County Offaly Ireland · Co. Offaly · Pollagh Save · Share
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POLLAGH
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Pollagh
An Pollach, Co. Offaly

The Ireland's Hidden Heartlands
STOP 07 / 07
An Pollach · Co. Offaly

A Grand Canal brick village on the edge of the bog, with a small church that holds two Harry Clarke windows and a bog-yew altar older than the pyramids.

Pollagh is a canal village, and that is the whole key to it. The Grand Canal reached this stretch in 1804 on its way from Dublin to the Shannon, and because Pollagh sits on the longest run of water between locks on the entire line, the boats slowed down and the trade settled here. First brick, then turf. The village that grew up along the towpath is small - 227 people at the last proper count - strung out between Ferbane and Tullamore on the flat bog of west Offaly.

The thing nobody expects is the church. St Mary's, built in 1907 of the local yellow brick, is laid out on a converging-transept plan so peculiar it is worth the detour on its own - the men sat down one aisle, the women down the other, neither able to see the other, both able to see the altar. Inside are two windows from the Harry Clarke studio, installed in 1936, and an altar, tabernacle and chair carved from bog yew pulled out of the surrounding bogs by Michael Casey and the Celtic Roots Studio. The wood has been carbon-dated to around 4,800 years. You do not come to a village this size expecting a Harry Clarke or an altar older than Newgrange. Pollagh has both.

The rest is bog and water. The brickyards are long gone, the Bord na Mona peat works have wound down, and the cutaway bog to the south is rewilding into the lakes and birch of Lough Boora and the Turraun wetland. There is one pub, the Pull Inn, and the canal towpath, now part of the Grand Canal Greenway, runs flat and quiet in both directions. Come if you are walking or cycling the Greenway, or if you want to stand in a small brick church in the middle of the bog and look at glass that has no business being this good.

Population
227 (2016)
Founded
Canal village from 1804; brick trade from the 1830s
Coords
53.2767° N, 7.7081° W
01 / 07

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 07

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

The Pull Inn

Canal-side local, live music
Village pub, on the Grand Canal

Pollagh's one pub, and a good one. Opened by Joe Gallagher on 3 July 1971 and run by the Gallagher family ever since. It sits right by the canal, which makes it the natural rest stop for anyone walking or cycling the Greenway - roughly the halfway mark between Tullamore and Shannon Harbour. Known locally for its trad and folk sessions. If you want a pint in Pollagh, this is the pint in Pollagh.

03 / 07

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Harry Clarke in a bog church, 1907

St Mary's and the converging aisles

St Mary's was finished in 1907 in local yellow brick, with a central tower under a pyramidal roof. The plan is the oddity: a V-shape of converging transepts, built so that men seated in one aisle could not see the women in the other, while both kept a clear line to the altar. The converging aisles were partly filled in around 1950. The two stained-glass windows flanking the chancel came from the Harry Clarke studio in 1936 and show the Virgin Mary and the Sacred Heart - the kind of jewelled, deep-colour glass the studio was famous for, set down in a village church on the edge of the bog. Buildings of Ireland rates it of regional significance for its architecture, art and social history. It is free to enter and usually open.

Wood that is 4,800 years old

The bog-yew altar

The altar, tabernacle, ambo and chair inside St Mary's were carved from bog yew - timber that grew, fell and was preserved in the surrounding bogs for thousands of years before being dug out and worked. The pieces were made by sculptor Michael Casey and the students of the Celtic Roots Studio at nearby Lemanaghan. Carbon dating put the age of the wood at roughly 4,800 years, meaning the tree was alive before the Egyptian pyramids were built. It is one of the more quietly extraordinary things in any church in the Irish midlands.

Fourteen brickyards on the canal bank

The brick village

Pollagh sits on clay, and once the canal arrived the clay became money. Brickyards opened along both banks from the 1830s; by the end of the nineteenth century fourteen of them were recorded around Pullough, firing brick that the canal boats carried to Dublin. The trade was good enough that the village bucked the national trend - while post-Famine Ireland emptied out, Pollagh's population rose from 267 in 1841 to 301 by 1881. The yards are gone, but the yellow Pollagh brick is still standing in the walls and the church.

Bord na Mona and Lough Boora

From peat to wetland

After brick came turf. Industrial peat extraction worked the bogs south of the village through the twentieth century, with the canal and later the Bord na Mona railway carrying it out. That has mostly stopped now. The cutaway bog at Turraun, once a Bord na Mona works, was among the first to be rehabilitated into a wetland and lake, and it now joins onto Lough Boora Discovery Park - thousands of hectares of reclaimed bog with walking and cycling trails and an outdoor sculpture park. The Turraun route runs right through into Pollagh village.

04 / 07

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Grand Canal Greenway towpath The old canal towpath runs flat and dead straight through the village in both directions, now surfaced as part of the Offaly Grand Canal Greenway. East takes you toward Rahan and on to Tullamore; west toward Shannon Harbour. Plunkett Bridge (1809) is the crossing point. Good for walking or cycling, exposed to the weather, with the bog opening out on both sides. The Pull Inn is the obvious turnaround.
As far as you likedistance
Flat, open-endedtime
Turraun and Lough Boora trails South of the village, the rehabilitated Turraun wetland and the wider Lough Boora Discovery Park lay out kilometres of walking and cycling trails across reclaimed cutaway bog, with lakes, birdlife, a Mesolithic site and a 2.8 km outdoor sculpture park. The marked Turraun route links the Boora road through to Pollagh, so you can ride out from the village. Bring water and a map - it is open bog, not a tidy park.
Turraun route ~16 kmdistance
Half a day cyclingtime
05 / 07

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

The bog dries enough for the Greenway and Boora trails, the birdlife on the Turraun lakes is busy, and the canal is at its best on a still bright morning.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Long flat evenings on the towpath and the best chance of catching a session in the Pull Inn. The prime window for cycling the Greenway and Lough Boora.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

Low light across the bog and quiet trails. The church glass is worth catching on a bright afternoon when the colour really lifts.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Short days and open, exposed bog with little shelter. The canal and the church keep going, but the Greenway can be cold and wind-blown. Check the church is open before you make the trip for it.

◐ Mind yourself
06 / 07

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Expecting a town

Pollagh is a village of a couple of hundred people with one pub. There is no cluster of shops, cafes or hotels. Stock up in Tullamore or Ferbane before you come, and treat Pollagh as a stop on the canal rather than a base.

×
Turning up at the church on spec for the windows

The Harry Clarke windows and the bog-yew altar are the real reason to detour here, but St Mary's is a working rural church, not a staffed attraction. It is usually open, but if you have come a distance specifically for the glass, it is worth checking locally that it is unlocked before you arrive.

+

Getting there.

By car

Pollagh is about 15 km west of Tullamore and a few minutes east of Ferbane, on the flat between the N52 and the bog. From Tullamore head west on the local roads toward Rahan and Pollagh; from the N52 at Ferbane or the R357 Boora road, follow signs in. From Dublin it is roughly 1 hour 30 minutes via the M6 and Tullamore.

By bus

No regular town-bus service through the village. Local Link Laois Offaly runs rural routes in the area; check current timetables. The nearest full bus services are at Tullamore.

By train

No station. The nearest is Tullamore on the Dublin Heuston to Galway line, about 15 km east, then road for the last leg.

By air

Dublin Airport is the practical arrival point, roughly 1 hour 45 minutes by road. Shannon is a similar distance to the west.