Droim Bearach · Co. Down
A mill village under Slieve Croob, where the Lagan starts as a spring.
Dromara is a one-street village ten kilometres south-west of Ballynahinch, in the lap of Slieve Croob. The River Lagan - the one that ends up in Belfast Lough - starts as a spring on the hill above the village and runs straight through the middle of it. That is the whole geography in a sentence: hill behind, river through, road on.
There has been a church here since at least 1306. The present St John's, on the Banbridge Road, was rebuilt by Bishop Thomas Percy in 1811 after centuries of ruin, and got its chancel and transepts in 1896. The street pattern is older than the buildings, and the buildings are mostly early 19th century, which tells you what kind of place this is - a mill village that quietly outlived its mills and kept the road and the river and the hill.
Nobody comes to Dromara for Dromara. They come for the hill, or the dolmen, or both. Slieve Croob is the easy one - a tarmac road most of the way and a view from the summit that takes in the Mournes, Strangford, and on a clear day half of Down. Legananny Dolmen sits on the south-western flank of the same hill, in a farmer's field, with the Mournes lined up behind it like a backdrop somebody arranged. Park at the village, drive ten minutes out, walk the last bit, and you have done the thing.
Stay long enough for a pint at the Laganview, or a plate at Squareone, and the village fills in around the visit. It is not a destination. It is a base camp with a chimney.