Béal Átha Mór · Co. Tipperary
A tower house on the old road to Munster. The same family has it back.
Ballaghmore is a crossroads on the old road to Munster. The village takes its name from the castle, and the castle takes its name from the road - Bealach Mór, the Great Passage. For centuries, anyone moving cattle, armies or commerce from the south had to pass through here, and the MacGiollaphadraig chieftains made sure they knew it.
The tower house they built around 1480 is five storeys of cut stone, largely intact, and available to sleep in. Grace Pym bought it in 1990 - she's a direct descendant of the original MacGiollaphadraig line, a detail that would be unbelievable in a novel - and spent the next thirty-plus years restoring it by hand. The Cromwellians knocked chunks off it in 1647. She put them back. The castle now takes exclusive hire bookings: your group, the whole building, thirty acres around it, a banqueting hall with a log fire, a great hall at the top. Contact is through castleballaghmore.com.
There's not much else here. A handful of houses, the M7 humming in the distance where the old N7 used to carry everything. Roscrea is eight kilometres west and has shops, pubs, a round tower, a castle of its own. Ballaghmore is a destination, not a base - you come for the tower house, you stay in the tower house, and you leave having slept somewhere that was old before Cromwell was born.