An Móta · Co. Westmeath
A long Main Street, a Norman motte behind it, and three centuries of Quaker thrift in the brickwork.
Moate is a long market town strung along the old Dublin-Galway road, halfway between Athlone and Mullingar. The Normans built the motte in the twelfth century, the Quakers built the wealth in the seventeenth, and the N6 bypassed the lot of it in 2008. The bypass was the best thing that ever happened to Main Street - the trucks went away and the town came back.
What you need to know: the Quakers are the story. Friends from Tipperary settled here in the 1650s, the Clibborn family built a meeting-house in 1692 and made the town a centre for woollens and frieze cloth. The meeting-house is a ruin now, but it's still there, and the burial ground beside it is still legible. A handful of plain-fronted Quaker houses sit on Main Street - once you know what to look for, you can't unsee them.
Don't come for a checklist. Come for an afternoon. Walk the Main Street, find the motte, drive out to Dún na Sí for the folk village and a turn around the lake, then back to town for a pint. If it's the last Sunday in August, the Agricultural Show is on - 182 years of bullocks, baking and bunting. If it's any other day, it's a working town doing what working towns do.