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BALLYGOWAN
CO. DOWN · IE

Ballygowan
Baile Mhic Gabhann

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 06 / 06
Baile Mhic Gabhann · Co. Down

A dormitory village where Ian Paisley is buried and the rest is commuter traffic.

Ballygowan is what the planners call a dormitory village. Three thousand people, ten miles south-east of Belfast, on the A22 between Comber and Saintfield, with a bridge in the middle of it over the River Blackwater. There is a square, two pubs, a primary school, a Spar, a few estates, and the buses for the city run through. That is the village in a paragraph and there is no harm in saying so.

It grew because the Belfast and County Down Railway put a station here in 1858 and kept it running for ninety-two years. When the line shut on 15 January 1950 the trackbed went under hedge and back garden, and the village should have shrunk. Instead the road took the railway's place, and a generation of Belfast commuters discovered that ten miles out the prices dropped and the schools were good. The post-war estates were the result. It has been growing quietly ever since.

The thing the wider world knows Ballygowan for is the grave. Ian Paisley — the Reverend Doctor, the Baron Bannside, the man who made the Free Presbyterian Church and then the DUP — is buried on a hillside at the Free Presbyterian church on the Belfast Road. Private funeral on 15 September 2014, a lone piper, no politicians invited. The stone is unornate. People still come quietly to see it, and the church keeps the gate open.

The other thing worth knowing is that there is a building at the south end of the village with 'The Time is Short' carved over the door. It is the old Olivet Home, put up by a grieving father in 1884, run as an orphanage for thirty-odd years, and now used as the Presbyterian church halls. Stop at the Chestnut Inn, walk the five minutes down to it, and you have done Ballygowan as honestly as it can be done.

Population
3,138 (2021 census)
Walk score
The Square to the old station site in five minutes
Founded
Bridge, inn and a dozen houses by the late 1700s; grew with the railway after 1858
Coords
54.5006° N, 5.7950° W
01 / 06

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 06

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Gourleys Bar and Venue

Local, live music
Pub on The Square

Robert Gourley's on the licence; everyone calls it Gourleys. 2–4 The Square. Live music at weekends, function room takes about eighty-five, beer garden out the back. The default pint in the village.

The Chestnut Inn

Carvery, country pub
Family-run bar & restaurant

Out the Carrickmannon Road, a mile from The Square. Public bar, sports bar, restaurant and bistro under one roof. Open Wednesday to Sunday — closed Mondays and Tuesdays. The Sunday lunch crowd is half of Ballygowan.

03 / 06

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Buried on the Belfast Road, 15 September 2014

Ian Paisley

Ian Richard Kyle Paisley — founder of the Free Presbyterian Church of Ulster in 1951, founder of the Democratic Unionist Party in 1971, First Minister of Northern Ireland from 2007 to 2008 — was buried in the graveyard of Ballygowan Free Presbyterian Church on Belfast Road on 15 September 2014. The funeral was private. There was a lone piper. The DUP leadership were not invited and neither were most of the Free Presbyterian church leaders he had fallen out with by the end. The grave is a simple stone on a hillside. The church keeps the gate open for anyone who wants to see it.

Open 10 September 1858, closed 15 January 1950

The railway

Ballygowan station sat on the Belfast and County Down Railway between Comber and Saintfield, on the line that ran from Queen's Quay in Belfast down to Newcastle. One platform on the south side, a level crossing at the Comber end, a goods shed added in 1898. The line closed in 1950 along with almost all of the BCDR — only the Bangor branch survived. The station building was demolished and replaced by a shop and a house. The goods shed is still standing, now used by a garage called Station Autos. The village owes its modern shape to the line that is no longer there.

A father, a son, a builder who fell

The Olivet Home

Alexander Orr Reid built the Olivet Home on the Comber Road in 1884–86 for £7,000, in memory of his only son, who had died suddenly — accounts at the time disagreed about whether it was a shooting accident or worse. Reid handed the building and seven acres to a trustee, vested in trust as a Home for Destitute Boys and Girls, and died before it was finished. By the 1911 census there were eighteen children — eight boys, ten girls, aged four to thirteen — and three staff. The orphanage closed in 1918 and the Presbyterian church bought it, ran it as the local school until the 1980s, and uses it now as the church halls. The inscription over the door reads 'The Time is Short'. The story is that a workman fell from the roof during construction and the words were carved for him.

A church founded in Crossgar, a grave in Ballygowan

The Free Presbyterians

Paisley's Free Presbyterian Church of Ulster was founded on 17 March 1951 at Lissara, Crossgar — eight miles south of here — after a row about a gospel mission. Five session members, all the Sunday school teachers and sixty congregants walked out. The Ballygowan church on the Belfast Road came later, one of the dozens of Free Presbyterian congregations that grew across Ulster through the 1960s and 70s. It was not Paisley's home congregation. He chose it for the grave for reasons the family have kept to themselves. The Ballygowan Presbyterian church on the Main Street — a separate denomination — has been here almost two hundred years and is the older root.

04 / 06

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

Hedges out, traffic light in the evenings, the bridge and the Blackwater at their best. A short detour off the A22 rather than a destination.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

Commuter traffic is heavy on the A22 morning and evening. The Square is busiest at school pick-up. Quieter on weekends if you avoid the rush.

◐ Mind yourself
Autumn
Sep–Oct

Sunday lunch at the Chestnut Inn season. The Free Presbyterian church is quietest around the Paisley anniversary on 12 September — go later in the month if you want a visit without crowds.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

Dark by half four. Both pubs still open. There is no village Christmas market, no festival, no reason to come unless you live here or are passing through to Strangford Lough.

◐ Mind yourself
05 / 06

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Looking for the Ballygowan Spring Water bottling plant

The bottled-water brand called Ballygowan is bottled at Newcastle West in County Limerick, not here. Different Ballygowan. The village in Down has no connection to the company.

×
A pilgrimage to the Paisley grave with a tour bus

The funeral was deliberately private and the church wants it left that way. Park considerately on the Belfast Road, walk in quietly, leave the same way. It is a working churchyard, not an attraction.

×
Hunting for the old railway station

It was demolished. There is a shop and a house on the site. The only surviving piece is the goods shed, now a garage. If you want a preserved BCDR station, drive twenty minutes south to Downpatrick where the heritage railway still runs steam.

×
Using Ballygowan as a base for Strangford Lough

You are inland by five miles and there is one pub on The Square. Killyleagh, Whiterock, or Comber give you the water, the boats, and somewhere to eat that is not a sports bar. Stay there, drive through here.

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Getting there.

By car

Belfast to Ballygowan is 25 minutes on the A22 — out past Dundonald, through Comber, three miles further south. Saintfield is four miles on. Downpatrick another twelve.

By bus

Translink Ulsterbus 12 and 512 run Belfast–Ballygowan–Saintfield–Downpatrick through the day. The 5b runs Comber–Ballygowan–Newtownards. Stops on The Square.

By train

No train. The Belfast and County Down line through Ballygowan closed in 1950. Nearest station is Belfast Central.

By air

Belfast City (BHD) is 25 minutes by car. Belfast International (BFS) is just under an hour.