Open since 1912
Kilcullen's bath house
The Kilcullen family opened the bath house on Cliff Road in 1912 — the year of the Titanic — and have run it for five generations since. The fittings inside are original: enormous glazed porcelain tubs, solid brass taps, panelled wooden shower cisterns. You sit in a cedar steam cabinet for ten minutes, climb into a private tub of hot seawater with a heap of fresh-cut bladderwrack on top, and stop thinking for two hours. There were roughly 300 seaweed bath houses on the Irish coast in 1900. There are a handful left. The fifth generation of the family is running this one.
Folklore in the townland names
The Black Pig
Local legend has a great black sow rampaging across the north of Connacht, killing everyone in her way, before being chased through Sligo to Lenadoon and swimming ashore at Enniscrone strand. The hunters finally killed her with long spears in a field at Muckdubh (Muc Dhubh — 'black pig') near Scurmore, where there is a tumulus still called the Grave of the Black Pig. The story is everywhere in north Connacht townland names. The town holds the Black Pig Festival every July around the legend — live music, soap-box derby, fun runs on the strand.
The O'Dowda ridge
Enniscrone Castle
Up on the ridge north-east of the town, in the open ground locals call Castle Field, sit the ruins of an early seventeenth-century semi-fortified house. The first reference to a castle here is from 1417, when Tadhg Riabhach Ó Dubhda — King of Tireragh — was inaugurated chieftain. The Burkes of Mayo took it in 1512, the O'Donnells of Donegal demolished it shortly after, the Mac Donnell gallowglasses sold it on to John Crofton in 1597. Above and around the castle are megalithic tombs five thousand years older again. The whole ridge is one long layered conversation about who owned the bay.
The Book of Lecan
The Mac Firbhisigh
The hereditary historians of Tireragh — the Mac Firbhisigh — kept a school of poetry and history at Lecan, a few miles up the coast, and compiled the Book of Lecan around 1417. The book includes the inauguration poem for the O'Dowda chieftain whose castle stood on the Enniscrone ridge. The family was dispossessed by James I in 1608. The last of the line, Dubhaltach Mac Fhirbhisigh, was murdered on a road in Sligo in 1671. The bay between Enniscrone and Lecan held one of the most important Gaelic learned families in the country, for centuries. You would never know it now to look at the dunes.