Munster Plantation, 1587–1602

Raleigh's town

Sir Walter Raleigh was granted three and a half seigniories in Cork and Waterford in 1587 — 42,000 acres including Tallow, Mogeely, Conna and Lisfinny — for 100 marks a year. He laid out a planted town here of sixty houses, settled English tenant families, and built up an iron works and saw mills on the Bride. In autumn 1598 the Munster rebellion swept through and Raleigh's Tallow was burned. He never came back. In 1602 he sold the lot to Richard Boyle, the future Earl of Cork, for £1,500. Boyle made the fortune Raleigh had failed to.

Aonach Capall Tulach an Iarainn

The horse fair

The Tallow Horse Fair has been held on the third of September — or the following Monday if it falls on a weekend — every year since 1904. Two pandemic years aside, the run is unbroken. Horses are sold off the streets the old way, in cash, with a slap on the hand to seal a deal. By mid-afternoon the town is wedged. By evening it has emptied again. It is one of the oldest livestock fairs still going in Ireland and it is not laid on for visitors — show up, stand back, watch.

A border town that doesn't act like one

Five kilometres from Cork

The Cork–Waterford boundary runs through fields just south of Tallow, and the town has always faced both ways. The Bianconi coaches ran Youghal–Waterford through here. The N72 still does. Most people in Tallow have business in Fermoy or Youghal as often as in Dungarvan. Lisfinny Castle, the 15th-century Desmond tower house overlooking the town from the north, sits in Waterford; Conna Castle, on the same Bride a few miles upstream, sits in Cork. The river doesn't know the difference. Neither, most days, does the town.

04 / 06

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

The Bride valley is at its best. Lambs in the fields, light evenings creeping back in. Quiet.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

Still quiet. The Blackwater Valley around Lismore is a short hop. A useful base if Lismore and Cappoquin are full.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep–Oct

Fair day on the third of September is the day to come. Otherwise late September is a fine, settled time in west Waterford.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

The town shrinks back to itself. Pubs open, not much else. Pleasant if you want nothing and are happy to find it.

◐ Mind yourself
05 / 06

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Looking for a hotel in Tallow

There isn't one. Clancy's does rooms; otherwise base in Lismore (8km) or Fermoy (16km) and drive in.

×
Looking for a restaurant

The eating in Tallow is pub food and takeaways. For a sit-down dinner, it's Lismore or Fermoy. Don't be cross about it — that's just the size of the town.

×
Driving in for fair day if you don't like crowds

Tallow on September 3rd is loud, packed, and full of horses. That's the point. If it's not your thing, come on the 4th.

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Getting there.

By car

On the N72 between Fermoy (16km west, 20 min) and Lismore (8km north, 12 min). Youghal is 20km south on the R634 — a pretty run down the Bride and the Blackwater estuary.

By bus

Bus Éireann route 360 (Dungarvan–Cork) and the 245 (Lismore–Fermoy) both call. A handful of services daily; check Transport for Ireland for the day you want.

By train

No station. Mallow (45 min by car) is the nearest mainline stop on the Cork–Dublin line.

By air

Cork Airport (ORK) is 55 minutes by car. Waterford Airport is closer on a map but has almost no scheduled flights.