County Wicklow Ireland · Co. Wicklow · Kiltegan Save · Share
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KILTEGAN
CO. WICKLOW · IE

Kiltegan
Cill Téagáin, Co. Wicklow

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 07 / 07
Cill Téagáin · Co. Wicklow

A small west Wicklow village with two outsized claims: the Kiltegan Fathers who run missions across Africa from a house up the road, and Humewood Castle, the granite folly that bankrupted its architect.

Kiltegan is a small village in the south-west corner of Wicklow, close enough to the Carlow border that the line runs through the next few fields. The name is Cill Téagáin, the church of Tegan, after a 5th-century saint said to have been a disciple of St Patrick - which is about as far back as the story goes, and about as quiet as the place has stayed since.

Two things made Kiltegan known well beyond its size. The first is the Kiltegan Fathers. St Patrick's Missionary Society was founded here on St Patrick's Day in 1932, in a house and twenty acres given by a tea merchant named John Hughes, and the order took the village's name to mission stations all over Africa. The mother house is still up at High Park, about two kilometres out, with a retirement home for older members and a wind turbine on the hill. The headquarters moved to Nairobi in 2015, but the connection is in the bones of the place.

The second is Humewood. A short way outside the village stands one of the strangest great houses in Ireland - a High Victorian Gothic pile in pale granite, all turrets and angles, built between 1867 and 1870 for the local MP William Hume-Dick. It is more famous for how it was built than for how it looks: quoted at fifteen thousand pounds, it cost twenty-five, and the builder's claim for the difference became a landmark case in building law that bankrupted the architect. The house has changed hands several times since and is now a private estate. You cannot wander in.

For the visitor, Kiltegan is a heritage stop and a base for the hills rather than a destination in itself. There is one pub on Main Street, a GAA club shared with the neighbouring village of Rathdangan, and the quiet that comes with being a few hundred people in farming country. If you want a pint, a story, and a back road into the Wicklow uplands, it does the job honestly.

Population
A few hundred (no separate CSO census-town figure; ~136 in the village in the 1837 survey)
Pubs
1and counting
Founded
Early Christian church site attributed to St Tegan, a 5th-century disciple of St Patrick
Coords
52.9043° N, 6.6067° W
01 / 07

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 07

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Talk of the Town

The pub in the village - and it is the only one
Village pub, Main Street

On Main Street in the centre of the village. This is Kiltegan's pub, full stop. A proper rural Wicklow local rather than a gastro stop - a pint, a fire, and whoever is in. Do not arrive expecting a choice; expecting a welcome is more realistic. If you want a second option you are looking at Byrne's in Rathdangan, the sister village, or a ten-minute drive to Baltinglass.

03 / 07

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

St Patrick's Day, 1932

The Kiltegan Fathers

St Patrick's Missionary Society - known the world over as the Kiltegan Fathers - was founded in the village on 17 March 1932 by Monsignor Patrick Whitney. The story starts earlier, with a 1920 appeal to Maynooth students for priests to serve in Nigeria; Kiltegan became the base when a tea merchant, John Hughes, gave an old house and twenty acres of land to the cause. From that hillside the order spread missions across Africa through the middle of the 20th century, and a small Wicklow village lent its name to priests working thousands of miles away. The society moved its headquarters to Nairobi in 2015, but the mother house at High Park, about two kilometres from the village, remains - now with a retirement home for older members and a wind turbine on the ridge above it.

Quoted at £15,000, built for £25,000

Humewood and the lawsuit that broke an architect

Humewood Castle is the kind of building that gets architects talked about for the wrong reasons. The English architect William White designed it for William Hume-Dick, MP for Wicklow, as a granite shooting retreat, and built it between 1867 and 1870 in a riot of High Victorian Gothic - turrets, a round tower, an angular tower, granite walls thick enough to last centuries. The trouble was the bill. White had quoted around fifteen thousand pounds; the finished house cost roughly twenty-five. When Hume-Dick refused to pay the difference, the builder, Albert Kimberley of Banbury, sued - and after a five-year battle won his claim with costs. The case became a landmark in architectural and building-contract law. White's career never recovered and he died without another major commission. The house stayed with the Hume family until 1992, was run for a while as an exclusive private hotel, and was bought by the American media billionaire John Malone in 2012. It is a private estate today, not open to casual visitors, though it has doubled as a film location for the likes of Ella Enchanted and Laws of Attraction.

A 5th-century saint and a 1973 win

St Tegan and the Tidy Towns trophy

The village takes its name from Cill Téagáin, the church of Tegan, after a saint local tradition makes a disciple of St Patrick in the 5th century - the original reason there is a settlement here at all. The honours have been thinner on the ground since, but Kiltegan did take the national Tidy Towns title in 1973, which in a village this size is a story the older locals will still tell you. The GAA club, fielding football, hurling and camogie and drawing players from the neighbouring village of Rathdangan, is the other thread that holds the place together through the year.

04 / 07

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Village and Main Street stroll Short and honest. The village is small - Main Street, the church, the pub, the war memorial green - and you will see most of it in twenty minutes. Worth doing slowly for the feel of a quiet west Wicklow village that has not been prettified for anyone.
1 kmdistance
20 minutestime
Back roads toward High Park A quiet country-road walk out toward the High Park direction where the Kiltegan Fathers' mother house sits, about two kilometres from the village. The grounds are the order's private property, so this is a walk for the lanes and the hill views rather than the buildings. Boots and an eye for traffic on narrow roads.
4 km returndistance
1 hourtime
Into the south Wicklow hills Kiltegan sits at the foot of the south Wicklow uplands, the country that climbs north and east toward the high Wicklow Mountains. There is no single waymarked village loop here - this is a base for driving or walking up into the hills around Rathdangan and the upper Slaney country. Bring a proper map; the marked long-distance routes are further into the range.
Variesdistance
Half a daytime
05 / 07

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

The hill country greens up and the back roads are at their best. Quiet, mild and uncrowded - the right time for a heritage-and-hills day out of Baltinglass.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Long evenings and the GAA season in full swing. Still very quiet by tourist standards; this is not a place that fills up. Good for using as a calm base while you explore west Wicklow.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

Crisp light on the granite and the hills turning. A good month for the country roads and a fire in the pub afterwards.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Short days and weather coming off the uplands. The village keeps going but there is little to do indoors beyond the one pub. Check that anything you are driving for is actually open.

◐ Mind yourself
06 / 07

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Turning up to tour Humewood Castle

It is a private estate, owned privately and not open for casual visits. You can read about it and glimpse it from the road, but there is no ticket office and no tour. Admire the story, not the gate lodge.

×
Expecting a night out

Kiltegan has one pub. There is no cluster of bars, no restaurant strip, no music trail. That is not a criticism - it is a small farming village - but plan your evening around Baltinglass or further afield if you want choice.

×
Confusing the village with the mother house

The Kiltegan Fathers' headquarters at High Park is about two kilometres outside the village and is the order's private property. The name is shared; the address is not. Do not drive up the avenue expecting a visitor centre.

+

Getting there.

By car

Baltinglass to Kiltegan is about 10 minutes south-east on the R747. Hacketstown (Co. Carlow) is about 10 minutes further along the same road. Tinahely is roughly 15 minutes south-east. From Dublin allow about 1 hour 15 minutes via the N81 to Baltinglass.

By bus

TFI Local Link route WW10 (Carnew to Baltinglass, via Shillelagh, Tinahely, Crossbridge, Hacketstown and Kiltegan) calls at the village. Two return services a day, Monday to Friday only - no weekend service. Check current times with Local Link before relying on it.

By train

No railway. The nearest useful stations are on the Dublin lines well to the north and east; in practice you reach Kiltegan by car or the Local Link bus.