County Wicklow Ireland · Co. Wicklow · Carnew Save · Share
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CO. WICKLOW · IE

Carnew
Carn an Bhua, Co. Wicklow

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 09 / 09
Carn an Bhua · Co. Wicklow

On 25 May 1798, yeomanry marched 28 prisoners from Carnew Castle to the local handball alley and shot them. News of it spread into Wexford and lit the rebellion.

Carnew sits at the bottom of Wicklow, one mile from the Wexford border, in a stretch of country that feels different from the mountain landscapes further north. The hills here are lower, the farms larger, the air less dramatic. It is a working market town - it has been one since a Royal Charter in 1247 named it a Norman borough - and it does not try to be anything else.

The thing that marks it out, permanently, is 25 May 1798. The United Irishmen rebellion had broken out in County Kildare the previous day. News of it reached the garrison at Carnew Castle by morning. Holding perhaps two dozen suspected rebels in the castle cells - their guilt unproven, their trials unscheduled - the yeomanry marched them out to the local Gaelic handball alley on the edge of town and shot them. The number most often cited is twenty-eight. The same day, a similar massacre took place at Dunlavin, twenty kilometres north. Together the two events ran ahead of the rebellion itself, into the farmhouses of south Wicklow and across the border into Wexford, and turned what had been a planned rising into something rawer and faster. On 7 June, a column of Wexford rebels led by Anthony Perry came north, burned the town, and sacked it in reprisal.

The castle where the prisoners were held is still on Main Street. In its current form it dates mainly to the early seventeenth century - a Jacobean tower house on older Norman foundations, built or rebuilt when Sir Henry Harrington held the barony of Shillelagh. It was damaged in the 1798 violence and reroofed in the nineteenth century by the Fitzwilliam family. It is a private home now, granite rubble visible through crumbling render, a bartizan on the north-west corner. Most people drive past it without knowing what happened on the ground in front of it.

Outside that history, Carnew is a town with a main street, a few pubs, and a landscape of modest south Wicklow farmland in every direction. Tomnafinnoge Woods, the last surviving fragment of the great oak forests of Shillelagh, is about five kilometres away between Shillelagh and Tinahely - the nearest proper walking country. The town itself is a useful base for that border stretch of Wicklow rather than a destination in its own right.

Population
~1,052 (Census 2016)
Walk score
Flat town centre; border country roads beyond
Founded
Norman borough, Royal Charter 1247
Coords
52.7161° N, 6.4489° W
01 / 09

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

01 The 1798 Executions

Twenty-eight prisoners were shot here on 25 May 1798.

By the morning of 25 May, news of the rebellion in County Kildare had reached the garrison at Carnew Castle. The yeomanry, holding United Irishmen suspects in the castle cells, marched them to the handball alley on the edge of town and executed them by firing squad. Together with a similar massacre at Dunlavin the same day, the killings spread across County Wicklow and into Wexford, turning rumour into fact and accelerating what became the largest rising of the rebellion.

Read the full story →
02 Carnew Castle

Norman origins, a Jacobean rebuild, and it is still standing.

The castle in the middle of town dates in its present form to the early seventeenth century, though its foundations go back to the 1300s. It was used as a garrison barracks in 1798 and damaged during the rebellion. In the nineteenth century it was reroofed by the Fitzwilliam family and later used as a rectory. It is now a private home - a three-storey tower house still visible on Main Street.

Castle history →
03 South Wicklow border country

The most southerly town in Wicklow, one mile from Wexford.

Carnew sits in a stretch of rolling farmland where the county boundary means little on the ground. Shillelagh is eight kilometres north-west. Tinahely is ten kilometres north. Gorey, over the Wexford border, is about fifteen kilometres south. The town had its own market from the Norman period onward; the pattern of small tillage farms around it has not changed much in three centuries.

Getting there →
02 / 09

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Jim Byrne's

Satellite sport, pool room, a proper local
Traditional pub, Carnew

Bar and lounge with satellite TV for sport, a pool room, darts, and a jukebox. The kind of pub that serves the town rather than the tourist.

Sinnott's Bar

Live music Saturdays, the main social address in town
Pub with guesthouse rooms, Carnew

Live music every Saturday night and outdoor seating. Rooms available above. The most active venue in town on a weekend.

03 / 09

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Sinnott's Bar Pub food, Carnew Bar food alongside the drinks trade. The town has no standalone restaurant - Sinnott's is the main food option in the evening.
04 / 09

Where to sleep.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Sinnott's Bar Guesthouse rooms above the pub, Carnew Rooms for up to eight guests above the bar. Basic but functional - and the only accommodation in the town itself. For something more considered, Stoops House at Coolattin, a few kilometres north-west, is a family-run guesthouse in its own grounds.
05 / 09

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Twenty-eight prisoners, a handball alley, and the morning the rebellion accelerated

The Carnew Executions, 25 May 1798

By the morning of 25 May 1798, news had reached Carnew that the United Irishmen had risen in County Kildare the previous day. Crown forces had been attacked at Ballymore-Eustace, Naas, and Prosperous. The garrison at Carnew Castle - local yeomanry - were holding a group of men suspected of United Irish membership. No trials had been scheduled. Fearing what a rebellion in the area might mean for prisoners capable of joining it, the garrison commander ordered them marched to the Gaelic handball alley on the edge of town. There, twenty-eight men were executed by firing squad. The same day, twenty kilometres north at Dunlavin, another group of prisoners was killed on the green. The two events together - summary executions of men who had not been tried - ran as news into the farmhouses of south Wicklow and across the Wexford border, lending substance to the worst rumours already circulating about what Crown forces intended. They did not prevent the rebellion. On 7 June, a Wexford rebel column under Anthony Perry came north to Carnew, burned the town, and sacked it. The handball alley where the executions took place is still identified locally.

Norman borough to garrison barracks to private home

Carnew Castle

Carnew first appears in records in 1247 as the Norman borough of 'Carnebothe', granted a Royal Charter by Henry III as an outpost of the Anglo-Norman colonisation of the liberty of Wexford. The earliest defensive structures were motte-and-bailey earthworks; OS maps from the 1830s identified at least seven 'moats' around the town. The stone castle on Main Street dates in its foundations to the early fourteenth century, built by the de Caunteton family, though the structure that stands now is largely a Jacobean rebuild. In 1619 a Welshman named Calcott Chambre leased the castle and established an iron-smelting industry outside the town; during the 1641 rebellion, Chambre and around 160 settlers were besieged in the castle for twenty-two weeks. The castle was damaged in 1798 and again in its aftermath. The Fitzwilliam family had it reroofed in the early nineteenth century. It served as a rectory at some point and has been a private home since at least the mid-twentieth century. It is a three-storey tower house, granite rubble showing through crumbled render, a curved bay on the south elevation and a bartizan on the north-west corner - visible from the road on Main Street.

06 / 09

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Tomnafinnoge Woods The last surviving fragment of the great oak forests of Shillelagh, a Special Area of Conservation roughly five kilometres north-west of Carnew between the villages of Shillelagh and Tinahely. Four marked trails: the Oak Walk (3.2 km), River Walk (2 km each way), Beech Walk, and Hazel Walk (1.3 km). Ancient oaks dominate; deer are regularly seen. The closest proper woodland walking to Carnew.
Four waymarked trails, 1.3 km to 3.2 kmdistance
30 minutes to 1.5 hours depending on routetime
07 / 09

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

Tomnafinnoge Woods is at its best in April and May with bluebells on the forest floor. South Wicklow farmland is quiet and uncrowded. The 25 May anniversary of the 1798 executions occasionally draws commemoration events.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

The border country around Carnew sees a fraction of the tourist traffic that hits coastal Wicklow and Glendalough. The town functions normally, the woods are walkable, and accommodation is easier to find than elsewhere in the county.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

Tomnafinnoge in October is as good as the woods get - the ancient oaks turn slow, the deer are active, and the trails are mostly empty. The drive through south Wicklow farmland in autumn light is the best reason to make the trip.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

The town is quiet in winter in the way a working market town goes quiet - the pubs still open, the main street still functions, but there is no particular reason to make a special journey. The woods can be muddy after November rain.

◐ Mind yourself
08 / 09

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Expecting a restaurant scene

Carnew has Sinnott's Bar for food and not much else in the way of evening dining. Gorey, fifteen kilometres south over the Wexford border, has a proper range of restaurants. If food is the priority, eat there and visit Carnew in the afternoon.

×
Driving past the castle without stopping

Carnew Castle on Main Street looks, from a moving car, like a run-down house. It is the building where twenty-eight men were held the night before they were executed. It is worth stopping the car and looking at it for a few minutes.

×
Coming without knowing the 1798 story

The town makes more sense, and the castle means something, if you know what happened here on 25 May 1798. Five minutes reading before you arrive pays for itself when you are standing on Main Street.

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Getting there.

By car

Dublin city centre to Carnew is approximately 100 km - allow 1 hour 30 minutes via the N11/M11 south through Gorey, then north-west on the R747. From Gorey the drive is around fifteen kilometres, about fifteen minutes. From Rathdrum, allow around forty minutes south via Tinahely.

By bus

TFI Local Link Carlow Kilkenny Wicklow operates services connecting Carnew with Gorey to the south and Shillelagh to the north-west. Check locallinkckw.ie for current timetables - services are infrequent and the car is the practical approach for most visitors.