County Tyrone Ireland · Co. Tyrone · Moy Save · Share
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MOY
CO. TYRONE · IE

Moy
An Maigh, Co. Tyrone

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 08 / 08
An Maigh · Co. Tyrone

A square that wanted to be Lombardy, a horse fair that stopped the world one Saturday a year, and a river that is also a county boundary.

Moy sits at a river crossing that has mattered for four centuries. The Blackwater runs along its eastern edge - and the far bank is County Armagh, another jurisdiction, the small settlement of Charlemont. You can cross on foot in two minutes. Most people who come to Moy don't realise they're doing it.

What gives the village its particular character is the square. The 1st Earl of Charlemont was an 18th-century aesthete who spent years on the European continent absorbing architecture and came home with opinions. He laid out the rectangular market place in the 1760s after the piazza at Bosco Marengo in Lombardy. Horse-chestnut trees, wide lawns, mid-Georgian terraces on four sides. The square is genuinely handsome in a way that makes you wonder what the plan was, exactly, for a village in mid-Ulster.

The plan was commerce. The horse fair that grew from the monthly livestock market became, in its prime, one of the great fairs of the island - attended by dealers from England, Scotland, and the continent, running for days at a stretch, filling every available inch of the square and the surrounding fields with horses, cattle, money, and the particular noise a fair produces. That world has passed. What remains is the square - still wide enough for it, still lined by buildings that were built to watch it - and the name Horse Fair Meadows on the edge of the village, marking the ground where the dealing once happened.

The Blackwater border means Moy has always been a crossing-point. Come for the square, walk over the bridge to the fort, eat and drink on the Tyrone side where the pubs are, and leave knowing you were briefly in two counties without having done anything more strenuous than a five-minute walk.

Population
1,941
Walk score
Square to the bridge in five minutes
Founded
c. 1765
Coords
54.4458° N, 6.6814° W
01 / 08

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 08

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Tomney's Bar

Locals, live music, Art Deco interior
Traditional Irish pub

Trading since the 1760s - the year the square was laid out. The 1946 refit is intact: dark wood, stained glass, a beer garden out the back. Live music Thursday to Sunday. Ulster Pub of the Year, and you can see why.

The Ryandale

Smart, food-led
Bar and restaurant

Right on the square at 16-18. The bar is the ground-floor anchor of the four-star inn. Good for a drink if you're not eating - but you probably should be eating.

03 / 08

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
The Ryandale Restaurant Fine dining £££ The dining room of the Ryandale Inn. Award-winning kitchen, local produce, proper linen. The kind of place that does weddings and does them well - which tells you the food is reliable under pressure.
Tomney's Bar kitchen Pub food ££ Food served through the week in the pub. Good honest bar meals. Order at the counter and take a seat near the fireplace.
04 / 08

Where to sleep.

PlaceTypeLocal note
The Ryandale Inn Four-star inn 16-18 The Square - you are literally sleeping on the square. Family-run, four-star quality assurance. En-suite rooms, Wi-Fi, dinner available downstairs. The sensible choice if you want to be in the middle of the village.
Charlemont House B&B Just across the bridge on the Armagh bank - which means a two-minute walk back into Moy. Approved B&B in a period house. Good for those who want a quieter berth and a short morning stroll to the square.
05 / 08

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Once a week, buyers came from across Europe

The great horse fair

Moy fair began as a regular livestock market in the newly laid-out village of the 1760s and grew into something much larger over the following century. At its height it was one of the most significant horse fairs in Ireland - dealers arrived from England, Scotland, and continental Europe, the square filled with animals, and the dealing went on for days. The fair that had once dominated the economy of mid-Ulster faded through the 20th century as road transport, bloodstock auctions, and two world wars changed how horses were bought and sold. It no longer runs. The name Horse Fair Meadows, on the housing estate at the edge of the village, is what the fair left behind.

An Italian piazza in County Tyrone

The square and the Grand Tour

James Caulfeild, 1st Earl of Charlemont (1728-1799), was one of the 18th century's great cultural travellers - he spent nearly ten years in Italy and the eastern Mediterranean and came back a changed man. When he laid out Moy in the 1760s he modelled the market square on the piazza at Bosco Marengo in Lombardy, a small town in Piedmont he had admired during his Grand Tour. The square's unusual width and geometry for an Ulster village is the direct result: a continental idea transplanted to the Blackwater Valley. Caulfeild went on to found the Royal Irish Academy and was known as the Volunteer Earl for his support of the Irish Volunteer movement. The square he left behind is his most visible legacy.

The Tyrone connection to Austen's first love

Thomas Lefroy and Jane Austen

Thomas Langlois Lefroy (1776-1869) was born in Limerick - his father was an army officer posted there - but the family had deep roots in the Moy area and County Tyrone, where his sister Lucinda later lived and died. In December 1795, at a Hampshire ball, the nineteen-year-old Lefroy - then a law student at Lincoln's Inn - met a twenty-year-old Jane Austen. The flirtation that followed was sharp and mutual. Austen wrote to her sister that she had danced twice with a 'very gentlemanlike, good-looking, pleasant young man' and that they were 'considerably related'. By January 1796 the two families had decided the attachment was going nowhere: Lefroy needed to marry money, and Austen had none. He departed. She never forgot. Lefroy went on to become Lord Chief Justice of Ireland (1852-1866) and died at 93. Late in life he admitted to having been 'in love' with Austen - but added that it had been 'a boyish love'. Scholars have suggested he is the original of Mr Darcy. He is buried at Mount Jerome Cemetery, Dublin.

1602 - built to hold the Blackwater

Charlemont Fort across the bridge

Walk east from the square, cross Dargan's triple-arched stone bridge (built 1855, County Armagh side), and you're standing in front of what survives of one of the most strategically important forts in Ulster history. Charles Blount, Lord Mountjoy, had it built in the summer of 1602 at the end of the Nine Years' War to lock down the Blackwater crossing - a star fort with four earthen bastions, one of the most modern military works in Ireland at the time. It was seized by Sir Phelim O'Neill in 1641, besieged by Cromwell's forces in 1650, garrisoned until the 19th century, and burned by the IRA in July 1920. The 17th-century gatehouse survived the fire. The earthwork bastions are still legible in the grass behind it. The rest is the field.

06 / 08

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

The horse-chestnut trees in the square come into candle and the village is at its most itself before the summer traffic starts.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Long Ulster evenings, sessions in Tomney's, the Blackwater good for a riverside walk. August is the month the old horse fair used to run - the village remembers it.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

Chestnuts on the square, the river high, fewer visitors. Tomney's feels like itself again after the summer.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

The Blackwater floods. The low road by the Charlemont gatehouse can go under water - check before driving over. The square is quiet and grey and worth the detour anyway.

◐ Mind yourself
07 / 08

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Expecting a star fort you can walk around

Charlemont Fort burned in 1920. What's there is a seventeenth-century gatehouse and the earthwork outline of four bastions in a field. It rewards someone who reads the landscape; it disappoints someone who expected walls and parapets.

×
Looking for the horse fair

It no longer runs. The square is beautiful and the history is real, but there are no horses changing hands on a Saturday in August. The fair is memory now, and the memorial is a housing estate name.

×
Treating Moy and Charlemont as separate days out

They're one settlement split by a river and a county boundary. Park on either side, walk the bridge, do both in an afternoon. Anything else is just creating work for yourself.

+

Getting there.

By car

Dungannon is 8km north on the A29, about 10 minutes. Armagh city is 15km south, about 20 minutes. Belfast is an hour on the M1 via Dungannon. Dublin is about 90 minutes south on the M1.

By bus

Translink Ulsterbus 278 (Armagh-Dungannon) runs through Moy and stops at the square. Roughly hourly Monday to Saturday, reduced on Sunday.

By train

Nearest station is Portadown, 18km east - about 20 minutes by car. Portadown is on the Dublin-Belfast Enterprise line.

By air

Belfast International (BFS) is 55 minutes north-east on the M1. Dublin Airport (DUB) is about 100 minutes south.