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MONEYREAGH
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Moneyreagh
Mónaidh Riabhach

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 05 / 05
Mónaidh Riabhach · Co. Down

One church older than the United States, one weaver poet, one commuter road in.

Moneyreagh — Mónaidh Riabhach, the grey moor — is a small village of about fifteen hundred people on the back roads between Carryduff and Comber, six miles south-east of Belfast city centre. It is not on the main road between any two larger places; you turn off the Belfast-to-Ballygowan road and you find it. Most of the people who live here work in the city. Most of the people who don't live here will never go.

The village exists because of a religious argument three hundred years ago. In May 1719 a captain called William Hannyngton, of the local Hannyngton family, signed over an acre and a half of his land and half an acre of turf bog in perpetuity to three named men — Black, Stewart and Orr — for the use of a new congregation in the western part of Comber parish who wanted to set up their own meeting house. The barn-like first building was up by November of the same year. A more solid replacement went up in 1770. By the 1820s the congregation was at the centre of the Non-Subscribing controversy that split Ulster Presbyterianism — they opened their pulpit in 1821 to the Unitarian missionary John Smethurst, and stayed Non-Subscribing when the Remonstrant Synod formed under Henry Montgomery a decade later. The church is still here, still Non-Subscribing, still on the same acre.

The other thing to know is that Robert Huddleston, the Bard of Moneyrea, lived and farmed here and is buried in the graveyard. Born 1814, died 1887, one of the great voices of the Ulster-Scots rhyming weaver tradition. Two published collections, thousands of unpublished pages, never famous in his own lifetime. The plaque on the wall went up in April 2014 for the bicentenary of his birth, and the Ulster Folk Museum in Cultra has the papers. If you come for one thing, come for the meeting house and the grave together. They are twenty paces apart.

There is no pub in the village. The community centre on Church Road has a small coffee shop and is the social heart of the place. Rory McIlroy lived on a thirteen-acre property here from 2009 until he sold it in 2012 and moved to Florida; he had a custom practice green and a five-a-side pitch. The locals do not make a thing of it. The Mournes are forty minutes south, Strangford Lough is twenty minutes east, Belfast is twenty minutes north outside rush hour. Moneyreagh is the place between.

Population
1,594 (2021 census)
Walk score
Church to community centre in three minutes
Founded
Non-Subscribing Presbyterian meeting house granted 18 May 1719; village grew around it
Coords
54.5328° N, 5.8303° W
01 / 05

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 05

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Hannyngton, Black, Stewart and Orr

The 1719 grant

On 18 May 1719, Captain William Hannyngton — of the local landowning Hannyngton family, formerly an army officer — granted in perpetuity to three named trustees, David Black, Archibald Stewart and John Orr, an acre and a half of land and half an acre of turf bog at a nominal rent, for the use of inhabitants of some townlands in the western part of Comber parish who were separating themselves into a new congregation. The first meeting house — a barn-like building — was completed in November of that year. A more substantial second building replaced it in 1770. That second building, much altered, is the church still standing on the site today. It is the oldest continuously-used structure in the village by more than a century, and it is the reason there is a village here at all.

Smethurst, Montgomery and the split of 1830

The Non-Subscribing controversy

The Synod of Ulster in the 1820s tore itself apart over whether ministers should be required to subscribe to the Westminster Confession of Faith. The non-subscribing wing — broadly liberal, broadly Unitarian-leaning, led by Dr Henry Montgomery — was eventually driven out and formed the Remonstrant Synod of Ulster in 1830. Moneyreagh was one of only a handful of Synod of Ulster congregations to open its pulpit in 1821 to the visiting English Unitarian missionary John Smethurst — an act of doctrinal defiance that put it on the Non-Subscribing side of the split a decade before the split happened. The congregation went with Montgomery in 1830. In 1835 the Remonstrant Synod merged with the older Synod of Munster to form the Association of Irish Non-Subscribing Presbyterians, which is the body the church still belongs to today.

Robert Huddleston, 1814–1887

The Bard of Moneyrea

Robert Huddleston was born in Moneyreagh in 1814 and lived as a small farmer and handloom weaver here all his life. He wrote in the Ulster-Scots vernacular of the rhyming weaver tradition, called the language 'Ulster Irish' himself, and published two collections — Poems and Songs on Rural Subjects in 1844 and A Collection of Poems and Songs on Different Subjects in 1846. He left behind thousands more pages of poems, ballads, songs, novels and correspondence that never made it into print. He died on 15 February 1887, never famous, never wealthy, and is buried in the graveyard of the Non-Subscribing Presbyterian church. The plaque on the wall went up in April 2014 for the bicentenary of his birth. His surviving papers — most of his life's work — are held at the Ulster Folk Museum in Cultra, fifteen minutes north on the Bangor road.

Five thousand in a field

The 1859 revival sermon

On a Sunday in late August 1859, at the height of the Ulster Awakening, the Reverend J. M. Killen of Comber preached in the open air on a field beside the Non-Subscribing meeting house at Moneyreagh. The Banner of Ulster on 3 September 1859 reported upwards of five thousand people present, listening for over two hours, with a great number of physical prostrations during the service. The 1859 revival was largely an Evangelical Presbyterian phenomenon and the Non-Subscribing congregation here was, on doctrine, the opposite end of the room. The five thousand turned up anyway. It was the largest gathering this village has ever held, before or since.

2009 to 2012

Rory McIlroy lived here

In 2009 Rory McIlroy bought a house on thirteen acres in Moneyreagh, with a custom-made practice facility and a scaled-down five-a-side football pitch. He sold the property in September 2012 and bought a place in Palm Beach Gardens, Florida, in December of the same year, settling on Jupiter Island soon after. He grew up in Holywood and the Holywood Golf Club is his home club; the Moneyreagh house was his early-career base. The locals do not point the property out. It is on the edge of the village and you would not know.

03 / 05

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

Nothing in particular opens or closes seasonally here. The meeting house gate is open daylight hours. The community centre runs the same week year round.

◐ Mind yourself
Summer
Jun–Aug

The eleventh-night bonfire on the village green is a community fixture and the village is much busier and louder than usual on that one night. Otherwise summer is summer — long evenings, a quiet church graveyard, the same Belfast commute as any other season.

◐ Mind yourself
Autumn
Sep–Oct

The graveyard at the Non-Subscribing church is at its best in autumn light. If you came for Huddleston or the meeting house, October is when to come.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

Dark by half four, country roads in, the community centre coffee shop the only warm room in the village that is not someone's house. Drive carefully on the back roads in frost.

◐ Mind yourself
04 / 05

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Looking for a village pub

There isn't one. The nearest pints are at the Chestnut Inn out the Carrickmannon Road from Ballygowan, or in Comber, or at the Ivanhoe on the Saintfield Road. Moneyreagh is a dry village by accident — it never had one, it does not have one now.

×
A Rory McIlroy pilgrimage

The house is private, the locals do not point it out, and there is nothing to see. The Holywood Golf Club fifteen minutes north is the place to go for a McIlroy day.

×
Driving Moneyreagh Road at rush hour

The roads in are country roads and they back up either side of the morning and evening commute. The Belfast workers fill them by half eight and by five.

×
Confusing this with the village spelt Moneyrea

Moneyrea and Moneyreagh are the same place. The Wikipedia article uses Moneyreagh, the primary school is Moneyrea Primary, the Bard called himself the Bard of Moneyrea, the road sign uses Moneyreagh. Both are correct. Pick one and move on.

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Getting there.

By car

Belfast city centre to Moneyreagh is 20 minutes via the A24 to Carryduff and out the country road, outside rush hour. Comber is 4 miles east on the back roads. Carryduff is 3 miles west. The Mournes are 40 minutes south on the A24.

By bus

Translink Ulsterbus 12 and 512 run Belfast Laganside Buscentre to Raffrey and Ballygowan via Moneyreagh. The village stop is on Moneyreagh Road. Frequent during commuter hours, thinner the rest of the day, very thin on Sundays.

By train

No train. Northern Ireland Railways does not serve this side of Down. The nearest station is Belfast Lanyon Place; Bangor and Lisburn are the next options out.

By air

Belfast City (BHD) is 25 minutes by car. Belfast International (BFS) is 40 minutes.