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CLOUGHJORDAN
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Cloughjordan
Cloch Shiurdáin

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 08 / 08
Cloch Shiurdáin · Co. Tipperary

A small Tipperary town that built the future on its doorstep.

Cloughjordan is two things at once and doesn't pretend otherwise. The older part is a North Tipperary market town — Main Street, two pubs, a church at each end, the post office, the museum in the old schoolhouse. The newer part, a few minutes' walk away, is something Ireland had never seen before: an intentional ecovillage of 55 low-carbon homes built on the grounds of an old Anglo-Irish estate, with its own district heating system, its own community farm, and its own argument about how things could be done.

The two sit side by side without much friction. People from the ecovillage drink in the same two pubs as people from the town. The village's community co-op runs the Middle Country Cafe on Main Street. The Thomas MacDonagh Museum is a joint concern — local history society, county council, the whole town. It works the way small places work when they decide to get on with it.

MacDonagh is the name you come across everywhere. He was born here in 1878, the son of the local Catholic schoolmaster, and the streets and fields he played in as a child came back to him in his poems — 'The Man Upright' and 'The Night Hunt' are the ones that made his reputation. He went to Dublin, fell in with the Gaelic Revival, taught at UCD, and signed the Proclamation of the Irish Republic. He was thirty-eight when they shot him. The annual summer school over the May bank holiday has been going for more than a decade — talks, readings, a Rambling House night.

The train still stops. Two each way per day on the Limerick–Ballybrophy line, which is two more than you'd expect for a place of 701 people. Come for a night. The ecovillage runs workshops. Django's hostel is inside the village gates. Cloughjordan House, a fifteen-minute walk from the station, does weddings and has rooms. The pace is deliberate — the ecovillage designed it that way.

Population
701
Pubs
2and counting
Walk score
Main Street in ten minutes; ecovillage in twenty
Coords
52.9333° N, 8.0333° W
01 / 08

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 08

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

The Corner House

Sports, fire, regulars
Local pub, formerly Ryan's

Open fire, big sports screen, outside benches when the weather allows. The regulars from the ecovillage end up here alongside the regulars from the town. It works.

The Clough Inn

Straightforward local
Local pub, Main Street

The other one. Two pubs is not many, but both are the real thing — no theming, no menu cards, just a bar.

03 / 08

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Middle Country Cafe Cafe & community co-op, Main Street Run by the Cloughjordan Community Co-op. Local food, art and crafts, community-minded and genuine. The building has the bones of an old pub — good bones. The best coffee stop between Nenagh and Roscrea.
Django's Hostel kitchen Hostel meals, ecovillage Simple, wholesome food served to guests. The hostel page mentions food and farming in the same breath. Not a restaurant in its own right, but part of what makes a stay here self-contained.
Cloughjordan House Country house, weddings & retreats €€€ Started as a cookery school. Now primarily a wedding venue, with rooms in converted cowsheds and the dairy. If you're staying here you're not wandering into the village for dinner — everything is on site.
04 / 08

Where to sleep.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Django's EcoHostel Hostel & B&B, inside the ecovillage Named after the hostel dog, himself named after Django Reinhardt. Six private en-suite rooms and three self-contained apartments. Breakfast included. Sustainability built in — woodchip heat, community ethos. Owner Pa gets consistent mentions in reviews. Book ahead; it fills with workshop groups.
Cloughjordan House Exclusive country house, 15-minute walk from station 800-year-old country house that began as a cookery school and grew into one of Tipperary's more unusual wedding venues. Accommodation in the Cowsheds, the Dairy, and the Coach House — all converted and properly done. Sleeps over 80. Rents as an exclusive hire for events.
05 / 08

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Ireland's first planned intentional community

The ecovillage

In the early 2000s, a group called Sustainable Projects Ireland bought 67 acres on the edge of Cloughjordan and applied for planning permission to build something Ireland hadn't seen: an intentional ecovillage. They got it. Between 2009 and 2013 they built 55 low-carbon homes connected by a district heating system that runs on woodchip and solar — saving an estimated 113 tonnes of carbon annually compared to conventional heating. A 12-acre community farm operates as one of Ireland's few Community Supported Agriculture projects: members pay a monthly fee and collect what the farm grows, three times a week, all year round. Eight native bat species forage across the site. Dark-sky lighting has been installed. Forty-seven more sites are in the pipeline when the water supply issue is resolved. It is not a utopia — it is a slow, real, working experiment that has been going for fifteen years and hasn't collapsed.

Poet, commandant, the Tipperary signatory

Thomas MacDonagh

Thomas MacDonagh was born on 1 February 1878 in Cloughjordan. His father Joseph was the local Catholic schoolmaster; the children were remembered as high-spirited, roaming the fields around the town. MacDonagh went on to teach at St Kieran's College in Kilkenny and later at UCD, where he lectured in English. He wrote plays, translated Irish poetry, and published the collection 'Lyrical Poems' in 1913. His late poems 'The Man Upright' and 'The Night Hunt' — both rooted in Cloughjordan's landscape and people — are the ones that secured his literary reputation. He was also one of seven men who signed the Proclamation of the Irish Republic on Easter Monday 1916. During the Rising he commanded the 2nd Battalion, Dublin Brigade, from Jacob's Biscuit Factory on Bishop Street. The factory saw little direct fighting; the British Army avoided it as they tightened positions elsewhere. MacDonagh surrendered on 30 April. He was court-martialled, convicted of treason, and shot in the yard of Kilmainham Gaol on 3 May 1916. He was thirty-eight years old. The museum on Main Street is in the building where he was baptised — free, volunteer-run, open most days.

One at each end of Main Street

The churches

St Kieran's Church of Ireland was designed by James Pain and completed in 1828 — half-way down Main Street, behind a stone wall and a screen of mature lime trees, the kind of small Gothic Revival building Pain turned out with quiet competence across Munster and Connacht. At the other end of town, the Catholic church of SS Michael and John was designed by George Ashlin and built in 1899. Ashlin was the partner and son-in-law of Edward Pugin, and his churches have the same confident Victorian Gothic hand. Two denominations, two architects, two ends of the same street, a century apart.

06 / 08

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

The MacDonagh Summer School runs over the May bank holiday weekend — talks, a Rambling House night, guided visits to sites that turned up in his poems. Worth timing around it.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

The ecovillage runs courses and open days. Django's fills with workshop groups and slow-travel visitors. Not exactly busy — just purposeful.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep–Oct

Harvest on the community farm. The Tipperary countryside around here is good in autumn — flat enough to cycle, quiet enough to hear yourself.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

The ecovillage keeps going year-round but visitor-facing things thin out. Django's stays open. The woodchip heating means the ecovillage is the warmest thing for miles.

◐ Mind yourself
07 / 08

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
A rushed half-day visit from Nenagh or Roscrea

You will see the museum, nod at the ecovillage entrance, and leave thinking it was interesting. Stay a night in Django's. Walk the farm. That's when it lands.

×
Expecting a restaurant scene

There are two pubs and a community cafe. The cafe is good. The pubs don't do food. Cloughjordan House is a wedding venue, not a drop-in dinner option. Know this before you arrive hungry at eight.

×
Driving past on the way to somewhere else

The train stops here. The museum is free. The ecovillage is fifteen years old and still the only thing of its kind in Ireland. Half an hour off the N52 is not a detour — it's the point.

+

Getting there.

By car

Nenagh is 18km northwest on the R490. Roscrea is 22km east. Birr in Offaly is about 25km north. The village sits squarely between them — North Tipperary, close to the Offaly border.

By bus

Bus Éireann serves the route but infrequently. Check the timetable rather than assuming. A car makes the area properly accessible.

By train

Cloughjordan station is on the Limerick–Ballybrophy line — two trains per day in each direction. The Ballybrophy end connects with the Dublin–Cork main line. From Dublin Heuston: change at Ballybrophy, about 2.5 hours total. From Limerick Colbert: direct, about 50 minutes.