Tens of thousands of people walk Howth’s cliffs every summer — but seeing them from the water is a different thing altogether. The cliff face looks completely different from sea level, and Dublin Bay opens up in a way that the walking path simply can’t offer.
You’ll be aboard the Puffin, Howth’s newest and fastest ferry, captained by Mark, whose family have been fishing and touring these waters for generations. He runs live commentary throughout on the birdlife, the rock formations and the sea mammals you pass along the way — puffins, guillemots and grey seals are all regulars here. The route takes you out past Howth Lighthouse and along the cliff face toward the Baily Lighthouse, then circles Ireland’s Eye: a nature reserve and part of the Dublin Bay Biosphere, with a Martello Tower, a seal colony and the story of the infamous Kirwan murder case woven into the commentary.
Getting to Howth is easy — it’s a straightforward DART or bus ride from the city centre.
Meeting point: Pontoon on the West Pier in Howth, opposite Aqua Restaurant.
The water perspective changes everything. Howth’s cliffs are dramatic from the walking path, but from sea level you can see the cave mouths, the nesting ledges and the sheer scale of the rock face in a way that’s genuinely surprising even if you’ve done the cliff walk before. The two experiences complement each other rather than compete.
Puffins are most visible in late spring and early summer. They nest in burrows and on ledges in the cliff face, and they’re much easier to spot from the boat than from the path above. If puffins are a priority, April through July is your window. The grey seals are there year-round.
Captain Mark’s family history with these waters is part of the commentary. This isn’t scripted tour-guide material — it’s someone who actually grew up here telling you what they know. The Kirwan murder story (an 1852 case that’s still talked about on the island) gets a good telling.
Ireland’s Eye is a proper nature reserve. It’s part of the Dublin Bay UNESCO Biosphere, and the seabird colonies on the island are dense enough that the sound carries across the water before you even see them. The Martello Tower adds a layer of history to what’s already a visually striking island.
Combine with the cliff walk for a full Howth day. The ferry covers the water side; the cliff walk covers the headland above. Both start and finish near the harbour, and there are several good seafood spots along the pier for lunch or dinner in between.