County Laois Ireland · Co. Laois · Vicarstown Save · Share
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VICARSTOWN
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Vicarstown
Baile an Bhiocáire, Co. Laois

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 07 / 07
Baile an Bhiocáire · Co. Laois

A dot on the Barrow Line. One pub, a boat-hire base, a school built by a landlord's widow, and the only parkrun in Laois. Most people who come here arrive by water.

Vicarstown is a village that exists because of the canal, and would be even quieter without it. Its Irish name, Baile an Bhiocáire, means 'town of the vicar'. It stands where the R427 crosses the Grand Canal, on the stretch called the Barrow Line, and most people who come here on purpose come by water.

The reason the canal runs through at all is Henry Grattan. The orator was voted £50,000 by the Irish Parliament in 1782, used it to buy nearly four thousand acres around here, and the Barrow Line was cut through the Moyanna estate shortly after. What it left behind is a small, plain, honest place: stone canal stores on the bank, a national school dated 1868, a Catholic church, a community hall, a GAA field, and one pub. That is close to the whole inventory, and it is enough.

Come for the water and the flatness. Hire a barge from Barrowline Cruisers and steer it yourself, walk or cycle the towpath toward Athy or Monasterevin, fish the reeds, or run the only parkrun in County Laois on a Saturday morning. Then have a pint in the Vicarstown Inn and watch the light go off the canal. No postcards. No fuss. That is the offer, and it is made plainly.

Population
A small canal village (a few hundred)
Founded
Grew with the Barrow Line of the Grand Canal, finished early 1790s
Coords
53.0517° N, 7.0836° W
01 / 07

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 07

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

The Vicarstown Inn

Quiet, canalside
Pub, on the canal bank

The last pub left in the village, right on the Grand Canal with a green and parking opposite. Cold drinks, local character, conversation that happens by accident. Good for people who came by boat and want to stay that way. Do not expect a kitchen or a crowd; expect the canal and a fire.

03 / 07

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Four thousand acres and a waterway

Henry Grattan's canal

Henry Grattan, the Patriot orator who won legislative independence for the Irish Parliament in 1782, was voted £50,000 by that same parliament as a gift. He spent much of it on land - nearly four thousand acres in the Vicarstown area, bought from the Cosby family of Stradbally. When the Barrow Line of the Grand Canal was driven south from Lowtown to Athy in the early 1790s, its route ran straight through the Moyanna estate he had acquired. The village grew up at the crossing point. The stone canal stores on the bank are what is left of the working waterway that gave the place its reason to be.

Erected by Mrs Grattan Bellew, 1868

The school the landlord built

Vicarstown National School is a long single-storey building dated 1868 and designed by the architect Charles Geoghegan. The stone over the door spells out who paid for it: it records that the male and female national schools were erected by Mrs Grattan Bellew for the education of the children of her tenants. It is a small, telling piece of nineteenth-century estate paternalism set down in a canal village - the Grattan name still on the stone, a century after Henry Grattan bought the land.

Grand Canal Bank, Saturdays at 9:30

The only parkrun in Laois

For a village this size to hold the single parkrun in the entire county is a small point of pride. The free weekly five-kilometre run sets off along the Grand Canal bank every Saturday morning - flat, traffic-free, water on one side. There is a junior version too. On a still morning it is the busiest the towpath gets all week, and then it empties again and the canal goes back to itself.

04 / 07

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Barrow Line towpath: Vicarstown to Monasterevin Flat towpath north along the Grand Canal. Reed banks, water on one side, midlands farmland the other. One end starts at the village green, the other at the market town. Easy underfoot, quiet the whole way.
12 km one waydistance
3 hourstime
Barrow Line towpath: Vicarstown to Athy South along the canal to where the Barrow Line meets the river at Athy. Still flat, still quiet, the canal a touch wider in places. By Athy you will have thought about nothing in particular for most of it, which is the point.
16 km one waydistance
4 hourstime
Canal bank from the inn Walk the towpath in either direction from the Vicarstown Inn. Watch the water, watch the barges come through the bridge. A short, level loop that shows how little a place needs to say to feel complete.
3-5 km out-and-backdistance
1 hourtime
Vicarstown parkrun route The marked parkrun course runs along the Grand Canal Bank. You can walk or run it any day; the timed event is Saturday at 9:30. Flat, hard path, no traffic. The only parkrun in County Laois.
5 kmdistance
30-50 minutestime
05 / 07

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

The towpath dries out, the reeds green up, and the boat-hire season gets going. Good light along the water and almost nobody about.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

The best time on the canal. Barges moving through, long evenings, the inn busiest. If you want to hire a boat from Barrowline Cruisers, book ahead for the summer weeks.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

Low autumn light on still water, fewer boats, the towpath at its most peaceful. A good walking month before the wet sets in.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

The towpath can be muddy and the days are short. The inn keeps going and the parkrun runs in most weathers, but there is little else to do once the boats are off the water.

◐ Mind yourself
06 / 07

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Expecting a town

Vicarstown is a canal hamlet, not a village with a main street of shops. One pub, a church, a school, a hall, a boat base. If you arrive expecting cafes and a square you will be disappointed; arrive expecting flat water and quiet and you will not.

×
Looking for a castle or a big heritage site

There is no ruined abbey or castle to tick off here. The heritage is the canal itself - the stores, the bridge, the school, the line Grattan's land made possible. Read the place as a working waterway and it rewards you. Treat it as a sightseeing stop and it will feel empty.

×
Driving in just to drive out

The point of Vicarstown is to slow down - walk a section of towpath, take a boat out, sit by the water. If you only pull in off the R427, take a photo of the bridge and leave, you have missed the entire thing.

+

Getting there.

By car

Vicarstown is on the R427, which crosses the Grand Canal in the village. Portlaoise is about 25 minutes west, Stradbally is the nearest sizeable village to the southwest, and Athy is roughly 20 minutes south.

By bus

There is no regular bus stop in the village itself. Local Link covers the rural routes around Laois and the larger towns; check current timetables. In practice most visitors arrive by car or by boat.

By train

The nearest stations are Portlaoise (on the Dublin to Cork line, about 25 minutes by car) and Athy (on the Dublin to Waterford line, about 20 minutes south). Monasterevin station is a similar distance north.

By air

Dublin Airport is about 1 hour 30 minutes by road. But if you are flying in to see a canal village, you may be thinking about this the wrong way round.