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PARTRY
CO. MAYO · IE

Partry
Partraí, Co. Mayo

The Joyce Country & Western Lakes Geopark
STOP 08 / 08
Partraí · Co. Mayo

A small lakeland parish on the N84 with one very dark chapter and two good pubs.

Partry is a small rural parish in south-west Mayo, strung along the N84 between Ballinrobe and Castlebar on the narrow strip of land that separates Lough Mask from Lough Carra. The Irish name is Partraí, after the Partraige, the ancient tribe whose name the place has carried since long before any of the present buildings stood. The civil parish was formerly called Ballyovey. Around 560 people live across the wider district; the village itself is a junction, a church, a couple of pubs, and the lakes on either side.

It is a fishing place first. Mask, to the west, is brown-trout water of the better sort and one of the limestone lakes anglers plan a year around; Carra, shallower and lime-rich to the east, is its quieter neighbour. Boats go out, B&Bs and self-catering houses take the season's anglers, and the rest of the year the lakes belong to the light. There is no shop street to speak of. Come for the water and the quiet, not for a town.

But Partry carries two heavy stories for a place its size. In the woods near here the priest-hunter Seán na Sagart met his end in 1726. And in 1860 the parish became the centre of the Partry controversy, when evangelical evictions tipped over into a national scandal. Neither is folklore dressed up for visitors. Both happened, and both still get talked about.

Population
563 (2011)
Pubs
2and counting
Founded
Civil parish (formerly Ballyovey); Partry House built 1667
Coords
53.7000° N, 9.2833° W
01 / 08

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 08

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

The Village Inn

Family-run, fire-lit, all-day
Thatched pub & restaurant, in the village

Established in 1958 as a small pub with a grocer next door and grown a good deal since. Traditional bar with an open log fire, a 60-seat restaurant, a sports bar and function space, and food served daily from local suppliers. The bar runs from mid-afternoon early in the week and from lunchtime Thursday to Sunday. The obvious centre of gravity in the village.

Harringtons (The Lough Inn)

Local, trad sessions
Country pub

The other pub, known for its traditional Irish music sessions. A small rural bar of the kind that does its best work on a session night with the regulars in.

03 / 08

Where to sleep.

PlaceTypeLocal note
The Village Inn Glamping & rooms at the pub The village pub also offers glamping accommodation on site, which keeps you within walking distance of the only kitchen and bar in the place. Convenient rather than scenic, but it puts you exactly where the evening is.
Lakeside B&Bs and self-catering Guesthouses & rentals Partry is first and foremost a fishing base, so the local beds are angler-oriented: a scatter of B&Bs, self-catering houses and holiday caravans, several with boatmen and boats for hire on Mask. Book through the fishing rather than the brochures.
04 / 08

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Evict, convert, and the press fights back

The Partry controversy

Through the 1850s the Church of Ireland archbishop of Tuam, Thomas Plunket, and his sister Catherine ran a campaign of conversion across Partry and neighbouring Tourmakeady. They built schools and pressed tenants to send their children to them, with the threat of eviction for refusing and land and work offered to those who complied. Catherine Plunket was, in the language of the time, a souper. By the time Fr Patrick Lavelle was appointed parish priest of Ballyovey in 1860 something like a hundred tenants had already been put out. The breaking point came that year when the Plunkets evicted 17 families, around 68 people, and levelled their houses. Lavelle took the story to newspapers at home and abroad; the scandal that followed broke the campaign, and the Plunkets withdrew to Tuam. It is one of the clearest cases in Irish history of proselytism, eviction and the printed word colliding in a single small parish.

The priest-hunter who died in the wood

Seán na Sagart

Seán na Sagart, 'John of the priests', was the byname of John Mullowney, the most notorious priest-hunter of the Penal era in Mayo. The story goes that he was caught stealing a horse, faced the rope, and bought his freedom by agreeing to hunt down priests for the authorities for pay. He met his end in 1726 in a wood near Partry, killed by Friar David Bourke, one of the men he was pursuing. He was buried at Ballintubber, a few miles north, where so loathed was his memory that the body was dug up and thrown into Lough Carra before being reinterred in unconsecrated ground facing north, away from the rising sun. An ash tree, said never to have borne fruit, grew over the grave.

The Lynch seat on Lough Carra

Partry House

Partry House was built in 1667 by the Lynch family on the remains of an earlier castle, on a 250-acre estate of farmland, bog and woodland looking out over Lough Carra. It stayed in Lynch hands, the line later styled Lynch-Blosse, until 1991. Two of the sons raised here made names abroad in the 19th century: Henry Blosse Lynch, who as an Indian Navy officer led survey expeditions on the Tigris and Euphrates, and his brother Thomas Kerr Lynch, who ran a steamer service on the Tigris and served as consul-general for Persia in London. The house survives and opens to visitors in the summer months.

05 / 08

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Lough Mask western shore The reason most people come. The shore is for getting onto the lake more than walking along it; if a boatman has a spare seat, ask. The mayfly fortnight in the second half of May is when Mask earns its reputation. Without a boat and someone who knows the water, the bank options are thin.
Short shore accessdistance
1 hour or a day on the watertime
Lough Carra and Partry House The quieter, shallower lake on the east side. Partry House and its 250 acres front the shore, open in summer; Carra itself is a marl lake with an unusual pale-blue cast in the right light. Less fished and less visited than Mask, which is rather the point.
Estate groundsdistance
1-2 hourstime
06 / 08

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

The angling season builds and the mayfly hatch on Lough Mask comes off in the second half of May, the fortnight that fills the local beds. The lakes are full and the light is long.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Partry House opens to visitors, the fishing is in full swing, and the Village Inn does its busiest trade. The warmest, easiest time to be on the water.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

The anglers thin out and the parish gets back to itself. October light on the two lakes is the quiet reward, and the pubs keep going.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Short days, cold lakes, Partry House shut and the fishing largely on hold. The pubs are still pubs. Bring layers and low expectations.

◐ Mind yourself
07 / 08

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Expecting a village to wander

Partry is a junction and a parish, not a streetscape. There is no row of shops to stroll and no town centre to photograph. The lakes and the stories are the visit; if you want a main street, Ballinrobe is fifteen minutes south.

×
Fishing Lough Mask without a boat or a guide

Mask is a big, windy limestone lake and the bank fishing is limited. Hire a boatman who knows the water. It is the difference between a day's fishing and a day standing in a field.

×
Turning up at Partry House out of season

The house opens to visitors in the summer months only and is a private family place the rest of the year. Check before you drive in; do not assume the gate.

+

Getting there.

By car

Partry is on the N84 at the junction with the R330, midway between Ballinrobe (about 12 km south) and Castlebar (about 14 km north). Galway is roughly an hour south on the N84; Westport is about 30 minutes north-west. The roads are good by rural standards.

By bus

Bus Éireann route 419 (Galway to Ballina via Ballinrobe and Castlebar) runs along the N84 and serves the area; check current timings as rural stops vary. Most visitors drive.

By train

No station. The nearest is Castlebar, about 15 minutes north by road, on the Dublin to Westport line.

By air

Ireland West Airport (NOC) at Knock is about 45 minutes by car. Fittingly, the campaign that built that airport was led by Mgr James Horan, a Knock parish priest born in Partry.