County Wicklow Ireland · Co. Wicklow · Ashford Save · Share
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ASHFORD
CO. WICKLOW · IE

Ashford
Áth na Fuinseoige, Co. Wicklow

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 01 / 03
Áth na Fuinseoige · Co. Wicklow

The Walpole family spent 112 years building one of Ireland's great informal gardens on a river they didn't own.

Ashford sits on the old coaching road between Dublin and Wexford, forty-two kilometres south of the city. The 2004 N11 bypass moved the heavy traffic away from the village square, which makes the place quieter than it used to be, without making it much more interesting in itself. The reason to stop is Mount Usher Gardens, and that reason is a substantial one.

Edward Walpole took a lease on a small plot beside the River Vartry in 1868 and began planting it according to William Robinson's principles - no parterres or symmetry, no carpet bedding, just plants placed where the soil and water and light suited them. His sons took over the lease in 1875 and pushed the garden outward through additional land purchases until it reached twenty acres. The Walpole family stayed for four generations and 112 years, bringing in species from across the southern hemisphere and Asia - Chilean fire trees, Himalayan rhododendrons, Japanese maples - and threading them through each other along the banks of the Vartry. Madeleine Jay bought the estate from the family in 1979. Avoca has managed the gardens under lease since 2007, and they have kept the ground essentially intact while building a café and small courtyard at the entrance. The 5,000-plus plant species are still there, still arranged in the way the Walpoles left them.

Two kilometres from the village, the Vartry enters Devil's Glen - a steep wooded gorge where the river drops into a pool called the Devil's Punchbowl. Before the Vartry Reservoir was built in the 1860s, the waterfall was reportedly much louder than it is today. Seamus Heaney rented the gate lodge on the Glanmore Estate here in the early 1970s, a few years after leaving Belfast. The Glanmore Sonnets came out of that time - poems dense with Wicklow farmland, the river, the fieldwork of being a writer in a landscape he did not grow up in. A 4 km loop through the forest above the glen is now named for him, with benches carved with stanzas from his work set at intervals along the trail.

The village itself has the Chester Beatty Inn - a coaching inn building dating to 1854, now a hotel and restaurant - and the Woodpecker on Ashford Square for a drink after the gardens. The serious sleep option for the area is Tinakilly House in Rathnew, a Victorian mansion built in 1883 for Captain Robert Halpin, who commanded the ship that laid the first durable transatlantic telegraph cable. The house is now a 4-star country house hotel with gardens running toward Wicklow Bay.

Population
~1,892 (Census 2022)
Walk score
Flat village centre; Devil's Glen is hilly forest terrain
Founded
N11 bypass opened 2004; village on the old Dublin-Wexford coaching road
Coords
52.9975° N, 6.1017° W
01 / 09

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

01 Mount Usher Gardens

Twenty acres of Robinsonian planting on the River Vartry, started in 1868.

Edward Walpole - a Dublin Quaker businessman - took a lease on a small plot beside the Vartry in 1868 and began planting. Four generations of the Walpole family expanded the estate to twenty acres and introduced more than 5,000 plant species from China, Japan, the Himalayas, Chile, New Zealand and North America. The approach followed William Robinson's principle of informal, naturalistic planting rather than the clipped formality of Victorian bedding schemes. The family sold in 1979; Avoca has managed the gardens under lease since 2007. They are open year-round.

Walks & trails →
02 Devil's Glen

A river gorge, a waterfall, and a walking trail named for a Nobel laureate.

The Vartry drops into a pool called the Devil's Punchbowl at the west end of the gorge - the roar from this waterfall, before the Vartry Reservoir was built in the 1860s, was reportedly loud enough to carry across the county. Two waymarked loops run through the forest: the Waterfall Walk (5 km, red markers) and the Seamus Heaney Walk (4 km, yellow markers), the latter named for the poet who lived at the Glanmore gate lodge - on this estate - in the early 1970s and wrote his Glanmore Sonnets in the fields around it.

Walks & trails →
03 Captain Halpin and Tinakilly

A Victorian mansion built for the man who cabled Europe to America.

Tinakilly House in Rathnew, two kilometres from Ashford, was built in 1883 for Captain Robert Halpin, commander of the Great Eastern, the ship that laid 2,600 miles of telegraphic cable across the Atlantic in 1866. The house is now a 4-star hotel with 51 rooms, seven acres of gardens, and Brunel Restaurant - named for the engineer who designed the Great Eastern.

Where to sleep →
02 / 09

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Chester Beatty Inn

Traditional, all-day, good for food after the gardens
Hotel bar and restaurant, Ashford village

Established in the early 1800s as a hardware and grocery store, converted to a coaching inn in 1854. Now a hotel bar and restaurant under owners Padraig and Mari Humby. The dinner menu runs to beef and Guinness pie, fish and chips, and grilled steaks. Open 8am to 9pm daily.

The Woodpecker

Sports bar, live music weekends, local crowd
Traditional pub, Ashford Square, Ballinalea Road

Family-run traditional pub on Ashford Square. Live music on Saturdays and Sundays from local artists. Live sport on screen. Sunday carvery from 2pm. The straightforward pub option in the village, without the hotel context of the Chester Beatty.

03 / 09

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Chester Beatty Inn Restaurant Hotel restaurant, Ashford village €€ The most complete dining room in the village. Irish and European cooking - Guinness pie, fish and chips, steaks, seasonal specials. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily.
Avoca Café at Mount Usher Gardens Café, within Mount Usher Gardens The Avoca café operates within the gardens entrance courtyard. Good for lunch or coffee before or after a walk through the estate. Soups, salads, hot dishes, baking. Open during garden hours.
N11 at the Ashford House Bar and restaurant, Ashford village €€ Modern bar and restaurant on the main road through the village. Pizza, burgers, steaks, sandwiches - the more casual option if the Chester Beatty is full.
04 / 09

Where to sleep.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Tinakilly Country House 4-star country house hotel, Rathnew (2 km from Ashford) Built in 1883 for Captain Robert Halpin on an oak-lined avenue, the house has 51 rooms, seven acres of landscaped gardens, and views toward Wicklow Bay and Broadlough Bird Sanctuary. The Brunel Restaurant is the formal dining room. The choice for the area if budget allows. Book directly at tinakilly.ie.
Chester Beatty Inn Hotel, Ashford village Rooms above the coaching inn bar and restaurant in Ashford village. En suite, free WiFi, private parking. Convenient for Mount Usher Gardens and the Devil's Glen trailhead. The practical mid-range option for the village itself.
05 / 09

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Four generations and 5,000 species

The Walpoles and the Robinsonian Garden

Edward Walpole was a Dublin Quaker from a linen manufacturing family. In 1868 he took a lease on a small disused mill plot beside the River Vartry in Ashford and began planting it. His model was William Robinson's vision of the naturalistic garden - plants chosen for where they would actually thrive, placed informally among each other rather than arranged in the geometric beds and parterres of the dominant Victorian style. Seven years later, in 1875, Walpole transferred the lease to his four sons: Thomas, George, William White, and Edward. They expanded the estate through additional land purchases until it reached twenty acres, and they began importing plant material from across the world - China, Japan, the Himalayas, Chile, New Zealand, North America. The result was a garden where a Chilean fire bush might grow beside a Japanese maple beside a Himalayan rhododendron, all threaded along the banks of the Vartry in a way that looked accidental and took decades of deliberate decision-making. The Walpole family owned and managed the garden for 112 years. Madeleine Jay bought the estate in 1979. Avoca took the management lease in 2007 and has kept the planting essentially as the family left it. Mount Usher is recognised as one of the earliest and finest surviving examples of a Robinsonian garden in Ireland.

The Wicklow man who wired the world

Captain Halpin and the Atlantic Cable

Robert Halpin was born in Wicklow town in 1836, went to sea as a boy, and rose to command the Great Eastern - the largest ship in the world when it was launched in 1858, designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunel. In 1866 Halpin commanded the Great Eastern as it laid 2,600 miles of telegraphic cable across the floor of the Atlantic, connecting Ireland's Valentia Island to Heart's Content in Newfoundland. The cable worked. It was the first durable transatlantic telegraph connection, and it compressed communication between Europe and North America from weeks to minutes. Halpin continued laying submarine cables across the world's oceans through the 1870s - Indian Ocean, Red Sea, Persian Gulf. The British government built him Tinakilly House in Rathnew in 1883 as recognition of his service. He died in 1894, aged 57. Tinakilly has been a hotel since 1982. The restaurant is named Brunel, for the engineer who designed the ship that made Halpin's career.

The gate lodge, the sonnets, and the Devil's Glen

Heaney at Glanmore

In 1972, Seamus Heaney left his lectureship at Queen's University Belfast and moved with his family to a rented gate lodge on the Glanmore Estate - the land that contains what is now the Devil's Glen forest park, above Ashford. He had recently published Wintering Out and was working through a period of writing that would produce some of his most important poems. The Glanmore Sonnets, published in Field Work in 1979, came out of this time - ten poems about the life of a working writer in a Wicklow farmscape, the hedgerows and harvests and river sounds, the difficulty of making a language that fit the place. The collection carries an Ordnance Survey map of Glanmore on its cover. Heaney bought the cottage outright in 1988 and used it as a writing retreat for the rest of his life. He was awarded the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1995. A 4 km walking loop through the Devil's Glen forest is now named for him, with benches carved with stanzas from his poems set at intervals along the trail. He died in Dublin in 2013.

06 / 09

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Mount Usher Gardens The paths through the garden follow the course of the Vartry through the estate, with suspension bridges crossing the river between different sections of planting. Spring is the strongest season - rhododendrons and magnolias through April and May - though the garden holds interest across all seasons with its tree canopy and specimen plantings. Admission charged; check mountushergardens.ie for current prices and hours. Open year-round except Christmas Day and St Stephen's Day.
20 acres of informal paths along the River Vartrydistance
1-2 hourstime
Devil's Glen - Waterfall Walk Red-waymarked trail through the Devil's Glen forest, dropping to the gorge where the Vartry enters the glen and falls into the Devil's Punchbowl. Moderate terrain - the descent to the waterfall is steep in places. Mixed woodland of beech, Spanish chestnut, and ash, with contemporary sculpture by Irish and international artists placed through the forest. Park at the Coillte car park off the R763, north of Ashford. No admission charge.
5 km loopdistance
2 hourstime
Devil's Glen - Seamus Heaney Walk Yellow-waymarked trail named for the poet who lived at the Glanmore gate lodge in the early 1970s. The loop climbs through the high forest above the glen and is punctuated by wooden benches carved with stanzas from Heaney's poems, including lines from the Glanmore Sonnets. Moderate terrain. Same car park as the Waterfall Walk.
4 km loopdistance
2 hourstime
07 / 09

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

The peak season for Mount Usher Gardens. Rhododendrons, magnolias, and cherry species are at their best through April and May. The Devil's Glen is at its greenest and least crowded before the school holidays. The Vartry is running well from winter rain.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

The gardens draw numbers in July and August, and the Devil's Glen car park fills on sunny weekends. The village itself stays quiet by comparison. Book Tinakilly and the Chester Beatty ahead - the east Wicklow coast fills from Dublin on summer weekends.

◐ Mind yourself
Autumn
Sep-Oct

The tree canopy in the gardens and the Devil's Glen turns through September and October. Tourist numbers ease significantly after August. The Vartry runs stronger with the autumn rain, which improves the waterfall. Accommodation prices drop after the peak.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Mount Usher stays open year-round, closed Christmas Day and St Stephen's Day only. The garden is quieter and worth visiting for its structure and tree forms. The Devil's Glen trails can be muddy and slippery after heavy rain - proper footwear is not optional. The village is very quiet from November onward.

◐ Mind yourself
08 / 09

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Driving through without stopping at the gardens

The N11 bypass means Ashford is easy to pass without seeing. Mount Usher Gardens is on the main street through the village - allow at least ninety minutes, go in through the Avoca entrance, and do not treat it as a five-minute look-around.

×
Treating Devil's Glen as a short detour

Both walks take a full two hours on ground that is steep in sections. Arriving at the car park expecting a thirty-minute stroll to the waterfall and back is a reliable way to see the worst of the gorge and miss the best of it.

×
Expecting a restaurant scene in the village

Ashford has the Chester Beatty and the Woodpecker, and the Avoca café for lunch at the gardens. That is the full picture. For dinner with options, Wicklow town is fifteen minutes south on the N11 and Greystones is twenty minutes north.

+

Getting there.

By car

Dublin city centre to Ashford is approximately 42 km - allow 45 minutes via the M11/N11 south. The village is just off the N11 at Junction 15; the 2004 bypass means you need to exit deliberately rather than pass through. Mount Usher Gardens is on the main street through the village. Devil's Glen car park is on the R763 north of Ashford, signposted from the village square.

By bus

Bus Éireann route 133 connects Ashford with Wicklow town to the south and Rathnew. The Dublin Coach route 003 runs between Dublin and Wexford via the N11 and stops near Ashford. Journey time from Dublin is approximately one hour. Check buseireann.ie for current timetables.