County Westmeath doesn’t make a lot of noise about itself, and that’s part of what makes cycling through it such a good experience. This is Ireland’s Hidden Heartland territory - green rolling hills, blue lake shores, quiet canals, and rural villages that haven’t been touched up for the tourist trade. You move through it at your own pace, stopping when you want to, taking as long as you like at the places that catch your eye.
You start at Mullingar Railway Station and choose from three loops designed for different fitness levels. Whether you’re someone who cycles a bit on weekends or someone who genuinely loves getting the legs going for a full day, there’s a route that suits. Along the way you can stop for refreshments, take a swim at Lough Owel or Lough Ennell, and explore the historic sites and inviting villages that dot the routes.
One option follows the Royal Canal Greenway, a 130-145 km off-road trail that traces the historic Royal Canal from Maynooth to the River Shannon at Cloondara, passing through counties Kildare, Meath, and Westmeath. It’s also part of the Dublin-Galway Greenway and EuroVelo EV2. The other follows the Old Rail Greenway to Athlone, a 43-kilometre route through the Westmeath countryside.
Your base is the Royal Canal Harbour Hub, which has free parking, toilets, showers, and a solid range of bikes - electric, hybrid, kids’ bikes, tandems, child seats, and trailers. Helmets and hi-viz jackets are included for adults and children. Groups of up to 20 people can book.
Mullingar is about an hour from Dublin by train, which makes this a straightforward day trip from the capital without needing a car. The Intercity service from Heuston Station runs regularly and drops you close to the bike hire starting point. Check Irish Rail timetables and book ahead if you’re travelling on a summer weekend.
Lough Owel and Lough Ennell are two of the loveliest lakes in the midlands and both are accessible from the cycling routes. Lough Owel in particular has clean water and good spots for a swim on a warm day. It’s a brown-water lake - that’s the natural tannins from the bogland, not pollution - so don’t let the colour put you off. Locals swim there regularly.
The electric bikes are worth considering even if you’re reasonably fit. The midlands aren’t dramatic mountain terrain, but a few of the loops have gentle inclines that add up over a full day. An electric bike means you arrive back to base feeling like you’ve enjoyed a cycle rather than survived one, and you can always turn the assist down if you want more of a workout.
The Royal Canal Greenway is off-road, which means you’re on dedicated trail surface rather than sharing roads with cars for most of the route. It’s well maintained and signed. Take the detailed route maps with you regardless - they show the interesting stops along the way, including heritage sites and food stops.
Food and drink aren’t included, so either pack a picnic or plan for a stop in one of the villages along the route. There are pubs and small cafes in the villages on the Old Rail Greenway route to Athlone. Mullingar itself has a good main street with several options if you want to fuel up before setting off.