County Tipperary Ireland · Co. Tipperary · Barnane Save · Share
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BARNANE
CO. TIPPERARY · IE

Barnane
Bearnán, Co. Tipperary

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 06 / 06
Bearnán · Co. Tipperary

A car park, a gap in the hills, and a legend about the devil's dentistry.

Barnane is not a village so much as a place where the road stops and the mountain begins. The townland sits at the foot of the Devil's Bit - Bearnán Éile in Irish, the gapped hill of Éile - a 480-metre sandstone ridge that cuts the north Tipperary skyline with a notch so clean it looks intentional. It was, according to everyone who grew up nearby. The devil did it.

There is a car park, a trailhead, a forest, and a hill. That is the honest inventory. No pub in the hamlet, no café at the trailhead, no gift shop. Templemore is ten minutes down the road and has all of those things. Barnane has the mountain, which is the better deal.

The Carden family owned this land for centuries - Anglo-Irish landlords who arrived from Cheshire in the 1660s and stayed until the Land Commission bought them out in 1908. The most notorious of them, John Rutter Carden, spent the mid-nineteenth century evicting tenants, building a fake round tower halfway up the hill for reasons nobody fully recorded, and eventually landing in jail for attempting to abduct a woman who had refused to marry him. The tower is still there. It is called Carden's Folly, which is accurate on at least two levels.

Walk score
One loop, one mountain, done in two hours
Coords
52.8300° N, 7.8700° W
01 / 06

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 06

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

How a gap made a monument

The devil's dentistry

The story runs like this: the devil, flying over north Tipperary, paused to bite a chunk from the ridge - hence the notch, the Bearnán, the gap. He broke a tooth doing it. In his fury he spat the piece south. It landed thirty kilometres away, became a limestone outcrop, and in time became the Rock of Cashel - seat of the kings of Munster, site of a cathedral, one of Ireland's most-visited monuments. The geology is wrong in every detail. The mountain is sandstone; the Rock is limestone; they have nothing to do with each other. The story doesn't need the geology to be true.

August 1954

The cross on the Rock

A cross was erected on the natural rock outcrop at the summit - the 'bit' itself - in 1953-54, as part of the Marian Year. The Archbishop of Cashel and Emly blessed it on 22 August 1954. On a clear day the summit gives views claimed to reach nine counties: Tipperary, Clare, Galway, Kilkenny, Laois, Limerick, Offaly, Waterford, and Cork on a very good day. Locals have been disagreeing about the Cork since 1954.

The landlord who built the folly

Woodcock Carden

John Rutter Carden inherited the Barnane estate in 1842. He spent the following years clearing tenant farms, earning a string of court cases, and acquiring the nickname 'Woodcock' - supposedly because bullets never found him. He also built a tower on the hillside in the style of an Irish round tower, except round towers were a tenth-century thing and this was a nineteenth-century thing built for the view, or the vanity, or both. In 1854 he was convicted of attempting to abduct Eleanor Arbuthnot, a woman who had declined his proposal, and sentenced to two years in prison. The Barnane estate limped on until 1908, when the Land Commission bought it out under the Wyndham Act. The tower stands. It is called Carden's Folly.

03 / 06

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Devil's Bit Loop Starts from the Barnane car park. Sandy lanes, forestry tracks, open hillside. The loop itself doesn't summit - it circles the base - but a short spur to the cross on top adds twenty minutes and the whole point of being here. 200m ascent total. Moderate. The summit views south take in Slievenamon, the Galtees, the Comeraghs and the Knockmealdowns all at once.
5 kmdistance
1.5-2 hourstime
Carden's Folly extension Longer variation that takes in Carden's Folly tower and the Kilduff ridge before circling back. More elevation, longer forest sections, quieter than the main loop. The folly tower appears suddenly on a bend. Worth the extra kilometres.
8 kmdistance
2.5-3 hourstime
04 / 06

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

Clear days before the summer haze. The summit views carry furthest in April.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

The car park fills on weekends but the hill absorbs people quickly. Bring water - no facilities at the trailhead.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

The forest goes amber and the ridge line sharpens. Best light of the year up here.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

The upper path gets muddy and exposed. Not dangerous, but wear boots that mean it.

◐ Mind yourself
05 / 06

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Arriving without water or food

No café, no shop, no hatch at the car park. Templemore has everything; stock up before you drive out.

×
Skipping the summit spur

The loop alone is a pleasant forest walk. The summit - the actual gap the devil bit - is what you came for. The extra twenty minutes is not optional.

+

Getting there.

By car

Templemore is the nearest town, about 10 minutes east. From Templemore, follow signs for the Devil's Bit - the Barnane car park sits just off the road on the western approach to the ridge. From Thurles, allow 25 minutes. From Roscrea, 20 minutes.

By bus

No bus to the trailhead. Templemore has Bus Éireann services on the Dublin-Limerick route; from there you need a car or taxi.

By train

Templemore is on the Dublin Heuston-Limerick line. Regular daily services. Taxi from Templemore station to the car park is about €10.