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BALLYCUMBER
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Ballycumber
Beal Atha Chomair, Co. Offaly

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 07 / 07
Beal Atha Chomair · Co. Offaly

A handful of houses where the R436 crosses the Brosna - but the next bog over holds one of the finest medieval shrines in Ireland.

Ballycumber is small. Two hundred and eight people at the last count that named it, a stone bridge, a shop with the post office, a bar, a church and a scatter of houses where the R436 crosses the River Brosna between Clara and Ferbane. The 1837 topographical dictionary counted thirteen houses. It has grown since, but not by much, and the honest description has not changed: this is a river crossing with a name, not a destination in itself.

The name says as much. Beal Atha Chomair - the ford-mouth of the confluence - records the spot where you got across the water, back when the Brosna was a working thoroughfare through the bogs of the midlands. The river still runs under the bridge, patient and brown, on its long way from Lough Owel down to the Shannon at Shannon Harbour. There was a railway once too: Ballycumber station opened in 1862 and closed in 1963, and the line is long gone.

What makes the place worth a detour is not in the village at all - it is in the parish around it. Three kilometres off at Boher, the parish church holds St Manchan's Shrine, a 12th-century reliquary that is one of the finest survivals of medieval Irish art. A few minutes further west, the monastery St Manchan founded on a dry island in the bog at Lemanaghan still stands in ruin, reached by the same boglands the medieval pilgrims crossed on timber roads. And on the high ground above the river, hidden in the old Ballycumber House demesne, sits a strange buttressed garden folly that the Irish Georgian Society has been quietly patching up.

Come for those. The village itself is a pint and a fill of the tank on the way through. The heritage of the parish is the reason to stop.

Population
208 (2016 census)
Pubs
1and counting
Founded
River crossing settlement; Ballycumber House built as a castle 1627
Coords
53.3072° N, 7.7142° W
01 / 07

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 07

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Gussie's Bar & Lounge

Local, plain and useful
Village bar and shop

The village bar, doubling as a shop - the kind of combined bar-and-supermarket that keeps a small place like this ticking over. It is the local, not a destination, and it serves the parish first. A pint and a packet of crisps and the day's news. There were other pubs once - Healy's, an old thatch turned modern bar, has closed - so this is essentially the one.

03 / 07

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

A 12th-century reliquary, still venerated

St Manchan's Shrine

In the Catholic church at Boher, a few kilometres from Ballycumber, sits one of the great treasures of medieval Ireland: St Manchan's Shrine. It is a large house-shaped reliquary, about sixty centimetres wide, built around a yew core, raised on four cast-bronze feet and clad in silver plates with gilt and copper-alloy figures and big ornamental bosses. It was made in the 12th century to hold the relics of Manchan of Lemanaghan, who died in the yellow plague of 664. Remarkably it is not in a museum - it is kept in the parish church and is still venerated there, his feast day falling on 24 January. If you only do one thing in this parish, this is it.

St Manchan's island monastery in the bog

Lemanaghan

Manchan was a scholar who left Clonmacnoise in the 7th century and founded a monastery at Tuaim nEirc - an island of dry ground in the surrounding bog, now called Lemanaghan, a short drive west of Ballycumber. The ruins are real: a main church linked by an old roadway to a smaller one, a holy well, bullaun stones and a scatter of early grave slabs. Peat-cutting in the bogs around it has uncovered toghers, the timber trackways that pilgrims and travellers laid down to cross the wet ground to reach the place. It is quiet, half-forgotten and properly old.

A buttressed garden tower above the Brosna

The Ballycumber Folly

On rising ground in the old Ballycumber House demesne, overlooking the river, stands an odd circular folly of rubble sandstone - six flying buttresses, four tall arched windows, a fireplace inside. It is reckoned to be a relatively early example of an ornamental garden building in Ireland, dated loosely to around 1830 and possibly remodelled from something a century older. The Irish Georgian Society put money toward its repair in 2019. Ballycumber House itself was built as a castle in 1627 and turned into a dwelling in 1748. The folly stands on private demesne land, so admire it from a respectful distance rather than expecting a turnstile.

Ireland's first airman had a foot here

Crosbie of Ballycumber

Richard Crosbie (1755-1824) was the first Irishman to make a manned flight - up in a hydrogen balloon over Dublin in January 1785, just over a year after the Montgolfiers got off the ground in France. His Dublin ascent is well commemorated, but the Ballycumber thread is real too: his wife's family, the Armstrongs, held Twickenham House just northwest of the village, and by 1788 a deed describes him plainly as "Richard Crosbie formerly of the City of Dublin, now of Ballycumber in the Kings County, Esquire." The flight was Dublin's; the man, for a while, was the parish's.

04 / 07

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

The bridge and the Brosna There is no waymarked trail in the village, but the stone bridge over the Brosna and the riverbank around it make a pleasant short wander. The river is the reason the place exists; walk down to the water and you have seen the heart of Ballycumber.
Short village strolldistance
20-30 minutestime
Lemanaghan monastic site Drive west toward Ferbane and turn for Lemanaghan. The ruined churches, holy well, bullaun stones and grave slabs are spread over a small site in open bogland. Wear boots - it is wet underfoot - and give it time, because the quiet is the point. This is the landscape St Manchan chose.
On-site walkdistance
45 minutestime
Clara Bog (near Clara) Five kilometres east at Clara, Clara Bog is one of the largest intact raised bogs in the country, with a boardwalk and a visitor centre. Not in Ballycumber, but the same bogland the village sits on the western edge of, and the easiest way to actually walk out onto a midland bog.
Boardwalk loopdistance
1 hourtime
05 / 07

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

The bog and the riverbank green up and the light over the flat midland country is good. A fine time for Lemanaghan and the shrine before the summer.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Long evenings make the drive out to Boher and Lemanaghan easy. Check church opening times for the shrine before you go - it is a working parish church, not a museum.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

Quiet, mild and good for walking the monastic site while the bog colours turn. Few visitors.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Short days and wet bogland underfoot. The shrine's feast day falls on 24 January if you want to see it venerated, but the walking is for boots and patience only.

◐ Mind yourself
06 / 07

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Expecting a town

Ballycumber is a river-crossing village of a couple of hundred people. There is a bar, a shop, a bridge and a church. If you arrive expecting cafes, attractions and a heritage centre, you have misread the scale. The reward here is the parish heritage, not the streetscape.

×
Turning up at Boher church unannounced

St Manchan's Shrine is kept in a working parish church, not on permanent museum display. Check locally or with the parish for access and opening times rather than assuming the door is open whenever you arrive.

×
Treating the Folly as a visitor site

The Ballycumber Folly stands on the private Ballycumber House demesne. It is a real and worthwhile piece of Georgian whimsy, but it is not a public monument with a car park. Look, do not trespass.

+

Getting there.

By car

Ballycumber is on the R436 where it crosses the Brosna, 5 km west of Clara and a short hop south of Ferbane. From Tullamore it is about 20 minutes northwest via Clara. The M6 Dublin-Galway motorway is roughly a ten-minute drive away. A car is by far the practical way in.

By bus

No bus stops in the village itself. The nearest regular services run through Clara and Tullamore (Bus Eireann routes toward Galway, Dublin and beyond). You would need a lift or a car to cover the last few kilometres.

By train

No station in the village - Ballycumber's own station closed in 1963. The nearest working railway is at Clara, 5 km east, on the Dublin-Galway line, with trains roughly every couple of hours.

By air

Dublin Airport is about 1 hour 30 minutes by car via the M6 and M4. Shannon is a similar distance to the southwest.