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Clonmore
Cluain Mór, Co. Tipperary

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 05 / 05
Cluain Mór · Co. Tipperary

A big meadow, a ruined church, and one very consequential stonemason.

Clonmore sits on the R433 between Templemore and the Laois border - six kilometres north-east of Templemore, seven from Errill. The name means big meadow, Cluain Mór, which is honest: this is flat, open north Tipperary farmland with a sky that goes on longer than it should. The village amounts to a church, a school, a community hall, and a crossroads. If you are expecting more, you have confused it with Clonmore in County Carlow, which has a sixth-century monastery and a very different biography.

The medieval church that gave the civil parish of Killavinoge its character stood near Dromard, in the fields outside the village. By the 1880s it was already ruins. The Book of County Tipperary noted in 1889 that the ancient church was said to have been built by the writer of the Book of Kilkenny - a claim that connects this quiet corner of north Tipperary to one of medieval Ireland's significant manuscript traditions, even if the attribution sits more in local memory than in documented evidence. The ruins are not a visitor attraction. They are a field with old stones in it, which is its own kind of monument.

The church you can actually visit - Saint Ann's, the Roman Catholic church built in 1832 - stands in the village. It serves the parish of Templemore, Clonmore and Killea, the three communities that in 1992 also merged their GAA clubs into J.K. Bracken's GAC. The club is named for Joseph Kevin Bracken, a stonemason born in Templemore in 1852 who happened to be one of the seven men who founded the GAA at Hayes's Hotel in Thurles on 1 November 1884. His connection to Clonmore is indirect - the parish, not the man - but the name on the club is as large a footnote to Irish cultural history as a village this size is likely to carry.

Walk score
The whole place in ten minutes
Coords
52.84° N, 7.78° W
01 / 05

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 05

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

What the name actually means

The Big Meadow

Cluain Mór - big meadow - is one of the most common place-name components in Ireland. There is a Clonmore in Carlow, another in Armagh, and this one in north Tipperary, and they are entirely different places with different histories. The Tipperary Clonmore is the small one: a village in the barony of Ikerrin, in the civil parish of Killavinoge, on the flat tillage land between Templemore and the Laois border. When you read about Clonmore's sixth-century monastery and Viking raids, you are reading about County Carlow. This Clonmore's story is quieter, older in a less dramatic way, and easy to misattribute.

An attribution the stones cannot confirm

The Writer of the Book of Kilkenny

George Henry Bassett's Book of County Tipperary, published in 1889, noted that near Dromard there were remains of an ancient church said to have been built by the writer of the Book of Kilkenny. The Book of Kilkenny is a real medieval manuscript - a significant one. Whether its scribe or patron built a church in this corner of Ikerrin is a claim that sits in local tradition rather than in any surviving document. What can be said is that the church ruins existed, the civil parish took its name from them, and the land around Dromard carried the memory long enough to make it into a county directory. The ruins are not signed or fenced. They are there in the sense that old stones in a field are there.

J.K. Bracken and the founding of the GAA

The Radical Stonemason

Joseph Kevin Bracken was born in Templemore in 1852, the son of a stonemason, and became one himself - a building contractor who expanded the family business into road work and monumental carving. He was also a Fenian, a member of the Irish Republican Brotherhood, and deeply involved in athletics. On 1 November 1884, he was one of the seven men present at Hayes's Hotel in Thurles when Archbishop Croke, Michael Cusack and the others established the Gaelic Athletic Association. Bracken served as a national vice-president from 1885 to 1887, and in that capacity chaired the 1887 meeting that adopted the rule barring RIC members from joining - the rule that made the association's political alignment explicit. He died of cancer in 1904, having spent his last two years in Kilmallock, far from Templemore. The GAA club that bears his name - J.K. Bracken's GAC, formed in 1992 from the merger of the Templemore, Clonmore and Killea clubs - competes at senior level in both hurling and football, which is rarer in Tipperary than it sounds. Bracken never played for it. But the club plays in his parish.

03 / 05

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

The road between Templemore and the Laois border is good walking country in April and May. The tillage fields are green before they go to crop. No crowds anywhere.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

North Tipperary does not have a tourist season in any meaningful sense. Summer is just summer. GAA is in full swing - follow J.K. Bracken's fixtures if that is your reason for being here.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

Harvest time on flat tillage land. The light on the plain in October is something. Templemore is twenty minutes by road if you need a meal or a proper pub.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Very quiet. There is no particular reason to come specifically to Clonmore in winter. It is a fine place to pass through on the way between Templemore and Roscrea.

◐ Mind yourself
04 / 05

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

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Confusing this Clonmore with the Carlow one

Clonmore, County Carlow has a sixth-century monastery, a round tower remnant, and a documented history going back to Saint Maedóc. This Clonmore is a different, smaller place. Both are real. Only one of them is in Tipperary.

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Coming specifically to see the ancient church ruins

The ruins near Dromard are not marked, not accessible as a visitor site, and not interpretable without specialist knowledge. If you want medieval church ruins in this part of Tipperary, Templemore's town park and Roscrea's round tower are more legible and easier to reach.

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Getting there.

By car

From Templemore, take the R433 north - Clonmore is 6 km, about eight minutes. From Roscrea, come south on the R445 to Templemore and then north on the R433. The M8 Dublin-Cork motorway runs a few kilometres east; take the Templemore junction and follow the R433 from town.

By bus

No direct bus service to Clonmore village. Bus Éireann serves Templemore (Dublin-Tipperary town routes); from there it is 6 km by road.

By train

Templemore station is on the Dublin Heuston-Cork InterCity line, also served by Dublin-Tralee services. From the station it is 6 km to Clonmore by road. Not all services stop at Templemore - check before travelling.