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CLANE
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Clane
Claonadh

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 01 / 06
Claonadh · Co. Kildare

Two miles from a Jesuit school. Three from a rebel's grave.

Clane is a north Kildare town of eight thousand people that carries more history per acre than most places three times its size. In a two-kilometre radius you have a medieval Franciscan friary, the site of the opening shots of the 1798 Rebellion, and the Jesuit boarding school where James Joyce spent his first unhappy years away from home. That is not a small hand to be dealt.

The Joyce connection is the one that travels furthest. Clongowes Wood College — three kilometres north on the R408 — is where Joyce arrived as a six-year-old in September 1888 and left, abruptly, three years later when his father's finances collapsed. The first forty pages of A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man are set there: the cold showers, the infirmary, the corridor, the pandying of the hands. Every Jesuit school in Ireland claims Joyce. This one actually had him. The campus is private; you cannot walk in on a whim. But you can drive out and stand at the gate and understand why a child's memory of the place lasted a lifetime.

Bodenstown is the other anchor. Theobald Wolfe Tone — barrister, revolutionary, founding theorist of Irish republicanism — is buried in a graveyard six kilometres south of town, in the flat Kildare countryside near Sallins. He died in 1798, the same year United Irishmen rebels clashed with yeomen forces on Coiseanna Hill here in Clane, in one of the first engagements of that rebellion. Since 1873, people have been marching to Bodenstown to lay wreaths and make speeches. Since 1922, there have been rival marches — the republican movement having split, and then split again. Every June Sunday, Sinn Féin, Republican Sinn Féin, the various socialist republican groupings, each march on a different day, each claiming Tone as theirs. As political spectacle it is unmatched in Ireland.

What you get in between the history is a working commuter town with a hotel that means business, a GAA club that won the county championship in 1997, a river walk that rewards an early morning, and a population that has roughly doubled since the millennium without losing its sense of itself. Clane is not somewhere you come for a weekend of relaxation. You come because the connections — literary, revolutionary, ecclesiastical — are genuinely worth the detour from the motorway.

Population
8,152
Pubs
4and counting
Walk score
Town in 15 minutes; Bodenstown 25-min drive
Founded
Monastery c. 520 AD; Franciscan Friary 1258
Coords
53.2900° N, 6.6900° W
01 / 10

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 10

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Tommy Conneff's Bar

Mixed, sociable
Hotel bar, Westgrove Hotel

Named for the Kildare man who held the world mile record in the 1890s. The bar inside the Westgrove does the job: a proper pint, a comfortable seat, and a crowd that runs from conference delegates to locals who have decided the hotel bar suits them fine.

The Laurels

Local, no-nonsense
Traditional pub, Main Street

A Main Street pub that does what a Main Street pub should do. The GAA is on the television, the pints are correctly poured, and nobody is going to try to sell you a cocktail. The lamb burger has defenders.

Oak Bar

Relaxed, food-focused
Hotel bar & restaurant, Westgrove Hotel

Breakfast, lunch and dinner from the Westgrove kitchen. More restaurant than pub, but the bar is there if you want it. Good option if you are staying at the hotel and cannot face going out.

03 / 10

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Kirby Restaurant Hotel restaurant, Westgrove Hotel €€€ The main dining room at the Westgrove. Reviews are consistently decent — nothing that will reorder your understanding of food, but a reliable dinner with Irish-leaning ingredients and a kitchen that takes it seriously.
The Laurels Pub food €€ Honest pub food on Main Street. The lamb burger comes up in reviews more than anything else on the menu. Worth noting.
AnTea-Que Coffee Shop Cafe The town cafe. Coffee, sandwiches, the kind of place that fills up mid-morning with people who know each other. Not somewhere you plan; somewhere you end up when you need a coffee.
04 / 10

Where to sleep.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Westgrove Hotel 4-star hotel 96 rooms in the middle of Clane. Pool, gym, conference centre, the works. The hotel is the main accommodation anchor in town and it earns its four stars without fuss. Ten minutes from the M4. If you are doing Bodenstown or Clongowes in a day, this is where you stay.
The Laurels B&B Rooms above the pub on Main Street. Not fancy, but central and cheap. The kind of option that suits people who want a bed, a breakfast, and a short walk to wherever they are going.
Self-catering near Sallins Self-catering Airbnb stock in the wider Clane-Sallins area is reasonable. If you are planning around the Bodenstown commemoration, book well in advance — June weekends fill up with people who have driven from Cork and Belfast for the march.
05 / 10

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

The cold that lasted a lifetime

Joyce at Clongowes

James Joyce arrived at Clongowes Wood College on 1 September 1888, six years old, and stayed until 1891 when his father John Stanislaus Joyce — charming, improvident, permanently in debt — could no longer afford the fees. The boy's memory of the place was precise and unforgiving: the cold showers before dawn, the smell of the urinals, the unfair pandying of the hands by Father Dolan, the boy Wells shouldering Stephen into the square ditch. All of it went into the opening of A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man, which Joyce began in 1907 and published in 1916. The real Father Dolan — Father Daly — was confronted by the real Rector after the real incident, and the real Rector laughed it off. In the novel, the boy Stephen takes his complaint to the Rector and is vindicated. The wish fulfillment of a six-year-old, preserved in amber for a century.

The grave they all want to own

Wolfe Tone and Bodenstown

Theobald Wolfe Tone was a Dublin barrister who concluded, in the early 1790s, that the only way to resolve Ireland's political situation was to separate from Britain entirely, with French assistance if necessary. He organised the United Irishmen, negotiated with the French Directorate, and led an invasion force to Bantry Bay in 1796 that was dispersed by storms. He tried again in 1798, was captured off Donegal, and died in a Dublin prison — by his own hand, or so the official account runs — in November of that year. He was buried at Bodenstown, six kilometres south of Clane. The first commemoration at his grave was held in 1873. They have continued, with occasional gaps, ever since. Since 1922, when the republican movement split over the Treaty, there have been rival marches on rival Sundays, each faction claiming Tone as the true ancestor. The Sunday nearest his birthday — 20 June — is the busiest. Politicians deliver speeches, bands play, wreaths are laid. It is a fixture of the Irish political calendar unlike any other.

The rebellion begins here

The Battle of Clane, 1798

The 1798 Rebellion in Kildare opened on Coiseanna Hill, near what is now the Woods Centre in Clane, on 24 May 1798. United Irishmen rebels, badly armed and imperfectly organised, engaged Richard Griffith's yeomanry force and were routed. The survivors fled toward Timahoe to join other north Kildare insurgents. It was the first engagement of what became, in Wexford especially, a serious military campaign. In Kildare, the rebellion was suppressed within weeks. The coordinates of that first skirmish — a low hill on the edge of a modern shopping development — are easy to miss. The event is harder to forget if you know it happened.

"Hortus Angelorum" — the garden of angels

The Franciscans at Clane

Gerald FitzMaurice FitzGerald founded the Franciscan Friary at Clane in 1258 — one of the earliest mendicant foundations in Ireland. The friars called it Hortus Angelorum, the garden of angels. It hosted a major Franciscan chapter in 1345. Gerald FitzMaurice himself was buried within its walls in 1259. Henry VIII dissolved it in 1542 and distributed the property — church, cemetery, chapter-house, dormitory, kitchen, orchard and all — to three Englishmen for £177. A small community of friars returned in 1647 and was finally dispersed by 1650. The Abbey Cemetery, where the friary stood, is still there. The remains are modest — fragments of medieval stonework integrated into a community centre — but the site has been continuously sacred for seven hundred years, which is not nothing.

06 / 10

Music, by day of the week.

Schedules drift. This is roughly right. The real answer is "ask in the first pub you find."

Fri
Westgrove Hotel — check listings for live acts
Sat
Tommy Conneff's Bar — occasional live music; check the hotel calendar
07 / 10

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Liffeyside Nature Park The River Liffey runs through Clane before it turns industrial east of Leixlip. The nature park follows the bank and is at its best in early morning. Flat, easy, and largely free of other people before nine.
2–4 kmdistance
45 min–1.5 hourstime
Bodenstown Graveyard Wolfe Tone's grave is in a rural graveyard off the R407, south of Clane toward Sallins. You can park and walk in any day of the year. On Bodenstown Sunday in June, the road is closed and the march comes from Sallins station. Outside of that, it is quiet — flat Kildare farmland, an old graveyard, the stone tomb with the bronze relief. Worth the five minutes from town.
3 km return from Sallinsdistance
45 min walk from Sallins; 5 min drive from Clanetime
Clongowes Wood drive-by Clongowes Wood College is a working school and does not admit casual visitors. Drive north on the R408, pull in at the gate, and look up the avenue at the castle and playing fields. That is the view Joyce would have had arriving by pony trap in September 1888. The castle is 13th century. The school has been here since 1814.
N/A — gate view onlydistance
10 min from Clanetime
Pale Ditch walk (Rathmore) The ditches and earthworks north of Clane are remnants of the Pale — the medieval boundary separating the English-administered territories from Gaelic Ireland. Walk the field edges north of town in spring or autumn and you can pick out the lines. Local knowledge helps; ask at the hotel.
4 kmdistance
1.5 hourstime
08 / 10

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

The Liffey walks are at their best. Clongowes is in term time — the school is visible and the grounds have their proper life.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

June is the month. Bodenstown Sunday draws every republican faction in Ireland to a graveyard six kilometres from town. Go if you want to understand Irish politics from the outside in. The commemoration is a genuine spectacle — bands, speeches, rival factions maintaining careful distance from each other. Nothing else like it.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep–Oct

Clongowes goes back into session in September — the same month Joyce arrived in 1888. The Liffey path is good in autumn light.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

A working town in winter. Perfectly functional, not especially atmospheric. The hotel is open and warm. Bodenstown is empty and honest in the rain.

◐ Mind yourself
09 / 10

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Expecting to walk inside Clongowes

It is a private boarding school. The gate is as far as you go without an invitation. The literary pilgrimage is real; the access is not.

×
The K Club as a day out

The K Club is ten kilometres away, hosted the 2006 Ryder Cup, and charges accordingly for everything. If you are a golfer with a specific reason to be there, fine. If you are visiting Clane for its history, the K Club is a different country.

×
Driving to Bodenstown without checking the date

On Bodenstown Sunday in June the road is closed and the car parks are organised by the marching organisations. Any other day you park freely and have the graveyard to yourself. Both experiences are worthwhile; they are entirely different.

×
Confusing Clane's size for its significance

Eight thousand people. A retail park. A commuter-belt population that works mostly in Dublin. None of that is what Clane is about. The history is real and it is specific. Come for that.

+

Getting there.

By car

Dublin to Clane is 35 km — 40 minutes on the M4 to Junction 5 (Maynooth), then south on the R407. From Naas it is 10 minutes north on the R407. From Maynooth, 15 minutes south.

By bus

Go-Ahead Ireland routes 120/120a/120b run from Dublin city centre to Clane via Maynooth several times daily. Journey time from Dublin is approximately 55 minutes. Service also connects to Edenderry westbound.

By train

No train station in Clane. Sallins & Naas station is 6 km south — served by Iarnród Éireann trains from Heuston to Kildare and Thurles. Taxi from Sallins to Clane takes 8 minutes.

By air

Dublin Airport is 45 km — 50 minutes in normal traffic on the M50 and M4.