County Louth Ireland · Co. Louth · Clogherhead Save · Share
POSTED FROM
CLOGHERHEAD
CO. LOUTH · IE

Clogherhead
Ceann Chlochair

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 02 / 05
Ceann Chlochair · Co. Louth

A working fishing port on a headland that climbs out of the sea.

Clogherhead is a fishing village on a headland twelve kilometres north-east of Drogheda. Two thousand people, three pubs, a Blue Flag beach at the bottom of the hill and a working harbour at the top. The village climbs the slope between them. From the top of the head you can see the Cooley Mountains, the Mournes, and on a good day the Isle of Man. The view is the half of it. The fish coming off the boats is the other.

The harbour was built in 1885 and is still the largest commercial fishing port on Ireland's north-east coast. Prawns, crab, whitefish — most of what gets landed here is on a truck to Dublin or Howth before lunch. The RNLI station up the slip has been running since 1899. The seal colony at the foot of the cliffs is unbothered by any of it.

Don't come for nightlife. Come for a morning on the headland walk with the seals barking below, a plate at Fisherman's Catch when the boats are in, a pint in Sharkey's afterwards, and an hour at the harbour wall watching the boats unload. The geology underfoot is the actual collision zone where two continents joined; the folding in the rock is plain to see if you know what you are looking at. Stay one night. Two if the weather holds.

Population
~2,145
Pubs
4and counting
Walk score
Village to harbour to headland in forty minutes
Founded
Fishing settlement on the headland; Port Oriel pier built 1885
Coords
53.7956° N, 6.2333° W
01 / 09

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 09

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Sharkey's Bar & Lounge

Sports bar, sociable
Pub on Main Street, family-run since 1955

On Main Street in the village. The Sharkey family have been pouring here for seventy years. Big screens for the GAA and the soccer, music at the weekends, a long bar that fills up Saturday night. The default Clogherhead pub when you ask anyone where to go.

Declan Levins's Bar

Local, the regulars' room
Village pub

The other end of the bar trade — locals' pub, no fuss, the kind of place where the same five stools have the same five names on them. Top-rated on the review sites for what that's worth, which the regulars don't read anyway.

The Smuggler's Rest

Themed, harbour-side
Bar & restaurant on Harbour Road

Down on the harbour at Port Oriel. Run by the people behind the Sea Food Rocks festival; the upstairs Top Deck Room is fitted out like the hull of an 18th-century merchant ship, which sounds awful and isn't. Local beer, seafood off the boats, and a deck for an evening pint with the trawlers in front of you.

A note on the count

Clogherhead is a three-pub village. The harbour has Fisherman's Catch and other food traders, but the proper bar trade is Sharkey's, Declan's, and the Smuggler's. If you want a fourth, drive ten minutes to Termonfeckin or fifteen to Drogheda.

03 / 09

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Fisherman's Catch Fish shop & chowder counter, Port Oriel Opened by John and Michelle Kirwan in 2009 right on the harbour. The fish came off the boat that morning — chowder, fresh-shucked oysters, prawns and crab in season. Counter service, picnic tables outside, the fishing fleet thirty feet away. The seaside chipper that locals actually queue at.
The Smuggler's Rest Restaurant on Harbour Road €€ A proper sit-down dinner at the harbour. Local seafood, steaks, the kind of menu that doesn't pretend to be more than it is. Outdoor seating in summer is the version to book.
Sharkey's lounge Pub food The pub kitchen on Main Street — soup-and-sandwich at lunchtime, a few hot plates at the weekend. Useful if the weather has driven everyone off the harbour.
A note on dinner Out of village For a serious night out, the locals drive twenty minutes to Drogheda for Eastern Seaboard or down to Termonfeckin for the Triple House. Clogherhead is a chowder-and-pint town. Plan that into the trip rather than against it.
04 / 09

Where to sleep.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Self-catering on the headland Cottages and houses The bulk of stays in Clogherhead are short-term lets — cottages above the harbour, houses on the road up to the head. Search by Clogherhead and Port Beach. Quiet at night, two minutes to a pint, five minutes to a swim.
B&Bs in the village Family-run A handful of small B&Bs around the village core. None famous, all functional, breakfasts the kind that make a long headland walk possible. Book direct rather than through the big sites — it's cheaper and the owner picks up the phone.
Bellingham Castle area Hotels fifteen minutes north If you want a hotel rather than a let, drive fifteen minutes north to Bellingham Castle in Castlebellingham — proper four-star in a 17th-century house. Or the same distance south to Drogheda for the chain hotels. There is no hotel in Clogherhead itself.
05 / 09

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

RNLI Clogherhead since 1899

The lifeboat at the slip

Two lifeboats covered the Boyne estuary from Drogheda from the 1860s. By 1899 the volume of work had thinned and one of the stations was closed; the operation moved up the coast to Clogherhead and the first lifeboat — the Charles Whitton, cost £582 — was placed on the slip at Port Oriel. The shed has been rebuilt twice since. The current boat, the Shannon-class Michael O'Brien, arrived in 2019. The station marked its 125th anniversary in May 2024 with a reception that the entire village turned out for. It is one of the longest-continuously-running lifeboat stations on the Irish coast.

A continental collision, visible

The Iapetus Suture

Around 420 million years ago two ancient continents collided and the join is here. The Iapetus Suture runs from Clogherhead across Ireland to the Shannon Estuary, then over to the Solway Firth and the Cheviot Hills in England. At Clogher Head the line is visible to the naked eye — the rocks fold sharply where the two land masses jammed against each other. The Geological Society lists it as one of the best places in either island to see plate tectonics in section. It is also a Special Area of Conservation, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and a working trawler harbour. All on the same headland.

Year-round colony

The seals at the foot of the cliff

A colony of grey and harbour seals lives on the rocks at the foot of Clogher Head. They haul out at low tide, sing on the wind, and are entirely indifferent to the people walking the cliff path above them. The headland trail gives you a view down onto them on most circuits — bring binoculars, keep above the cliff, keep the dog on a lead. They calve in autumn.

A Victorian working pier

Port Oriel, 1885

Before 1885 the boats at Clogherhead were beached on the strand. The Victorian Board of Works built the present harbour wall in granite and the pier has been the working harbour ever since. It is now the largest commercial fishing port on the north-east coast — prawns, crab, whitefish, with a substantial pelagic and shellfish fleet. The auction house on the pier still calls fish most mornings. The harbour is also the launch site for sea angling, dive boats, and the lifeboat. It is a working pier first; the visitors are welcome but second.

06 / 09

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Clogherhead Headland Loop The walk that justifies the trip. From the village car park onto the cliff path, around the head past the lookout point, down to Port Oriel and back along the lane. Gentle climb, sea on three sides, the seal colony usually visible at low tide on the south side. AllTrails calls it easy. In a southerly gale it is anything but.
4.4 km loopdistance
1–1.5 hourstime
Port Beach to the Boyne South from the village along the strand at low tide all the way to the Boyne estuary if the tide is generous. Flat, easy, dog-walkers and waders. Check the tide chart — at high water the route is gone.
6 km returndistance
2 hourstime
Headland to harbour The short version. From the headland car park down through the cliff path to Port Oriel, a stop at Fisherman's Catch, back up the lane. The pre-breakfast walk that explains why the locals are content here.
2 kmdistance
40 mintime
07 / 09

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

The cliff path is empty, the boats are out, and the seals are at their busiest. Restaurants open as usual. The headland is at its best in late April.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

Long evenings on Port Beach, the Sea Food Rocks festival on the harbour, lifeguards on the strand. The car park fills on a hot Saturday — get there early.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep–Oct

The locals' season. The trawlers are at their busiest with prawns and the pubs go back to themselves. Light on the cliffs is gold.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

Storms come straight in off the Irish Sea. Half the harbour traders shut. Sharkey's stays open, the lifeboat goes out anyway. If you want the headland to yourself, this is the season.

◐ Mind yourself
08 / 09

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Driving onto the working pier

Port Oriel is a working harbour. Trawlers, fork lifts, ice trucks. Park at the top of the slip and walk the last hundred metres. The crews do not need a tourist car blocking the unloading bay.

×
Looking for nightlife after eleven

Clogherhead is a fishing village. The pubs do their proper trade until ten or eleven and then the boats need their crews up at four. If you want a club, go to Drogheda.

×
Climbing down to the seal colony

The cliffs are unstable in places and the seals are protected. Stay on the path. Bring binoculars. The view from above is the view.

+

Getting there.

By car

Drogheda to Clogherhead is 15 minutes via the R166. From Dublin, M1 to junction 11 (Drogheda North), then R166. About 50 minutes from the city. From Dundalk, 30 minutes south on the R132 and R166.

By bus

Bus Éireann route 168 connects Clogherhead to Drogheda, Dundalk, and the villages along the coast. Several services daily on weekdays, fewer at weekends. About 25 minutes from Drogheda.

By train

No train. Nearest station is Drogheda on the Belfast–Dublin Enterprise line, fifteen minutes by car or bus.

By air

Dublin Airport (DUB) is 50 minutes by car straight down the M1. Belfast International (BFS) is 1h 20m. Most visitors come via Dublin.