Baile an Chinnéidigh · Co. Wicklow
A 19-letter place name and a five-star golf resort two kilometres from a commuter village main street. Only one of those things is easy to explain.
Newtownmountkennedy is an honest place. It will not pretend to be a destination village with a market square and an artisan cheese shop. It is a commuter town on the N11 corridor, built largely on houses that went up quickly when Dublin expanded south in the 2000s, and its main street carries the evidence: a pub, another pub, a takeaway, a pharmacy. That is not a criticism. It is simply the shape of the place.
The name is the first thing to reckon with. Nineteen letters. Sir Robert Kennedy, a legal officer in the Court of the Exchequer, arrived in Upper Newcastle parish in the 1620s, bought land steadily through that decade and the 1630s, and was made a baronet in 1665. His estate became the Manor of Mount Kennedy. The settlement nearby already had 'Newtown' in its name - one of dozens of newtowns scattered across the island from the plantation era - and over time the two halves fused. The first record of 'Newtownmountkennedy' as a single word dates to the early 1670s. The last male Kennedy owner of the estate died in 1710, but the name stayed. Today people who live here call it NTMK.
Two kilometres from the main street, down a road off the N11, sits Druids Glen Golf Resort - five stars, 360 acres, two championship courses, a spa and an 18-metre pool, and Hugo's Restaurant. The original Druids Glen course opened in 1995 and immediately began hosting the Irish Open: Colin Montgomerie won in 1996 and again in 1997, David Carter in 1998, and in 1999 a nineteen-year-old Sergio Garcia took the title for what was his first win as a professional. The Druids Heath course opened in 2003. The resort sits in a different category to the village - a different price point, a different clientele, a different sense of what Wicklow is for. The two exist in parallel and rarely touch.
The village pubs carry the social weight that most Irish village pubs carry. The Mount Kennedy Inn on the main street is the gastropub of the group, under new management since late 2021 and cooking seasonal food - seafood chowder, Wicklow brie, weekend roasts. The Druids Well is the traditional option, with live music most Saturday and Sunday nights. The Parkview Hotel on the edge of town has Nanny Kelly's Bar if you want something in a hotel context. None of this adds up to a food destination, but it adds up to a functioning village with a place to eat and a place to drink, which is what most people living here need from it.