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Templemore
An Teampall Mór

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 09 / 09
An Teampall Mór · Co. Tipperary

Where every Irish cop begins, and a mountain the devil bit clean through.

Templemore sits in the middle of Tipperary — literally, geographically — on the main rail line between Dublin and Cork, with a mountain to the west that has a chunk missing and a story to explain it. The name means 'big church'. The original church is gone. A Cistercian abbey came later. That is also mostly gone. What remains is a town park with medieval footings in the grass, and a name that still fits.

Since 1964, Templemore has been the place where every recruit to An Garda Síochána spends their first months in uniform. The Garda College occupies McCan Barracks, which the British Army built in 1809 on land donated by Sir John Carden. The recruits run the roads in the morning. They drink in the pubs at the weekend. The town has a rhythm that follows the college term.

In 1920, during the worst weeks of the War of Independence, Templemore briefly became the most talked-about place in Ireland. A sixteen-year-old named Jimmy Walsh said he was seeing visions of Our Lady. Statues in his home and in a nearby shop were reported to bleed. Up to fifteen thousand people a day came to witness it. The town was renamed Pilgrimville in the newspapers. Michael Collins grew suspicious, obtained one of the statues, and smashed it open. Inside was an alarm clock connected to fountain pen inserts filled with sheep's blood. Walsh emigrated to Australia in 1923 and spent the rest of his life trying to enter religious orders. Nobody ever fully explained why he did it.

Population
2,005
Walk score
Town in 15 minutes, mountain in 20 more
Founded
c. 1200 (abbey); town chartered 1815
Coords
52.7942° N, 7.8350° W
01 / 09

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 09

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Murphy's Pub

Local anchor, sport on, food all day
Traditional pub, Main Street, since 1964

Tom and Breda Murphy opened the doors the same year the Garda College took over the barracks. The coincidence is not lost on anyone. Refurbished in 2015 without losing the feel. Breakfast through dinner, traditional stout, the Malthouse Bar out the back for bigger nights.

Tom Maher's Inn

Sport, music, pool table, local regulars
Traditional pub, Patrick Street

Known around town as Tom the Bucks. Live music on Wednesdays and most weekends. Two bars, a beer garden, darts, karaoke when the mood is right. Not a quiet Tuesday kind of place.

The Temple Bar

Straightforward local
Pub, Main Street

Not the Dublin one. The Templemore one, which has existed considerably longer in the memory of the town's actual residents. Good pint of Guinness, no pretension.

Templemore Arms Bar

Three-star comfort, Karrigeen Lounge
Hotel bar, 93 Main Street

The bar attached to the town's main hotel. Carvery at lunch, à la carte in the evenings, the Greenwood Restaurant opens Friday and Saturday nights for something more considered. Useful if you want food and a pint in the same place.

03 / 09

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Templemore Arms Hotel Hotel restaurant and carvery €€ The Karrigeen Lounge does a carvery from noon and full à la carte in the evenings. Sunday roast is the main event. The Greenwood Restaurant runs Friday and Saturday nights — more formal, same kitchen, worth the upgrade.
Murphy's Pub Pub food, breakfast through dinner €€ Consistent. Full breakfast from early, lunch and dinner daily. Not trying to be a restaurant — it's pub food done properly, which is exactly what a town on a main rail line needs.
04 / 09

Where to sleep.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Templemore Arms Hotel 3-star hotel, 15 rooms 93 Main Street. Family-owned and managed. Fifteen ensuite bedrooms, free Wi-Fi, no private car park but the town square is directly outside. The only hotel in town and it does the job without drama.
05 / 09

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Fifteen thousand pilgrims and an alarm clock

The Miracles of 1920

On 16 August 1920, a Royal Irish Constabulary inspector was shot dead in Templemore by the IRA. That night, British forces carried out reprisals. Into this atmosphere of violence, a sixteen-year-old farm labourer named Jimmy Walsh announced he had received visions of Our Lady and that religious statues in his cottage and in Dwan's shop on the main street were weeping tears of blood. A holy well appeared in his bedroom floor. The story ran in every newspaper. Within days, up to fifteen thousand people a day were coming to Templemore — the newspapers called it Pilgrimville. Reported cures brought more. The IRA, concerned that a mass of civilians made ambushes impossible and Collins, suspicious of the whole business, had a statue sent to him in Dublin. He smashed it open. Inside: an alarm clock, fountain pen inserts, and sheep's blood — a mechanism that expelled blood at a set time. Walsh was brought to Dublin and questioned. Collins concluded he was not to be trusted. Labelled a potential spy, Walsh's life in Ireland effectively ended. He emigrated to Australia in 1923, changed his name, and spent decades trying and failing to enter religious orders. The statues stopped bleeding.

Built by the British, inherited by the Gardaí

McCan Barracks

Sir John Carden donated the land in 1809 and the British Army built Richmond Barracks on it — one of the larger garrison facilities in Munster, with accommodation for nearly 800 men, a hospital, a prison, a church, and stabling. It served British military purposes for over a century, passing through various names. After Irish independence it became the temporary home of various state tenants before sitting largely empty. On 21 February 1964, it was officially opened as the national training college for An Garda Síochána. The first recruits moved in that year. Every Garda officer who has served since has passed through Templemore first.

The mountain with a grudge against the plain

The Devil's Bit

Bearnán Éile — anglicised as Devil's Bit — rises to 480 metres northwest of town. The gap at its summit, a limestone notch visible from the road below, is the origin of the name. The story goes that the devil, flying over Tipperary, bit a chunk out of the hill in frustration or rage, then spat it south. The fragment landed thirty kilometres away and became the Rock of Cashel. The Rock of Cashel is real. The gap is real. The nine counties visible from the top on a clear day are, according to local tradition: Tipperary, Clare, Cork, Galway, Kilkenny, Laois, Limerick, Offaly, and Waterford. A cross stands at the summit. Pilgrims still climb it.

The big church, the ascendancy family, the burning

Templemore Abbey and the Cardens

The name Templemore — Teampall Mór, the big church — refers to a medieval abbey, possibly founded by the Knights Templar, whose ruins still sit in the Town Park north of town. The Carden family, who effectively built the modern town, built their house — also called Templemore Abbey — in the demesne around the ruins. That neo-Gothic mansion was burned in 1921 on orders attributed to Michael Collins, after the Auxiliaries vacated it. The demesne passed to the Urban District Council after independence and became the public park it is today. Walk through it on a quiet morning and you can find the medieval stonework in the grass.

06 / 09

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Devil's Bit Loop Drive ten minutes northwest on the R433 to the forest car park at Barnane. The loop runs through forest tracks and open hillside. The cross at the summit is reachable as an extension — the full summit adds elevation and a view that takes in nine counties on a clear day. Go in the morning before the cloud settles.
5 km loopdistance
1.5–2 hourstime
Templemore Town Park The former Carden demesne, now public parkland, with the ruins of the medieval abbey and the footprint of the burned mansion. A lake, old trees, and stonework in the grass. Good for an hour before or after the train.
Short walk, under 2 kmdistance
45 minutestime
07 / 09

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

Quiet, the Town Park starts to show its colours, and the Devil's Bit is good walking before the summer haze settles on the plain.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

No coach-tour crowds here. Templemore is not on the tourist circuit in any serious way, so summer is just summer — long evenings, pubs open late, the mountain accessible without booking anything.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep–Oct

The best walking weather. The plain below Devil's Bit is green and legible. College term is in full swing, which means the town is at its most itself.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

The mountain can close in with mist and the town quietens. The pubs stay open but the energy drops. A fine place to pass through on the train; a harder sell as a destination.

◐ Mind yourself
08 / 09

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Driving to the summit of Devil's Bit

There's no road to the top. The car park is at Barnane, below the treeline. You walk from there. Anyone who tells you otherwise is confusing it with a different hill.

×
Expecting the Garda College to be a visitor attraction

It is an active training facility. The gates are there, the recruits run past, but there's no public access and no tour. Appreciate it from the road and move on.

×
Treating Templemore as a Dublin–Cork motorway alternative

It's on the train line, not the motorway. If you're driving the M8, Templemore is invisible. If you're on the train, Templemore is one of the better reasons to get off.

+

Getting there.

By car

Thurles is 14 km south on the R660. Roscrea is 20 km north on the R445. The M8 Dublin–Cork motorway runs a few kilometres east — take the Templemore junction. Journey from Dublin is just under two hours.

By bus

Bus Éireann serves Templemore on Dublin–Tipperary town routes. Check current timetables — services vary by season.

By train

Templemore is a stop on the Dublin Heuston–Cork InterCity line, also served by the Dublin–Tralee route. Journey from Dublin Heuston is approximately 1 hour 40 minutes. Thurles is 10 minutes south. Not all services stop here — check before booking.

By air

Dublin Airport is approximately 1 hour 45 minutes by car. Shannon is 1 hour. Cork is 1 hour 30 minutes.