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SALTMILLS
CO. WEXFORD · IE

Saltmills
Na Muilte Salainn, Co. Wexford

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 06 / 06
Na Muilte Salainn · Co. Wexford

A name from a vanished industry, and Tintern Abbey at the end of the road.

Saltmills is the village you might miss on the way to Tintern Abbey. A bend in the road, a small bridge over the tidal creek, a chapel, a clutch of houses, and the woodland gates of the abbey a few minutes south. The name is the first thing worth knowing - it is not a corruption or a translation, it is a description. Salt mills stood here. Sea-water was drawn off the inlet at high tide, run into shallow pans, evaporated and finally boiled down on coal or turf to leave crystals behind. Salt was the medieval preservative - without it, fish did not travel and meat did not winter. By the time you could buy mined salt from England in barrels, the mills had nothing to do. They went. The name did not.

The other thing to know is that almost everything you might come for is south of the village rather than in it. Tintern de Voto, the Cistercian abbey William Marshal vowed from a storm in Bannow Bay and built around 1200, is a kilometre down the road on its own wooded estate, with five waymarked Coillte trails, a thirteenth-century church, and the Colclough walled garden across the bridge. From the village itself you can walk the bay shore, look back across the water at the spit where the Normans landed in 1169, and not see anything that says so. That is part of the appeal. Saltmills does not tell you what happened here. You have to know.

Population
Tiny - a hamlet of a few dozen houses
Walk score
A bridge, a road, a chapel. Five minutes end to end.
Coords
52.2381° N, 6.8367° W
01 / 06

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 06

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

A medieval salt works

Why it is called Saltmills

Salt was made on this inlet in the medieval and early-modern period by a process called salt-panning. Sea-water was let in at high tide and held in shallow rectangular pans cut into the foreshore or built up with clay banks. Sun and wind did the first work; once the brine was concentrated enough it was drawn into iron pans and boiled over peat or coal until the salt crystallised. The product fed the fish and meat trade out of Bannow Bay and the wider south-Wexford coast in the centuries before refrigeration. The mills closed long before living memory. The place name is the only above-ground record.

The abbey on the vow

Tintern de Voto

Around 1200 William Marshal, First Earl of Pembroke and the most powerful Norman in Ireland, was caught in a bad storm crossing to Wexford. He vowed that if he made shore alive he would found an abbey. He made landfall at Bannow Bay. He kept the vow. Cistercians were brought from his Welsh foundation at Tintern in Monmouthshire - the Welsh house became Tintern Major, the Wexford one Tintern de Voto, Tintern of the Vow. The Colclough family took it at the Dissolution in 1536 and lived in the converted nave until 1959. The state took over in 1963. The thirteenth-century nave, chancel and tower still stand and you can walk into them. Free to the grounds; a charge for the building.

The landing seen from the other side

Bannow Bay from the back

On 1 May 1169 Robert FitzStephen and his Welsh-Norman force beached on the eastern shore of Bannow Bay, took Wexford town the week after, and started the Anglo-Norman conquest of Ireland. Saltmills sits on the western shore of the same bay, looking across the water at the spit where it happened. There is no marker on the Saltmills side. There does not need to be. Stand at the shore at low tide and you can see the bay the same shape it has always been, sandbanks shifting only a little year to year. The ships came in at the far side. The story started over there.

03 / 06

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Tintern Trails Coillte runs five waymarked walks out of the Tintern Abbey car park, a kilometre south of the village. The short Mr Rose's Garden loop is one kilometre; the long Caesar Colclough trail runs eleven. Beech and oak woodland, bluebells in late April, the river running down to the bay. Free. The proper reason to come.
1-11 km, take your pickdistance
20 minutes to 3 hourstime
The Colclough Walled Garden Restored two-acre walled garden across the medieval bridge from the abbey. Box-edged beds, an orchard, glasshouses. Run by a charity separately from the OPW abbey, so check opening days before you walk over. Tea and cake at the gate cottage in season.
Across the abbey bridgedistance
30-60 minutestime
The Bannow Bay shore Pick a spot off the local roads east of the village and walk the shore at low tide. Mud, eel-grass, oystercatchers, curlew. Brent geese in from the Canadian Arctic from October. Wellies in winter. Binoculars year round.
As far as you fancydistance
1-2 hourstime
04 / 06

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

Tintern bluebells from mid-April. Wild garlic underfoot. The abbey reopens for the season and the woodland is at its best before the coach traffic builds.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Tintern is on the Norman Way circuit and the car park fills on fine weekends. Come early or come midweek. The bay is at its warmest if anyone fancies a paddle.

◐ Mind yourself
Autumn
Sep-Oct

Copper in the abbey woods, brent geese arriving on the bay, the coaches gone. The locals' month. Probably the best time to come.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Tintern's tower closes for winter; the grounds and the trails stay walkable. The walled garden runs reduced days. Wind off the bay is real. Go for the weather, not despite it.

◐ Mind yourself
05 / 06

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Looking for a village centre

There isn't one. Saltmills is a bend in the road with a chapel and a few houses. The point of the place is what is next to it, not what is in it.

×
Trying to eat or sleep in the village

No restaurants, no B&Bs, no pub in the village itself. Eat at Nevilles in Fethard-on-Sea or in Duncannon. Sleep in Wexford town, Arthurstown or out on the Hook.

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Getting there.

By car

On the R734 between Wellingtonbridge and Fethard-on-Sea, about 40 minutes south-west of Wexford town and 35 minutes east of Waterford via the Passage East ferry. Tintern Abbey is signed off the same road a kilometre south of the village.

By bus

No scheduled service through Saltmills itself. Local Link routes serve Wellingtonbridge and Fethard-on-Sea. A car is the honest answer.

By train

No station. Nearest open stations are Wexford and Rosslare Europort to the east, or Waterford Plunkett across the estuary.

By air

Dublin Airport is 2h 15m. Cork is 2h 30m. Waterford Airport is closest but limited.