Sabhall Phádraig · Co. Down
Where Patrick landed, where Patrick preached, where Patrick died. A barn became Ireland.
Saul is a hamlet. A crossroads, a church, a hill, a pub, and a few rows of new estates creeping out from Downpatrick two miles west. Drive through it without slowing and you'll think you've missed it. You have. The point of Saul is what happened here once, not what's here now.
What happened: in AD 432, by tradition, a Romano-British missionary called Patrick was swept into Strangford Lough by the tides, came ashore at the mouth of the Slaney River, and was given a barn by the local chieftain Dichu to preach in. The Irish word for barn is sabhall. The village has been called that ever since. Patrick is said to have died here on 17 March 461, and was carried two miles west to be buried in Downpatrick. The cathedral there has the grave. Saul has the start.
Two buildings carry the weight. The Memorial Church — Henry Seaver, 1932, Mourne granite, replica round tower — was put up for the 1500th anniversary and looks older than it is on purpose. The statue on Slieve Patrick, unveiled 1938, is the world's tallest Patrick. The walk up takes twenty minutes from the church gate. Bring a coat; the hill is exposed.
Don't make a day of it. Make a morning. Pair Saul with Down Cathedral and Struell Wells along the Saint Patrick's Way pilgrim path, and you've got the saint's whole County Down chapter in one loop. The first Sunday of June is the annual pilgrimage and the village fills — every other day, it's you and the wind.