Ros Treabhair · Co. Down
A square, a lough, a forest behind it, and two of the best mountain-bike trails on the island.
Rostrevor sits on the south flank of the Mournes where they slide down to Carlingford Lough. The square is the centre of everything - four pubs around it, the war memorial in the middle, the lough a two-minute walk down Shore Road. Behind the village the forest climbs up Slieve Martin and Slievebane, and somewhere up there is a granite boulder the size of a small house that a glacier carried from Scotland and a giant supposedly threw across the lough. Take whichever explanation suits the company.
Two things put Rostrevor on the modern map. The first is the mountain biking - the red and black trails through the forest are, by general consent of people who care about this, the best purpose-built MTB in Ireland. The second is the Fiddler’s Green festival, going since 1987, run by Tommy Sands and his family, five days of trad in mid-July when the village is unrecognisably busy. The rest of the year it is a quiet place with a serious walking habit and a tradition of music in the pubs that doesn’t need a festival to keep it going.
C.S. Lewis used to spend summers in the Mournes as a child and wrote later that the part of Rostrevor that overlooks Carlingford Lough was his idea of Narnia. The village has run with it - there is a Narnia Trail in the park with Mr Tumnus and the lamp post for the kids. Take the claim with a small pinch of salt (Lewis was Belfast-born and spent time all round the Mournes) but stand on the slope above the lough at dusk and you see what he meant.
Stay two nights. One is the village and the Fairy Glen. Two gets you up to the Cloughmore Stone and back down to a pint in Fearon’s. Three lets you do a proper walk on Slieve Martin or hire a bike. Festival weekend is a different beast - book months ahead, sleep in Warrenpoint or Omeath if you didn’t.