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SCARVA
CO. DOWN · IE

Scarva
Scarbhach

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 07 / 07
Scarbhach · Co. Down

Asleep for 364 days. On the 13th of July, the largest village in Ireland.

Scarva is a one-street village on the Newry Canal, hard against the County Armagh boundary, that for 364 days of the year is asleep. Population around seven hundred. A primary school, a railway halt with four trains, a visitor centre with a tearoom that closes on Mondays, a restaurant beside the bridge, the canal towpath running flat past the back gardens. That is the village.

On the 13th of July it is the largest village in Ireland. The Royal Black Institution holds its annual demonstration here, and at the centre of it is the Sham Fight — a scripted mock battle between two horsemen playing King William and King James, fought out on the lawn of Scarva demesne to a crowd that police have at times estimated at 80,000. It is a Loyalist day. It is also an extraordinarily strange and old custom — a piece of folk theatre staged in the same field, on the same date, for over two hundred years.

Come for the 13th if the politics don't trouble you and you want to see something you will not see anywhere else. Come for any other day if you want a flat canal-side walk, a chestnut tree with a story, and a quiet pint of tea looking at a stretch of water that was, once, the most modern thing in the British Isles. Both are worth a morning. Neither pretends to be more than what it is.

Population
~700
Walk score
One street, one canal, one demesne wall — done in fifteen minutes
Founded
Laid out by John Reilly of Scarvagh House, mid-18th century
Coords
54.2772° N, 6.4225° W
01 / 07

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 07

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Sinton's at the Bridge Restaurant & cafe €€ 2 Station Road, beside the bridge. Run by Graeme and Julianne Morton. Open Tuesday to Sunday, closed Mondays. The scones and the coffee are what most reviews come back to. The dinner menu is short and country, in the good sense.
Scarva Visitor Centre Tearooms Tearoom Inside the visitor centre on the dock. Open Easter to end of September, closed Mondays. Soup, sandwiches, a slice of something. Toilets and a bike-hire desk in the same building. The right lunch before pushing on along the towpath.
03 / 07

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

13th of July, every year

The Sham Fight

An Ordnance Survey memoir of 1838 already describes the custom as old. By 1836 over 5,000 people were taking part — not watching, taking part — and the mock battle was fought, then, across the top of the Newry Canal to stand in for the Boyne. The Royal Black Institution took it over and standardised it. Today two horsemen do the King William and King James roles, the fight runs to a script, William wins (he is contractually obliged to), and the crowd, which on a good year touches the tens of thousands, files back to the demesne for the speeches and the bands. It is the only Sham Fight of this kind left in Ireland. Bandon in west Cork used to have one. Half a dozen Ulster villages used to have one. Only Scarva kept it going.

A tree that did not grow up

King William's Chestnut

In June 1690 William of Orange's army camped between Loughbrickland and Scarva for the best part of a week, training before the march south to the Boyne. The story told in Scarva is that William rested beneath a Spanish chestnut on the lawn of what is now Scarva demesne — and that his horse trod on the young tree, so that instead of growing tall it spread sideways. The tree is still there. It is on the Northern Ireland Remarkable Trees register. The dating works: the tree is old enough. Whether the horse actually stood on it is a question for the kind of evening when nobody is in a hurry.

Newry Navigation, opened 1742

The first canal

The inland section of the Newry Canal was the first summit-level canal built in these islands — twenty years older than the Bridgewater in Manchester, the one the English textbooks usually start the story with. It was built to bring Tyrone coal down to the Irish Sea at Newry. It worked, after a fashion, for two centuries; the dock at Scarva unloaded coal for the linen mills of the Bann valley. The last commercial barge ran in the 1930s. The towpath is now a Sustrans cycle route. The water is full of swans and the occasional heron and not much else.

How a village gets built

The Reillys of Scarvagh House

Scarvagh House, the big Georgian three-sided pile behind the demesne wall, was built around 1717 by Myles Reilly. The Reilly family — Catholic gentry who somehow stayed Catholic gentry through the eighteenth century — laid out the village of Scarva in the decades that followed. The story locally is that an earlier John Reilly, in thanks for services to William's army in 1690, was given as much land as he could walk and plant with acorns in a day. He must have walked a long way. The family hosted the early Sham Fights on their own lawn. They still own the demesne.

04 / 07

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Newry Canal Way (Scarva section) The full towpath runs from Portadown to Newry along National Cycle Route 9. Scarva sits roughly halfway — 13 km from Portadown, 19 km from Newry. Flat as a snooker table. The Scarva Visitor Centre has a bike-hire desk and a tearoom. Out-and-back to the Acton Interpretive Centre (halfway to Poyntzpass) is the easy half-day.
32 km point-to-pointdistance
Day on a bike, two on foottime
Scarva to Poyntzpass and back Walk south along the towpath into County Armagh. The Acton lake and interpretive centre sit between the two villages — wildfowl, an old lock, a story-board or two. Poyntzpass itself has a pub at the end. Turn around and come back to Scarva for tea.
10 km returndistance
2 hours on foot, 45 min by biketime
Terryhoogan Aqueduct loop Head north along the canal towards Portadown. Terryhoogan has a beautiful old stone lock with part of the lock gates still in place, and an aqueduct that carried the Cusher River over the canal. The most photogenic stretch of the whole 32 km. Loop back the same way.
6 kmdistance
90 mintime
05 / 07

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

Towpath is at its best — hawthorn out in May, swans nesting, visitor centre tearoom open from Easter. Bring a bike.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

The 13th of July is the day. If you are not here for the Sham Fight, do not be in Scarva on the 13th — there is nowhere to park within five miles and the village is shut. The rest of July and August are quiet.

◐ Mind yourself
Autumn
Sep–Oct

Chestnuts dropping under the King William tree. Tearoom open until end of September, then it closes for the winter. The towpath in October light is something else.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

Visitor centre tearoom shut. Sinton's open. The village is at its most itself — quiet, off-season, the canal frozen at the edges. Bring layers.

◐ Mind yourself
06 / 07

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

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Trying to "do" Scarva on the 13th if you have not come for the Sham Fight

You will not get within a mile of the village. Roads close, fields become car parks, the towpath fills up. If the politics of an Orange Order day are not your weekend, pick literally any other date.

×
Driving the towpath looking for a car park at Acton

The towpath is a towpath. You walk it or cycle it. Park at Scarva Visitor Centre or at Poyntzpass and meet in the middle.

×
Expecting a pub crawl

There isn't one. Sinton's at the Bridge does the food and most of the daytime tea. For an evening pint you are looking at the pubs in Banbridge, Loughbrickland, or Poyntzpass over the line in Armagh.

×
Counting on the Sunday train

Scarva station has four trains a day Monday to Saturday and none on a Sunday. If you are going by rail, check the Translink timetable the night before.

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Getting there.

By car

Belfast to Scarva is about 50 minutes via the A1 to Banbridge, then five minutes west on the B10. From Newry, 20 minutes up the A27. From Portadown, 15 minutes south on the A50.

By bus

No direct bus service into the village. The Translink Goldline Belfast-Newry/Dublin coaches pass through Banbridge, 8 km east, where a local taxi or the B10 takes the slack.

By train

Scarva is on the Belfast Grand Central to Newry line. Four trains in each direction, Monday to Saturday only, no Sunday service. The station is unstaffed; buy your ticket from the conductor on board.

By air

Belfast International (BFS) is 1 hour by road. Belfast City (BHD) is 50 minutes. Dublin Airport is 1 hour 20.