Steach Maoilín · Co. Meath
An M1 commuter village that doubled and doubled again - with a medieval churchyard hiding one of the oldest cadaver tombs in Ireland.
Stamullen is what happens when Dublin runs out of room northward. It sits just off the M1 at Junction 7, 32 km north of the city, on the Meath side of the Dublin border and beside the small Delvin River. In 1996 it had 427 people. By 2022 it had 3,720. That is the whole story of the place in two numbers - a quiet medieval parish that became a commuter village inside a single generation.
But the older Stamullen is still here if you walk to the churchyard. The Prestons, Viscounts Gormanston, held land all around here for centuries, and they left their dead in the ruined parish church on the edge of the village. Inside the attached St Christopher's chapel - built around the middle of the 15th century - is the tomb of William Preston, the 2nd Viscount, in one of the few suits of plate armour carved in Irish stone, beside his wife Eleanor Dowdall in her jewelled cap. A few feet away lies the strangest thing in the village: a shrouded skeleton carved around 1450, a young woman's body shown decomposing, one of only eleven cadaver tombs that survive in Ireland and perhaps the oldest of them.
Above ground the village is plainer. A supermarket, a butcher, a barbers, a vet, a coffee shop and one proper pub. The GAA and soccer clubs share the community centre. Whyte's does the eating and drinking. It is honest about what it is: a place people sleep and raise children, twenty-five minutes from Dublin on a good run, with a churchyard most of its own residents have never properly looked at.
Come for the churchyard. Stay for a lunch at Whyte's. Then drive the five minutes east to Gormanston for the beach, or south to Drogheda for an actual town. Stamullen is a short stop, but the stop is worth making.