An Seanbhaile Mór · Co. Cork
A village of under two hundred people on the north bank of the Awbeg, with one pub, a landmark church built from a soldier's barracks, and the Nagle name written into the fields all round it.
Shanballymore sits on the north bank of the Awbeg, the river Edmund Spenser called the Mulla in The Faerie Queene, on the road that runs from Mallow toward Mitchelstown. It is small. The 2022 census counted 184 people. Locals call it Shanbla and have done for generations, which tells you something about how little fuss the place makes about itself.
The Irish name, An Seanbhaile Mór, means the big old town, and there is more truth in the 'old' than the 'big'. This is Nagle country - the Norman family who held the Awbeg valley from the Middle Ages, who left tower houses in the townlands at Ballinamona and on toward Annakisha and Killavullen, and who produced Nano Nagle, the eighteenth-century foundress of the Presentation Sisters. Children from Shanballymore were schooled by her order in Doneraile, five kilometres west.
The one building you cannot miss is the Church of Christ the King, up on the high ground in the middle of the village. It was built in 1933 out of cut limestone salvaged from the chapel of the army barracks in Buttevant - good stone given a second life. There is a pub, the Corner House, a national school, and the GAA club, and that is about the size of the village proper. An older bar, O'Farrell's, closed in 2005 and is gone now.
Do not come expecting a destination. Shanballymore is a quiet farming village you pass through between better-known stops - Doneraile and its deer park to the west, Castletownroche and Anne's Grove gardens to the south, Kildorrery to the east. Come for the church, the river, the Nagle history in the surrounding fields, and the particular pleasure of a place that is exactly what it looks like and no more. Mallow, with the restaurants and the train, is fifteen minutes away.