County Tipperary Ireland · Co. Tipperary · Terryglass Save · Share
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TERRYGLASS
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Terryglass
Tír Dhá Ghlas

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 09 / 09
Tír Dhá Ghlas · Co. Tipperary

Two pubs, a medieval manuscript, and Lough Derg out the window.

Terryglass is the kind of small that takes ten minutes to understand and several visits to properly like. Two hundred and some people, two pubs, a quay on Lough Derg, and a medieval history completely out of proportion to the size of the place. The village won the national Tidy Towns competition in 1983 and again in 1997. Walk around it and you understand why: nothing is out of place, everything is exactly where it should be.

The history is real. A monastery was founded here around 548 AD by St Columba of Terryglass — not the famous Colmcille of Iona, a different Columba entirely, one of the Twelve Apostles of Ireland according to tradition. Six centuries later, the monastery's abbot, Áed Ua Crimthainn, compiled the Book of Leinster — a vast 12th-century manuscript of Irish history, mythology, and poetry that is now in Trinity College Dublin. The monastery is mostly rubble. The book lasted.

What draws people now is simpler: the lake, the pubs, and the quiet. Shannon cruisers tie up at the quay and their crews walk five minutes into the village for a pint at Paddy's or The Derg Inn. Cyclists on the Lough Derg Blueway stop for lunch. The Terryglass Arts Festival runs every August — drama, storytelling, visual art, music — and for a week the village goes several sizes bigger than itself. The rest of the year it goes back to being exactly what it is.

Population
~243
Pubs
2and counting
Walk score
Village in ten minutes, quay in five more
Founded
c. 548 AD (monastic)
Coords
52.9333° N, 8.2167° W
01 / 09

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 09

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Paddy's Bar

Old bones, proper welcome
Pub, restaurant & accommodation, est. 1829

One of the oldest licensed premises in Tipperary. The Tierney family have run it since 2006. Food from local producers, rooms and lakeside cottages attached. The kind of pub that has been doing the same things for a very long time and has no intention of stopping.

The Derg Inn

Lively, food-led
Pub & gastropub, Main Street

On the Georgina Campbell guide, on the Bridgestone guide, and on The Guardian's list of Irish gastropubs. All homemade, local and organic produce, beer garden inside the old bawn wall. Seats 150. Busier than the village's size would suggest.

03 / 09

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Paddy's Bar Pub food and restaurant €€ Local-produce cooking in the old bar. The attached cottages mean the kitchen runs breakfasts too. Reliable, unfussy, better than you expect for a village this small.
The Derg Inn Gastropub €€ All-day food, all homemade. The soup is made on the premises. So are the sauces and the desserts. Recommended by every Irish food guide worth reading.
04 / 09

Where to sleep.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Paddy's Bar Cottages Historic cottages Renovated lakeside cottages attached to the pub. Described as 148-year-old cottages. Two minutes from the bar, five from the quay. Booking direct is the obvious approach.
River Run House & Cottages Self-catering Three cottages and two apartments in a converted house, run by Caragh Walsh and Geraldine Gormally. Sleeps up to 30 across all units. Log-burning stoves, Nespresso machines, five-minute stroll to the quay. Across the road from both pubs.
05 / 09

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

A manuscript from a village no one has heard of

The Book of Leinster

Around 1151, the abbot of Terryglass monastery began compiling one of the most important medieval manuscripts in the Irish language. Áed Ua Crimthainn — described by the bishop of Kildare as the chief scholar of Leinster — wrote in his own hand on f. 32r: "Áed Húa Crimthaind wrote this book and collected it from many books." The Book of Leinster runs to hundreds of folios of history, mythology, genealogy, and poetry. Terryglass monastery was burned in 1164, which is why the manuscript was finished elsewhere. It is now in the Library of Trinity College Dublin, where it has been since the 17th century.

Not the Iona Columba. A different saint entirely.

St Columba — the other one

There are at least three important Irish saints named Columba, and the confusion is permanent. The Columba of Terryglass — Columba mac Crimthainn — was a disciple of St Finnian of Clonard and is counted among the Twelve Apostles of Ireland. He founded the monastery here around 548 AD and died of plague in 552. His headache well is still in the village. People still visit it. The well for headaches is dedicated to the saint who died of plague, which is either appropriate or troubling depending on your disposition.

National Tidy Towns, 1983 and 1997

Twice the tidiest

Winning the national Tidy Towns competition once is unusual. Terryglass won it twice, fourteen years apart. The village keeps a standard that most places three times its size never reach. This is not accidental — it takes the kind of collective effort that only works in a place where everyone knows exactly who is and is not pulling their weight.

06 / 09

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Terryglass Quay and lakeshore Out from the village green to the quay, along the shore path, back through the village. The lake is the point. Do it in the evening when the cruisers are moored and the light is off the water.
2–3 km loopdistance
30–45 mintime
Lough Derg Blueway (Terryglass section) The Blueway follows the eastern shore of Lough Derg through Terryglass, Garrykennedy, and Dromineer. Signposted loops of 11 km, 28 km, and 46 km along quiet public roads. Bring a bike — the cycling is the reason.
11–46 km depending on loopdistance
Half day to full daytime
Portumna Forest Park (by bike) Portumna is at the northern tip of Lough Derg, about 40 minutes by bike from Terryglass. Looped off-road trails through the forest and along the lakeshore. Good destination if you're already cycling the Blueway.
Approx 40 km return from Terryglassdistance
Half daytime
07 / 09

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

Lake is quiet, pubs are unpressured, the Lough Derg shoreline is at its clearest. Bring waterproofs — this is Tipperary, not Tuscany.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

The Arts Festival runs in August and the village goes busy. Shannon cruisers fill the quay from June onward. Worth it — but book accommodation well ahead.

◐ Mind yourself
Autumn
Sep–Oct

The cruisers leave, the pubs settle, the lake is dramatic. September is the locals' favourite month here and they are not wrong.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

Very quiet. Both pubs stay open but the village contracts considerably. Worth a Sunday afternoon if you want Lough Derg without another soul on it.

◐ Mind yourself
08 / 09

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Driving past on the R493 without stopping

Terryglass sits a kilometre off the main road and most people miss it. The detour takes two minutes and the quay alone justifies it.

×
Coming for one pint and leaving

The village is small enough that you see all of it in twenty minutes. But the point is the pace, not the inventory. Sit down properly. Order food. Go out to the quay. Come back.

×
Expecting a beach or swimming spot at the quay

Terryglass quay is a mooring and boat harbour, not a beach. If you want a swim on Lough Derg, Dromineer or Garrykennedy are better set up for it.

+

Getting there.

By car

Nenagh is 25 km south on the R493, about 30 minutes. Portumna (Co. Galway) is 20 km north. The village sits on the Lough Derg Drive — follow the R493 along the eastern shore.

By bus

No direct bus service to Terryglass. Nenagh is the nearest town with Bus Éireann connections. From Nenagh, a taxi or a hire car is the practical option.

By train

Nenagh has a train station on the Limerick–Ballybrophy line. Terryglass is 25 km from there by road.