County Kildare Ireland · Co. Kildare · Kilmead Save · Share
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KILMEAD
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Kilmead
Cill Míde, Co. Kildare

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 07 / 07
Cill Míde · Co. Kildare

A south Kildare crossroads with a pre-Emancipation church and one of the darkest hills in Irish memory a few fields north.

Kilmead sits on the R418, seven kilometres northeast of Athy, at a crossroads where a church, a graveyard and a scatter of farms gather around the road south to Castledermot. The surrounding country is flat, quiet south Kildare - wide fields, hedgerows, the Greese River threading through the townlands nearby. This was Fitzgerald country for centuries. Kilkea Castle, the family's old seat, is a few kilometres down the same road.

The Irish name, Cill Míde, is usually read as middle church - not, as the similar-sounding Kilmeedy in Limerick, the church of Saint Ita. The dedication of the church here to Saint Ita is the later layer. The building itself, Saint Ita's, was raised around 1798, before Catholic Emancipation, which makes it an unusual survival: a substantial Catholic church put up in the open three decades before the law fully allowed it. T-shaped plan, lancet windows, stained glass, a cut-stone bellcote, a freestanding belfry added around 1870.

The bigger history is a few fields away. Mullaghmast, to the north near Ballitore, is where in the winter of 1577 to 1578 Crown forces under Sir Francis Cosby summoned the Gaelic gentry of Laois - the O'Moores, O'Lalors and the rest - to a meeting under safe conduct, and killed most of them. The hill has been a watchword in Irish memory ever since. Daniel O'Connell held one of his great Repeal meetings there in 1843, the last but one before he called off Clontarf. Kilmead wears none of this on its sleeve. It is a working crossroads. The weight is underfoot.

Population
372 (2022)
Walk score
Village in five minutes, crossroads in two
Coords
53°02′03″N, 6°53′52″W
01 / 07

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 07

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

No pub in the village

Crossroads, not a main street
Honest note

Kilmead is a church-and-crossroads village of under four hundred people, and there is no pub or shop to send you to here. For a pint, food or a bed, Athy is ten minutes north and Castledermot fifteen minutes south, both on the R418. Plan to drink and eat in one of the towns, not the village.

03 / 07

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Earls, rebellion, and a long retreat

The Fitzgeralds of Kilmead

The Fitzgeralds, Earls of Kildare, held land across this corner of the county for centuries, with their seat down the road at Kilkea Castle. The family's grip on the wider region was broken by the rebellion of Silken Thomas in 1534 and his execution at Tyburn with five of his uncles. What remains locally is the church and the ground: Kilmead sits inside what was Fitzgerald country, and Kilkea Castle, much rebuilt, still stands a short drive south.

"Remember Mullaghmast"

Mullaghmast

The rath of Mullaghmast, a few kilometres north of Kilmead near Ballitore, was the site of one of the most notorious killings of the Elizabethan conquest. In the winter of 1577 to 1578, Crown forces under Sir Francis Cosby invited the Gaelic gentry of Laois - the Seven Septs, the O'Moores, O'Lalors, McEvoys and others - to a meeting under safe conduct, then murdered them. The phrase Remember Mullaghmast became a watchword in later Irish resistance. Daniel O'Connell chose the hill for a Repeal monster meeting on the first of October 1843, drawing an enormous crowd, with the formal dinner served in a pavilion built on the site. It was among the last of his monster meetings before the banned gathering at Clontarf.

A pre-Emancipation church, still in use

Saint Ita's

Built around 1798, Saint Ita's predates Catholic Emancipation by three decades. The church is T-shaped in plan - a double-height nave with two transepts - with lancet-arch windows, a slate roof behind a parapet, and a cut-stone bellcote on the entrance gable. A separate freestanding belfry was added to the north around 1870. Inside are timber galleries, inscribed cut-stone wall monuments and Gothic-style marble altar furniture. It serves as a chapel of ease in the parish of Narraghmore and Moone, and is still in use. The graveyard around it was opened as the village cemetery only in the 1970s; before that, burials went to the older parish ground at Fontstown.

04 / 07

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Saint Ita's church and graveyard The one fixed thing to look at in the village itself. Walk the exterior for the bellcote and the separate 1870s belfry, then the graveyard, opened in the 1970s. If the church is open, the timber galleries and cut-stone monuments inside are worth the few minutes.
Short strolldistance
20 minutestime
Out to Mullaghmast There is no marked trail from Kilmead. The rath sits on farmland north toward Ballitore and is reached by road and a field approach; treat it as a drive-and-stand rather than a hike. Pair it with the Quaker village of Ballitore, which has the interpretive material and the parking the hill does not.
A few km north by roaddistance
Half a day with the detourtime
05 / 07

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

South Kildare farmland greening up, long light, dry-enough ground for the field approach to Mullaghmast. Quietest and best for the church and the hill.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Longest days for pairing Kilmead with Ballitore, Moone and Castledermot in one loop. Nothing in the village itself draws a crowd, so you will have it to yourself.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

The Mullaghmast meeting was the first of October; autumn is the fitting time to stand on the hill. Harvest colour across the flat land. Bring boots.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Short days and heavy ground. The field approach to Mullaghmast gets boggy, and there is no pub in the village to wait out the rain. Do this one when the days are longer.

◐ Mind yourself
06 / 07

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
A village to wander

Kilmead is a crossroads with a church, not a street of shops and pubs. Come for Saint Ita's and the run of history toward Mullaghmast, not for an afternoon of pottering. Base yourself in Athy or Ballitore and treat Kilmead as a stop.

×
Expecting Mullaghmast to be a visitor site

The rath is on farmland with no formal trail, signage or car park at the hill itself. It is a place to read about, then go and stand on. The interpretation and parking are over at Ballitore, not at Kilmead or the hill.

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Getting there.

By car

Athy to Kilmead is about ten minutes north on the R418. Castledermot is fifteen minutes south on the same road. From Dublin, allow roughly 1h 15m via the M9 to Athy, then the R418.

By bus

Bus Éireann route 817 serves Kilmead on the Athy to Dublin run. Route 130 runs once on weekdays to Kilcullen, Naas and Dublin. South Kildare Community Transport serves Athy twice daily on weekdays.

By train

Nearest station is Athy, about ten minutes by car, on the line to Dublin Heuston via Kildare.